92 3.0 fuel injectors leaking - rebuild help

jburke232 · 11-08-2009, 11:45 PM

I searched but couldnt find the exact answer I was lookin for.

I have a '92 3.0 and the injectors are leaking under the intake. I think I have found all the nice little parts to rebuild and reseal the injectors, but I cant seem to find those 8 little gaskets for the connectors on the fuel pipes. Anyone have any suggestions on where to find them. I was able to locate parts to replace all the upper and lower o-rings and grommets on the injectors themselves along with the 2 gaskets for the EGR and the one for the intake chamber, but I cant find the tiny fuel rail ones.

I need to rebuild and reseal this before I have a ball of smoke and flames. Your help is greatly appreciated.

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DJ99 · 11-09-2009, 05:42 AM

A guy on ebay sells the entire set with new filters and pintle caps for $26 bucks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-...Q5fAccessories

bugs1961 · 11-09-2009, 05:45 PM

The dealer has them or can order them. Here is the part number: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_198...MDEA_2211.html

jburke232 · 11-11-2009, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bugs1961

The dealer has them or can order them. Here is the part number: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_198...MDEA_2211.html

Now thats a nice site! Too bad there isnt a way to buy the parts at the prices shown, definitely cheaper than the dealership by quite a bit.

pwd · 11-11-2009, 02:32 PM

Try this on for size: http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/

Thats where I order my parts from and it saves me money even ordering from Canada and paying extra shipping/tax.

harrywat · 11-11-2009, 08:35 PM

You might consider sending your injectors to witchhunter.com. Bugs tipped me off to him a while back. He charges $19 per injector to pre-test and record the results, then checks the coils, cleans about three times or more if needed and returns them with all new seals, grommets, o-rings, screens and tip guards installed and ready to go back in. Mailing cost about $10 each way, USPS, Priority mail. I mailed mine from MS to WA on 10/22/09 and got them back on 10/30/09.

One other thing to do is pressure test the injector installation for leaks before installing the air chamber, the FSM gives the procedure.

In fact, you could do the pressure test after removing the air chamber to see the leak you now have. Just make sure all the fuel lines are reconnected.

My pre-test showed over 4% difference in flow rate, or whatever its called and my post- test was less than 1%. He sends an excel chart back with the injectors showing those results.

Thanks
Harry

jburke232 · 11-14-2009, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrywat

You might consider sending your injectors to witchhunter.com. Bugs tipped me off to him a while back. He charges $19 per injector to pre-test and record the results, then checks the coils, cleans about three times or more if needed and returns them with all new seals, grommets, o-rings, screens and tip guards installed and ready to go back in. Mailing cost about $10 each way, USPS, Priority mail. I mailed mine from MS to WA on 10/22/09 and got them back on 10/30/09.

One other thing to do is pressure test the injector installation for leaks before installing the air chamber, the FSM gives the procedure.

In fact, you could do the pressure test after removing the air chamber to see the leak you now have. Just make sure all the fuel lines are reconnected.

My pre-test showed over 4% difference in flow rate, or whatever its called and my post- test was less than 1%. He sends an excel chart back with the injectors showing those results.

Thanks
Harry

I would love to send them out, but unfortunately I dont have the time to wait for them since my wife andI are now down to 1 vehicle. I did remove the air chamber and jumpped the fuel pump on in the diag port. After doing so I felt bad for driving it as long as I have, the leak is HUGE.

Im gonna order the kit from the guy on ebay and get this fixed myself, especially since I already have 3/4 of it torn apart.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

GenXr · 11-14-2009, 06:40 PM

X2 on witchhunter performance. They did a fast turn around for me, even when I was down to one car also. One car is a hassle, but those guys did a great job. worth every penny.

gow/Godspeed · 11-22-2009, 10:12 PM

When I did this with my truck I just removed what need to be removed to just rotate the intake plenum up. This saves you from having to remove most of the vacuum lines and the EGR. It cuts your job in half and you have less troubleshooting

jburke232 · 11-26-2009, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gow/Godspeed

When I did this with my truck I just removed what need to be removed to just rotate the intake plenum up. This saves you from having to remove most of the vacuum lines and the EGR. It cuts your job in half and you have less troubleshooting

I just did the same thing, but unfortunately I now have to replace quite a few of the vacuum lines since most of them were too hard and brittle from being 17 years old

.

Luckily most of them can be replaced with regular cut to length hose from autozone, but the vent hose from the passenger side valve cover had to be ordered from the dealership... I hate having to pay $25 for a small hose.

So now the injectors work great, thanks to the awesome kit from Mr. Injector, but now I have to fix the vacuum issues from the broken lines

bugs1961 · 11-26-2009, 07:54 PM

You can order OEM Toyota regular vacuum hose, which I have found to be much better and longer lasting than the aftermarket hose, for $1.75 or so for an 800mm piece (a little less than three feet). This is long enough to cut to fit any hose on the truck and has a painted-on white area for writing the number that the original hose had onto the new one. I bought 7 of them and replaced every hose on the truck. Order from one of the on-line dealers for a good price.

The part number is: 90999-92003

Other sizes are available but are more expensive. See this site: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_198...MDEA_1708.html

RE-RE · 11-27-2009, 01:43 PM

I got the little gaskets from napa i think they were about 3 bucks each HOWEVER they rip if they are up into the holes on the intake dry. mine kept blowing through in about 20 miles and they would leak again. So i got some syliglyde (?) and lubed them up then put them in. no leaks. it been about 10k since then and still going strong.

DJ99 · 11-27-2009, 03:02 PM

The FSM says to use gasoline to lube the fuel rail o-rings. Others say to use oil. Either way, you should wiggle them in so they don't rip. I just used some clean oil on all the injector o-rings and grommets. So far, so good.

jburke232 · 11-27-2009, 04:07 PM

Thanks everyone for your help. I just got the truck done today. Turned out to be a bigger job than I thought once you add in all the vacuum hoses I had to replace, plus hooking up the vacuum line for the brakes in the wrong spot.

Everything is working great now, no leaks and I even found and fixed a couple of vacuum leaks. Also checked my timing and found it has been sitting at 20* for who knows how long. Now Im sitting at 12* and runnin great.

I plan on doing a full rebuild towards the end of February, so I am sure Ill be back for some suggestions around that time, unless I decide to just sell it instead.

11-09-2009, 05:42 AM	#2 (permalink)
DJ99 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: SW Washington Posts: 115	A guy on ebay sells the entire set with new filters and pintle caps for $26 bucks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-...Q5fAccessories __________________ 1993 T100 3.0L V6 3VZE 4x4 (48K)

11-09-2009, 05:45 PM	#3 (permalink)
bugs1961 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 319	The dealer has them or can order them. Here is the part number: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_198...MDEA_2211.html __________________ '89 V6, 5 spd truck and '07 FJ Cruiser

11-11-2009, 02:32 PM	#5 (permalink)
pwd Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: North Bay, Ontario Posts: 263	Try this on for size: http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/ Thats where I order my parts from and it saves me money even ordering from Canada and paying extra shipping/tax. __________________ 1995 4x4 ext. cab Truck 3.0L 5-speed Bone stock, with Wab-Fab Shackles Rear Wide 6" $100 Acquired in May 07 , spent ~ $4400 on repairs so far: Paint job, parking brake cable, rad re-core, new tire winch, brake lines, fuel line, Bremo rotors, Toyota pads, new calipers (in this order), all new exhaust excluding headers 1992 4Runner 4x4 3.0L Auto Project Truck... the deeper money pit. Update Dec. 10: Undercoated and new tires. Bring it on, winter!

11-11-2009, 08:35 PM	#6 (permalink)
harrywat Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Newton, MS Posts: 31	You might consider sending your injectors to witchhunter.com. Bugs tipped me off to him a while back. He charges $19 per injector to pre-test and record the results, then checks the coils, cleans about three times or more if needed and returns them with all new seals, grommets, o-rings, screens and tip guards installed and ready to go back in. Mailing cost about $10 each way, USPS, Priority mail. I mailed mine from MS to WA on 10/22/09 and got them back on 10/30/09. One other thing to do is pressure test the injector installation for leaks before installing the air chamber, the FSM gives the procedure. In fact, you could do the pressure test after removing the air chamber to see the leak you now have. Just make sure all the fuel lines are reconnected. My pre-test showed over 4% difference in flow rate, or whatever its called and my post- test was less than 1%. He sends an excel chart back with the injectors showing those results. Thanks Harry Last edited by harrywat; 11-11-2009 at 08:37 PM.

11-14-2009, 06:40 PM	#8 (permalink)
GenXr Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Dayton, OH Posts: 596	X2 on witchhunter performance. They did a fast turn around for me, even when I was down to one car also. One car is a hassle, but those guys did a great job. worth every penny. __________________ Old Blue - 1995 Xtra Cab 4x4 Downey Header and CAI Sonoran Steel IFS brace Addicted Offroad front bumper with integrated blinkers Trail Gear rear bumper 4Crawler 1" BL, headlight relay harness CIBIE H4 conversion head lights. 91 SR5 bucket seats w/ cabela seat covers.

11-22-2009, 10:12 PM	#9 (permalink)
gow/Godspeed Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 14	Dont need EGR valve gasket When I did this with my truck I just removed what need to be removed to just rotate the intake plenum up. This saves you from having to remove most of the vacuum lines and the EGR. It cuts your job in half and you have less troubleshooting

11-26-2009, 07:54 PM	#11 (permalink)
bugs1961 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 319	You can order OEM Toyota regular vacuum hose, which I have found to be much better and longer lasting than the aftermarket hose, for $1.75 or so for an 800mm piece (a little less than three feet). This is long enough to cut to fit any hose on the truck and has a painted-on white area for writing the number that the original hose had onto the new one. I bought 7 of them and replaced every hose on the truck. Order from one of the on-line dealers for a good price. The part number is: 90999-92003 Other sizes are available but are more expensive. See this site: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_198...MDEA_1708.html __________________ '89 V6, 5 spd truck and '07 FJ Cruiser

11-27-2009, 01:43 PM	#12 (permalink)
RE-RE Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Elmore Vt Posts: 139	I got the little gaskets from napa i think they were about 3 bucks each HOWEVER they rip if they are up into the holes on the intake dry. mine kept blowing through in about 20 miles and they would leak again. So i got some syliglyde (?) and lubed them up then put them in. no leaks. it been about 10k since then and still going strong. __________________ Its all about the parts you break and the friends you make. 87 22RE fo'runner DD / 92 3VZE Excab on 35s trail rig . _________________________________________ \|\|__________________\|\|_______TOYOTA______\|\| \|\|__________________\|\|____________________\|\|

11-27-2009, 03:02 PM	#13 (permalink)
DJ99 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: SW Washington Posts: 115	The FSM says to use gasoline to lube the fuel rail o-rings. Others say to use oil. Either way, you should wiggle them in so they don't rip. I just used some clean oil on all the injector o-rings and grommets. So far, so good. __________________ 1993 T100 3.0L V6 3VZE 4x4 (48K)

11-27-2009, 04:07 PM	#14 (permalink)
jburke232 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 5	Thanks everyone for your help. I just got the truck done today. Turned out to be a bigger job than I thought once you add in all the vacuum hoses I had to replace, plus hooking up the vacuum line for the brakes in the wrong spot. Everything is working great now, no leaks and I even found and fixed a couple of vacuum leaks. Also checked my timing and found it has been sitting at 20* for who knows how long. Now Im sitting at 12* and runnin great. I plan on doing a full rebuild towards the end of February, so I am sure Ill be back for some suggestions around that time, unless I decide to just sell it instead.

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