Kosmo

Hello!

I'm having trouble with my '92 2wd Automatic trans 22re Pickup. Drove to work one morning and in the afternoon the truck wouldn't start. Towed it home. Pulled intake tube and squirted starting fluid into throttle body. Engine ran for several seconds until starter fluid was gone then quit. I suspected fuel pump was bad so went online to research removal of pump. While online several forums mentioned checking relays and MAF sensor. EFI relay tested good. Open curcuit relay tested good. Shoved screwdriver into MAF to hold door open and squirted more starter fluid then engine started and idled beautifully for 15 minutes until I turned it off. So I'm thinking fuel pump and fuel pressure is good. Tested MAF sensor with ohm meter and it checked ok (although I got VERY ERRATIC readings as I opened and closed MAF sensor door). Replaced MAF ($200!!!) I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM! Grrr... Even with new MAF, truck won't start unless I open the MAF door all the way AND squirt starting fluid. Once the engine starts it idles BEAUTIFULLY but the moment I accelerate the engine quits (unless I accelerate VERY, VERY, VERY gently, then I can hit higher RPM's). Jumpered the E1 and TE1 connectors and got a trouble code -- 2 blinks -- 4 blinks -- 3 blinks -- 1 quick blink. I'm not sure what this means. Is it a code 24 or 43 or 31? I cleared the ECU then idled engine for a while hoping to verify the codes but they haven't returned. One thought I'm having is that there seems to be a very low volume of air being "sucked" past the MAF. I'm used to carburetors where the suction on a V8 will suck your hand off and spit it out the tailpipe. I put my hand over the throttle body and the engine continues to idle with (what I think) is a small amount of air passing between my fingers. Possible vacuum leak? All small vacuum lines were replaced when motor was rebuilt a year ago. They all look good...no cracks, soft. Checked big lines (PCV, Brake Booster, etc.) and they all seem good. Don't know how to test big solid line from intake plenum to EGR other than look and listen but it seems ok. Truck's been down for two weeks now and I miss driving it! HELP!

Thanks in advance for your time and expertise!
Bob

pcmentor

About ten years ago I bought a MAF on Amazon for my 22re. Didn't need and they let me return it. I was amazed. I might check the pump wire by the tank just to be sure the 12v is not intermittent, with a test light. Pete

Kosmo

Thanks Pete. Wire tests 12v constant. Other ideas?

an1176

With the key on, in the relay box jump b+ and fp. That should turn your fuel pump on. If you can't hear anything I'm guessing fuel pump, fuse, or relay. The relay I believe is behind the glove box but not sure. The fuse is under the hood. When you jump b+ and fp for a bit see if it'll start. Good luck.

pcmentor

Hi, on my Ford Aspire I was able to dc a fuel hose to see if I had flow. I am not sure where you could do this safely on the 22re, maybe the cold start injector. I had +12v at the pump and no flow indicated a bad pump. When I had the tank down on the 22re there were a couple places to dc a fuel hose, they may be accessible without dropping the tank. I would want to eliminate the filter is not blocked. Pete

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have not looked up your codes but going by your description, I am guessing the fuel pump is weak or something similar and is unable to overcome the initial pressure to get going. I am thinking when you basically prime the system and the truck starts running that takes the pressure off for it to run on its own.

The way I test a pump is to jumper the fuel pump bypass and remove the Return Hose off of the firewall or inner fender, (depending on your truck) and see if it fills a quart jar in a minute or so. With the key on and the jumper in, that should engage the pump. It is easier then having to drop the tank and testing the pump that way.

If it is pumping fuel, might try and see if you can hold the fuel from pumping by blocking the hose off with your finger. Not an absolute test to see if you are getting the correct pressure, but if it is easily blocked, I think it could be a weak pump.

Most common failure of fuel pumps I see is running the tank on empty. The fuels helps keep the pump cool.

Kosmo

It seems like the consensus is fuel pump. I was hesitant at first because the motor idled beautifully for extended periods of time. Well I went ahead and pulled the tank and replaced the pump. FIXED!!! I guess it was working enough to get a little fuel to the fuel rails but not enough to actually accelerate. THANKS EVERYONE!
Bob