92 22re fuel pump wiring
#1
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92 22re fuel pump wiring
The truck is a 92 with the 22re. Replaced the fuel pump and when turning the ignition on I do not hear the pump prime what se ever. Have the fuel filter off as well to see if any fuel comes out the line. That is a negative. So now I'm chasing down the two wires, one is solid blue while the other is white with black stripe. Does anybody know which wire would be ground and what one is power? And what the volts should be to the wire? I have also replaced one of the two relays that would cause the pump to not prime. Any help is greatly appreciated!
-Robert
-Robert
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To test the ground, test from the pump to the frame, one wire will give you continuity (dead short or very low ohms) The other wire will give 12v when on.
Remember though that the fuel pump will only run when the AFM flap is open so you'll need a helper to test for voltage.
Remember though that the fuel pump will only run when the AFM flap is open so you'll need a helper to test for voltage.
#5
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You had the ignition on right?
The Blue wire is the + wire. With the +B and FP terminals jumped, you should have 12 volts going to the blue wire when the ignition is ON. If you do not have 12 volts, you have either a faulty EFI main relay, or a faulty "IGN" fuse, a faulty EFI fuse, or an open wire somewhere.
Check that and let me know what you find.
EDIT TO ADD... if you still don't have 12 volts at the pump with the +B and FP terminals jumped and the ignition on, check for 12 volts at the +B terminal of the DLC. If there is no voltage at the +B terminal, you have narrowed down your search to the EFI main relay, EFI fuse, or IGN fuse, or the associated wiring. You can assume at that point all the wiring to the pump is ok.
The Blue wire is the + wire. With the +B and FP terminals jumped, you should have 12 volts going to the blue wire when the ignition is ON. If you do not have 12 volts, you have either a faulty EFI main relay, or a faulty "IGN" fuse, a faulty EFI fuse, or an open wire somewhere.
Check that and let me know what you find.
EDIT TO ADD... if you still don't have 12 volts at the pump with the +B and FP terminals jumped and the ignition on, check for 12 volts at the +B terminal of the DLC. If there is no voltage at the +B terminal, you have narrowed down your search to the EFI main relay, EFI fuse, or IGN fuse, or the associated wiring. You can assume at that point all the wiring to the pump is ok.
Last edited by rustypigeon; 05-16-2011 at 11:59 AM.
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Still not getting a reading at the positive wire, efi main relay is brand new and fuses are good. When I put the volt meter on all it would do is give a screeching noise.
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Well I messed around with a couple of wires, then unplugged the main relay, efi relay, and efi fuse, then plugged them back in and I had power. Pump still doesn't prime with just ignition on though. It should though right?
#11
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This is a safety feature which makes it impossible for the fuel pump to run without the engine running. The only way to override it is to jump the +B and FP terminals in the DLC. This simply bypasses the VAM and the COR and runs power right from the EFI main relay to the pump.
Here is a wiring diagram that shows what I am talking about...
http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/2010...wiring-diagram
Last edited by rustypigeon; 05-16-2011 at 07:39 PM.
#12
on my 1994 toyota 4x4 v6 the pump dont kick in untill u turn the motor over. we thought the same thing u should here the pump kick on i even got down there and listend to. i took the line apart at the fuel filter and the gas shot right out when u turn the motor over. guy that works at toyota a buddy said those pump really dont ever go bad.
#14
I had that kind of problem with my 89. It turned out to be corrosion coming out of the EFI fuse going to the relay. The relay did not get enough power to sygnal the pump. I replaced the wire and fuse assembly going to the relay. No problems since. It sound like you might have the same with pulling the fuse and relay and putting them back in. You could not see it without the fuse out and looking. Hope this helps.
#15
fuel pump issues
I know this is an old post but I need help. Have 91 ext cab 4wd 5 speed manual 3.0. The fuel pump is def good cause I took bed off and checked it by hooking it directly up to battery. My problem is it won't pump when trying to crank the truck. I tried the jumping +b and fp and that doesn't work either. BUT if I run a wire directly from either +b or fp directly to the battery the fuel pump will work. What could be causing this? What exaclty does jumping the fp and +b bypass? Does it bypass the efi relay or open circuit relay? I've heard other ppl say different so I don't know. the truck did crank when I sprayed fuel into the throttle body so I know it's a fuel issue. Am I jumping it correctly? Will jumping work if the relay is bad?
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FP goes directly to the fuel pump, so connecting 12v to FP will make the pump run.
B+ comes FROM the EFI relay, which gets 12v from the EFI fuse, which gets it from the battery. Between B+ and FP is the COR.
So when you jumper 12v to B+, when the COR closes the fuel pump runs.
Following so far? You never tested B+ (measure voltage to ground; with key-on you should have 12v), but I'll bet your EFI fuse is open or your EFI relay is not closing. Without 12v on B+, jumpering it to FP doesn't do anything.
And lay off with jumpering 12v to connectors at random. You could end up putting 12v to something that really doesn't like it. The correct test would be to use your multimeter to check for voltage on B+.
B+ comes FROM the EFI relay, which gets 12v from the EFI fuse, which gets it from the battery. Between B+ and FP is the COR.
So when you jumper 12v to B+, when the COR closes the fuel pump runs.
Following so far? You never tested B+ (measure voltage to ground; with key-on you should have 12v), but I'll bet your EFI fuse is open or your EFI relay is not closing. Without 12v on B+, jumpering it to FP doesn't do anything.
And lay off with jumpering 12v to connectors at random. You could end up putting 12v to something that really doesn't like it. The correct test would be to use your multimeter to check for voltage on B+.
#18
FP goes directly to the fuel pump, so connecting 12v to FP will make the pump run.
B+ comes FROM the EFI relay, which gets 12v from the EFI fuse, which gets it from the battery. Between B+ and FP is the COR.
So when you jumper 12v to B+, when the COR closes the fuel pump runs.
Following so far? You never tested B+ (measure voltage to ground; with key-on you should have 12v), but I'll bet your EFI fuse is open or your EFI relay is not closing. Without 12v on B+, jumpering it to FP doesn't do anything.
And lay off with jumpering 12v to connectors at random. You could end up putting 12v to something that really doesn't like it. The correct test would be to use your multimeter to check for voltage on B+.
B+ comes FROM the EFI relay, which gets 12v from the EFI fuse, which gets it from the battery. Between B+ and FP is the COR.
So when you jumper 12v to B+, when the COR closes the fuel pump runs.
Following so far? You never tested B+ (measure voltage to ground; with key-on you should have 12v), but I'll bet your EFI fuse is open or your EFI relay is not closing. Without 12v on B+, jumpering it to FP doesn't do anything.
And lay off with jumpering 12v to connectors at random. You could end up putting 12v to something that really doesn't like it. The correct test would be to use your multimeter to check for voltage on B+.
thanks scope it's more than likely my efi relay. I'm just confused on that. If the efi relay needs to be good to jump the 2, then what is the point of jumping them? I thought the whole point of jumping them was to see if the relay was bad in the first place. If all relays were good then there would b no point in jumping because u would pretty much have ur problem narrowed down. Do u understand what I'm asking ?if a fuel pump doesrnt come on u jump everything to see if the pump itself is still good. Maybe I just got the purpose confused
#19
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thanks scope it's more than likely my efi relay. I'm just confused on that. If the efi relay needs to be good to jump the 2, then what is the point of jumping them? I thought the whole point of jumping them was to see if the relay was bad in the first place. If all relays were good then there would b no point in jumping because u would pretty much have ur problem narrowed down. Do u understand what I'm asking ?if a fuel pump doesrnt come on u jump everything to see if the pump itself is still good. Maybe I just got the purpose confused