91 Motor Problem :( (head Gasket)
01-13-2010, 09:35 AM
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91 Motor Problem :( (head Gasket)
Hey so I have a 91 toyota 4x4 3.0 vze With i think a Blown Head Gasket. It's the 6th cylinder i know that much, which is squirting out anti freeze (barely) and when i start it up it sounds fine, but then after a minute or two my whole street is a fog bank from my exhaust and under the hood. About a year or two ago, i got the R & R cylinder head Replaced. and a valve job, i got it checked for warpage, and the Cam R & R inspected. But a week ago I was driving home from work and noticed that my truck was smoking. i thought it was just from being really cold. But then the next day i started it up fine, went to the store shut it off and i tried to start it up again and it wouldnt start, chekced the oil, antifreeze, everything it could possiibly be. So i sat in it and kept trying to start it, finally after pretty much grinding the starter it started up i had my cousin follow me home luckily i was about 5 minutes from my house. The whole road behind me was smoke though from the engine hood and exhaust. Honestly all i want to know is whats going on? how do i fix it? and how much will it be? im only 19 my dad wants to sell it, and i am begging him not to. so he put me on the job of trying to get it fix, Im not the most mechanically inclined but i have 3 or 4 guys willing to help me. Thank you so much for Reading this. I hope i can get my baby back on the road so i can go wheeling.
Taryn
Taryn
01-13-2010, 10:32 AM
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Here are some directions. minus the pictures .
I've heard it's quite A job to replace ..... and doesn't last...depending how you drive I guess.
It's better to sign up on Autozone.com and add your vehicle ,then you can view the repair guide with pictures and diagrams . All free!
3VZ-E Engine
See Figures 18 through 35
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner hose and case.
Fig. Fig. 18: Exploded view of the cylinder head-3VZ-FE engine
3. Drain the engine coolant.
4. Remove the radiator.
5. Unbolt the power steering pump and position it out of the way with the hoses still attached.
6. Remove the alternator drive belt; remove the fluid coupling and fan pulley.
7. Disconnect the following wires and connectors:
Ground strap from left fender apron
Alternator connector and wire
Igniter connector
Oil pressure switch connector
Ground strap at rear of engine
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) connectors
Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) connectors
Starter relay connector (manual trans. only)
Solenoid resistor connector
The check connector
Compressor connector
8. Disconnect the following hoses:
Power steering air hoses
Brake booster hose
Cruise control vacuum hose
Charcoal canister hose at the canister
Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) vacuum hose
9. Disconnect the accelerator, throttle and cruise control cables.
10. Disconnect the clutch release (slave) cylinder hose (manual transmission only).
11. Disconnect the two heater hoses and the two fuel lines.
12. Remove the left side scuff plate (inside the left door). Disconnect the oxygen sensor. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold and at the catalytic converter. Remove the front exhaust pipe.
13. Remove the timing belt. Follow the procedure given later in this section. This is a complicated operation requiring accurate work.
14. Remove the distributor with the spark plug leads attached; position it out of the way.
15. Remove the air intake chamber as follows:
1. Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector
2. Disconnect the canister vacuum hose from the throttle body.
3. Disconnect the vacuum and fuel hoses from the pressure regulator.
4. Remove the PCV hose from the hose union.
5. Disconnect the water bypass hose from the intake manifold hose union.
6. Remove the water bypass hose from the water bypass pipe.
7. Disconnect the cold start injector connector.
8. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel filter.
9. Remove the union bolt and remove the cold start injector tube.
10. On California vehicles, disconnect the EGR temperature sensor.
11. Disconnect the EGR vacuum hoses from the air pipe and EGR vacuum modulator.
12. Remove the intake chamber support. Remove the two water hoses from the EGR valve if so equipped.
13. Remove the EGR valve with its pipes.
14. Remove the six bolts and two nuts; remove the intake air chamber.
16. Disconnect the following, then when all are released, remove the two bolts and the engine wire harness:
Knock sensor
Water temperature sensor
Cold start injector time switch connector
Water temperature sensor
Water temperature sender gauge connector
Right ground strap
Injector connectors
17. Remove the fuel pipes.
18. Remove the timing belt cover.
19. Remove the idler pulley and the timing belt cover.
20. Remove the right side fuel delivery pipe (fuel rail) with the injectors.
21. Remove the left fuel delivery pipe and the injectors.
22. Disconnect the hose and remove the water bypass outlet.
23. Remove the intake manifold.
24. Remove the knock sensor wire.
25. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
Right side:
26. Remove the reed valve with the air injection manifold.
27. Remove the water bypass pipe mounting bolt.
28. Remove the alternator.
29. Remove the right valve cover.
30. Remove the two bolts and camshaft housing rear cover. Loosen each cam bearing cap bolt a little at a time and in the correct order. When all are loose, remove the bolts and remove the camshaft along with the oil seal and housing plug.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 19: Release the camshaft retaining bolts in this order-RH shown
31. Remove the 6-point head bolt from the head first.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 20: Remove the 6 point head bolt first
32. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages, in the correct order.
WARNING
Removing the head bolts in the improper order could cause damage to the cylinder head.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 21: Remove the head bolts using this sequence in several passes
33. Lift the cylinder head off of its mounting dowels; do NOT attempt to slide it off. If the head is difficult to remove, gently pry with a small tool between the head and block projection. Take great care not to damage the mating faces of the block and/or head. Support the head on wooden blocks on the workbench.
34. Remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.
Left side:
35. Remove the alternator.
36. Remove the oil dipstick. Remove the bolt and remove the dipstick guide tube.
37. Remove the left valve cover.
38. Remove the two bolts and camshaft housing rear cover. Loosen each cam bearing cap bolt a little at a time and in the correct order. When all are loose, remove the bolts and remove the camshaft along with the oil seal and housing plug.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 22: Release the camshaft retaining bolts in this order-LH shown
39. Remove the 6 point cylinder head bolt.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 23: Left side 6 point head bolt location
40. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages, in the correct order.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 24: Remove the head bolts following this pattern in several passes
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 25: Arrange the bearing caps in the correct order
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 26: If the head is difficult to remove, gently pry with a small tool between the head and block projection
WARNING
Removing the head bolts in the improper order could cause damage to the cylinder head.
41. Lift the cylinder head off of its mounting dowels; do NOT attempt to slide it off. If the head is difficult to remove, gently pry with a small tool between the head and block projection. Take great care not to damage the mating faces of the block and/or head. Support the head on wooden blocks on the workbench.
42. Remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.
To install:
43. Lift the old gasket from the block, then scrape and clean the area well. Insert paper into the cylinder walls to keep dirt from entering.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 27: Carefully clean the top surfaces of the pistons ...
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 28: ... and the cylinder block
44. Install the cylinder head on the cylinder block using a new gasket.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 29: Position the new gaskets on the cylinder heads as shown
45. Lightly coat the threads of the cylinder head bolts with engine oil and then install them into the head. Do not install bolt 6-pointed bolt at this time. Tighten the bolts in several stages, in the order shown to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm). After the initial tightening, mark the front side of the top of the bolt with paint. Tighten the bolts an additional 90° ( 1 / 4 turn) and check that the mark is now facing the side of the head. Tighten the bolts an additional 90° and check that the mark is now facing the rear of the head.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 30: Tighten the head bolts down in several passes in this order
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 31: Mark the head of the bolt with some paint
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 32: Turn the bolts exactly 90°
46. Install the 6-pointed head bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
47. Install the camshaft. Install a new oil seal and install the camshaft housing plug.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 33: Apply sealant to the No. 1 and No. 5 bearing caps as shown
48. Apply sealant to the Nos. 1 and 5 cam bearing caps. Place the caps on each journal with the arrows correctly aligned. On the right head, they should point to the front; on the left head, to the rear.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 34: Position the caps in the correct places
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 35: Bolt tightening sequence for the camshaft bearing caps
49. Temporarily tighten the bearing cap bolts just snug, a little at a time and in the correct order.
50. Use a seal driver of the correct diameter to install the oil seal. Use the same tool to install the camshaft housing plug.
51. Tighten the bearing caps to the correct torque. Make several passes and proceed in the proper order. Correct torque is 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
52. Check the valve clearance. Intake 0.007-0.011 in. (0.18-0.28mm) and exhaust is 0.009-0.013 in. (0.22-0.32mm).
53. Install the valve covers.
54. Install the alternator and the water bypass pipe mounting bolt.
55. Install the reed valve with the injection manifold. Tighten the bolts to the cylinder head to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm); tighten the bolts to the exhaust manifold to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
56. Repeat installation for the opposite head if it was removed.
57. Install the oil dipstick tube.
58. Install the crossover pipe and tighten it to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
59. Connect the oxygen sensor wire.
60. Install the intake manifold with new gaskets and tighten the mounting bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
61. Install the water bypass outlet and tighten the two bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
62. Install the fuel delivery pipes and injectors. Tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm)
63. Install the idler pulley. Install the timing belt covers and tighten the bolts to 74 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
64. Install the remaining timing belt cover.
65. Install the fuel pipes and tighten the union bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
66. Install the timing belt.
67. Check and adjust the valve clearance.
68. Install the cylinder head covers. Apply sealant to the head in the locations shown.
69. Install the engine wire harness and secure the two bolts.
70. Attach the wires and connectors removed:
Knock sensor
Water temperature sensor
Cold start injector time switch connector
Water temperature sender gauge connector
Right ground strap
Injector connectors
71. Install the air intake chamber and tighten the nuts and bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
72. Install the EGR valve and connect all hoses and lines. Install and tighten the bolts and nuts correctly.
A-9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm)
B-13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
C-22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm)
73. Install the distributor and spark plug wires.
74. Install the front exhaust pipe, using new gaskets. Connect the oxygen sensor and replace the left sill plate.
75. Connect the fuel lines and heater hoses.
76. Connect the clutch release (slave) cylinder hose (manual trans. only.)
77. Install the power steering pump.
78. Connect the throttle control cable (auto. trans.), cruise control cable and the accelerator cable.
79. Connect the hoses detached:
Power steering air hoses
Brake booster hose
Cruise control vacuum hose
Charcoal canister hose at the canister
Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) vacuum hose
80. Attach the wires and connectors detached:
Ground strap from left fender apron
Alternator connector and wire
Igniter connector
Oil pressure switch connector
Ground strap at rear of engine
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) connectors
Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) connectors
Starter relay connector (manual trans. only)
Solenoid resistor connector
The check connector
Compressor connector
81. Install the fan pulley, fluid coupling and drive belts.
82. Install and adjust the air conditioning belt.
83. Install the power steering belt and adjust it.
84. Install the radiator.
85. Install the air cleaner case and hose.
86. Refill the engine with coolant.
87. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
88. Connect the battery cable. Start the engine, allowing it to warm up at idle. Check carefully for leaks.
89. Check and adjust engine specifications as necessary.
90. Road test the vehicle for general performance and driveability.
91. Check and adjust fluid levels.
I've heard it's quite A job to replace ..... and doesn't last...depending how you drive I guess.
It's better to sign up on Autozone.com and add your vehicle ,then you can view the repair guide with pictures and diagrams . All free!
3VZ-E Engine
See Figures 18 through 35
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner hose and case.
Fig. Fig. 18: Exploded view of the cylinder head-3VZ-FE engine
3. Drain the engine coolant.
4. Remove the radiator.
5. Unbolt the power steering pump and position it out of the way with the hoses still attached.
6. Remove the alternator drive belt; remove the fluid coupling and fan pulley.
7. Disconnect the following wires and connectors:
Ground strap from left fender apron
Alternator connector and wire
Igniter connector
Oil pressure switch connector
Ground strap at rear of engine
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) connectors
Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) connectors
Starter relay connector (manual trans. only)
Solenoid resistor connector
The check connector
Compressor connector
8. Disconnect the following hoses:
Power steering air hoses
Brake booster hose
Cruise control vacuum hose
Charcoal canister hose at the canister
Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) vacuum hose
9. Disconnect the accelerator, throttle and cruise control cables.
10. Disconnect the clutch release (slave) cylinder hose (manual transmission only).
11. Disconnect the two heater hoses and the two fuel lines.
12. Remove the left side scuff plate (inside the left door). Disconnect the oxygen sensor. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold and at the catalytic converter. Remove the front exhaust pipe.
13. Remove the timing belt. Follow the procedure given later in this section. This is a complicated operation requiring accurate work.
14. Remove the distributor with the spark plug leads attached; position it out of the way.
15. Remove the air intake chamber as follows:
1. Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector
2. Disconnect the canister vacuum hose from the throttle body.
3. Disconnect the vacuum and fuel hoses from the pressure regulator.
4. Remove the PCV hose from the hose union.
5. Disconnect the water bypass hose from the intake manifold hose union.
6. Remove the water bypass hose from the water bypass pipe.
7. Disconnect the cold start injector connector.
8. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel filter.
9. Remove the union bolt and remove the cold start injector tube.
10. On California vehicles, disconnect the EGR temperature sensor.
11. Disconnect the EGR vacuum hoses from the air pipe and EGR vacuum modulator.
12. Remove the intake chamber support. Remove the two water hoses from the EGR valve if so equipped.
13. Remove the EGR valve with its pipes.
14. Remove the six bolts and two nuts; remove the intake air chamber.
16. Disconnect the following, then when all are released, remove the two bolts and the engine wire harness:
Knock sensor
Water temperature sensor
Cold start injector time switch connector
Water temperature sensor
Water temperature sender gauge connector
Right ground strap
Injector connectors
17. Remove the fuel pipes.
18. Remove the timing belt cover.
19. Remove the idler pulley and the timing belt cover.
20. Remove the right side fuel delivery pipe (fuel rail) with the injectors.
21. Remove the left fuel delivery pipe and the injectors.
22. Disconnect the hose and remove the water bypass outlet.
23. Remove the intake manifold.
24. Remove the knock sensor wire.
25. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
Right side:
26. Remove the reed valve with the air injection manifold.
27. Remove the water bypass pipe mounting bolt.
28. Remove the alternator.
29. Remove the right valve cover.
30. Remove the two bolts and camshaft housing rear cover. Loosen each cam bearing cap bolt a little at a time and in the correct order. When all are loose, remove the bolts and remove the camshaft along with the oil seal and housing plug.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 19: Release the camshaft retaining bolts in this order-RH shown
31. Remove the 6-point head bolt from the head first.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 20: Remove the 6 point head bolt first
32. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages, in the correct order.
WARNING
Removing the head bolts in the improper order could cause damage to the cylinder head.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 21: Remove the head bolts using this sequence in several passes
33. Lift the cylinder head off of its mounting dowels; do NOT attempt to slide it off. If the head is difficult to remove, gently pry with a small tool between the head and block projection. Take great care not to damage the mating faces of the block and/or head. Support the head on wooden blocks on the workbench.
34. Remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.
Left side:
35. Remove the alternator.
36. Remove the oil dipstick. Remove the bolt and remove the dipstick guide tube.
37. Remove the left valve cover.
38. Remove the two bolts and camshaft housing rear cover. Loosen each cam bearing cap bolt a little at a time and in the correct order. When all are loose, remove the bolts and remove the camshaft along with the oil seal and housing plug.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 22: Release the camshaft retaining bolts in this order-LH shown
39. Remove the 6 point cylinder head bolt.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 23: Left side 6 point head bolt location
40. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages, in the correct order.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 24: Remove the head bolts following this pattern in several passes
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 25: Arrange the bearing caps in the correct order
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 26: If the head is difficult to remove, gently pry with a small tool between the head and block projection
WARNING
Removing the head bolts in the improper order could cause damage to the cylinder head.
41. Lift the cylinder head off of its mounting dowels; do NOT attempt to slide it off. If the head is difficult to remove, gently pry with a small tool between the head and block projection. Take great care not to damage the mating faces of the block and/or head. Support the head on wooden blocks on the workbench.
42. Remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.
To install:
43. Lift the old gasket from the block, then scrape and clean the area well. Insert paper into the cylinder walls to keep dirt from entering.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 27: Carefully clean the top surfaces of the pistons ...
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 28: ... and the cylinder block
44. Install the cylinder head on the cylinder block using a new gasket.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 29: Position the new gaskets on the cylinder heads as shown
45. Lightly coat the threads of the cylinder head bolts with engine oil and then install them into the head. Do not install bolt 6-pointed bolt at this time. Tighten the bolts in several stages, in the order shown to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm). After the initial tightening, mark the front side of the top of the bolt with paint. Tighten the bolts an additional 90° ( 1 / 4 turn) and check that the mark is now facing the side of the head. Tighten the bolts an additional 90° and check that the mark is now facing the rear of the head.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 30: Tighten the head bolts down in several passes in this order
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 31: Mark the head of the bolt with some paint
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 32: Turn the bolts exactly 90°
46. Install the 6-pointed head bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
47. Install the camshaft. Install a new oil seal and install the camshaft housing plug.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 33: Apply sealant to the No. 1 and No. 5 bearing caps as shown
48. Apply sealant to the Nos. 1 and 5 cam bearing caps. Place the caps on each journal with the arrows correctly aligned. On the right head, they should point to the front; on the left head, to the rear.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 34: Position the caps in the correct places
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 35: Bolt tightening sequence for the camshaft bearing caps
49. Temporarily tighten the bearing cap bolts just snug, a little at a time and in the correct order.
50. Use a seal driver of the correct diameter to install the oil seal. Use the same tool to install the camshaft housing plug.
51. Tighten the bearing caps to the correct torque. Make several passes and proceed in the proper order. Correct torque is 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
52. Check the valve clearance. Intake 0.007-0.011 in. (0.18-0.28mm) and exhaust is 0.009-0.013 in. (0.22-0.32mm).
53. Install the valve covers.
54. Install the alternator and the water bypass pipe mounting bolt.
55. Install the reed valve with the injection manifold. Tighten the bolts to the cylinder head to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm); tighten the bolts to the exhaust manifold to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
56. Repeat installation for the opposite head if it was removed.
57. Install the oil dipstick tube.
58. Install the crossover pipe and tighten it to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
59. Connect the oxygen sensor wire.
60. Install the intake manifold with new gaskets and tighten the mounting bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
61. Install the water bypass outlet and tighten the two bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
62. Install the fuel delivery pipes and injectors. Tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm)
63. Install the idler pulley. Install the timing belt covers and tighten the bolts to 74 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
64. Install the remaining timing belt cover.
65. Install the fuel pipes and tighten the union bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
66. Install the timing belt.
67. Check and adjust the valve clearance.
68. Install the cylinder head covers. Apply sealant to the head in the locations shown.
69. Install the engine wire harness and secure the two bolts.
70. Attach the wires and connectors removed:
Knock sensor
Water temperature sensor
Cold start injector time switch connector
Water temperature sender gauge connector
Right ground strap
Injector connectors
71. Install the air intake chamber and tighten the nuts and bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
72. Install the EGR valve and connect all hoses and lines. Install and tighten the bolts and nuts correctly.
A-9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm)
B-13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
C-22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm)
73. Install the distributor and spark plug wires.
74. Install the front exhaust pipe, using new gaskets. Connect the oxygen sensor and replace the left sill plate.
75. Connect the fuel lines and heater hoses.
76. Connect the clutch release (slave) cylinder hose (manual trans. only.)
77. Install the power steering pump.
78. Connect the throttle control cable (auto. trans.), cruise control cable and the accelerator cable.
79. Connect the hoses detached:
Power steering air hoses
Brake booster hose
Cruise control vacuum hose
Charcoal canister hose at the canister
Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) vacuum hose
80. Attach the wires and connectors detached:
Ground strap from left fender apron
Alternator connector and wire
Igniter connector
Oil pressure switch connector
Ground strap at rear of engine
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) connectors
Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) connectors
Starter relay connector (manual trans. only)
Solenoid resistor connector
The check connector
Compressor connector
81. Install the fan pulley, fluid coupling and drive belts.
82. Install and adjust the air conditioning belt.
83. Install the power steering belt and adjust it.
84. Install the radiator.
85. Install the air cleaner case and hose.
86. Refill the engine with coolant.
87. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
88. Connect the battery cable. Start the engine, allowing it to warm up at idle. Check carefully for leaks.
89. Check and adjust engine specifications as necessary.
90. Road test the vehicle for general performance and driveability.
91. Check and adjust fluid levels.
01-14-2010, 07:23 AM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 268
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Before you do anything else, call up the Toyota dealer with your VIN to see if it's in the head gasket replacement program, and whether it has already been done. You might be in luck, and the dealer will fix it for free. Otherwise,
If you or your buds have never worked on cars before, you might think twice about undertaking this one. If you have no tools, you should be ready to fork up several hundred $$$ for tools and parts for this job.
For a first-timer to do this, you can expect to spend at least a week, and probably much longer, depending on how fast you work and how many unexpected hitches you run into. You WILL run into problems that you can't solve by yourself, and you'll surely be posting repeatedly to the forums here. You'll also need another ride for repeated trips to AutoZone and the dealer for little bits you couldn't anticipate.
If it were a 4 cylinder, I'd think it a good project to get your hands dirty with, but the 3VZE really is a b***h.
If, after all these warnings, you decide to proceed, I wish you the best of luck!
If you or your buds have never worked on cars before, you might think twice about undertaking this one. If you have no tools, you should be ready to fork up several hundred $$$ for tools and parts for this job.
For a first-timer to do this, you can expect to spend at least a week, and probably much longer, depending on how fast you work and how many unexpected hitches you run into. You WILL run into problems that you can't solve by yourself, and you'll surely be posting repeatedly to the forums here. You'll also need another ride for repeated trips to AutoZone and the dealer for little bits you couldn't anticipate.
If it were a 4 cylinder, I'd think it a good project to get your hands dirty with, but the 3VZE really is a b***h.
If, after all these warnings, you decide to proceed, I wish you the best of luck!
01-20-2010, 09:03 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Eugene Oregon
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Thanks. i understand we have all the tools it is just going to be a pain in my butt to do it. I work full time i dont have the time. Im driving my dad's car. its just a really difficult situation. thank you for your input. I just want to figure out if it is possible. i mean i drove it off the street into the shop the other day, and when i put it in reverse i had to feather the gas pedal to even get it going. then it smoked out my backyard. I cant get rid of it though. its my first car. besides the 1979 toyota celica 5 speed 20r i had for about a week lol. I wanted a truck. Could it be a cracked head?? and a Head gasket?? im just really confused about what it is. But in my mind I can not sell it. I will put the money into it if i have to. It's my Boy. my nickname is t and its license plate is Rex. Were T rex haha.. Thank you though.. Does anyone have an idea about what else it could be how hard is a motor swap. from the 3vze to the 22re?? automatic to 5 speed. I just want a manual and my truck. lol Thanks again..
But for now No wheeling. My Yota will be sitting.
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01-22-2010, 07:41 AM
#8
Registered User
As mentioned above, call the dealer with your VIN. There was a recall on the head gaskets for the 3.0. You might get lucky and the dealer will do it for you.
01-25-2012, 11:53 AM
#11
Registered User
Did mine over Christmas on my 3vze. Not that bad, just alot of work. One thing to consider...you said there was earlier engine work done...perhaps they used HG that needed re-torquing? This forum saved my butt on that.
I actually bought 3 sets of HG's The first one was off ebay, then RockAuto, finally Toyota MLS. For the buck I would go with the factory MLS and get your head checked/milled.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123.../?ref=esp-link
I used this forum for all of my work...even printed out some of the threads and had them handy in the garage!
I actually bought 3 sets of HG's The first one was off ebay, then RockAuto, finally Toyota MLS. For the buck I would go with the factory MLS and get your head checked/milled.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123.../?ref=esp-link
I used this forum for all of my work...even printed out some of the threads and had them handy in the garage!
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Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
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07-06-2015 01:20 PM
