91 IFS Front End Rebuild
#1
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91 IFS Front End Rebuild
I've been searching this subject quite a bit here on YotaTech, and I've learned quite a bit. I've got that "clunk" sound, mainly from the driver's side, and I've been wanting to ask what would be causing that sound. From searching, I think I've narrowed that down to control arm bushings.
The thing is, if I'm gonna replace those, I may as well replace a few other parts under there that I'm sure are worn out as well. First off, I'm gonna replace the CV axles for sure. The driver's side axle is missing the boot closest to the hub, and I have NO IDEA how long it has been gone, so I'm replacing both axles. Also, I figure I'll go ahead and replace both the upper and lower ball joints on both sides as well, since the front end will be torn apart anyway, lol!!! Also, I was wondering if I should replace anything else while I'm under there, and if so, what would it be?
As far as parts go, several threads I've read here have people ordering OEM parts as replacements, and MOOG seems to be a really popular choice as well. A quick search on AdvancedAuto's website lists CV axle assemblies by ToughOne and USA Industries. Does anyone have advice on these brands, or should I go with OEM, or something other than that?
I was thinking Poly Performance for the bushings, but some people seem to prefer the rubber OEM type better. Any advice on those parts?
I'm just wondering if those parts brands are the general preference, or if there is something new/better that's come along. Thanks for any help/advice!!!
The thing is, if I'm gonna replace those, I may as well replace a few other parts under there that I'm sure are worn out as well. First off, I'm gonna replace the CV axles for sure. The driver's side axle is missing the boot closest to the hub, and I have NO IDEA how long it has been gone, so I'm replacing both axles. Also, I figure I'll go ahead and replace both the upper and lower ball joints on both sides as well, since the front end will be torn apart anyway, lol!!! Also, I was wondering if I should replace anything else while I'm under there, and if so, what would it be?
As far as parts go, several threads I've read here have people ordering OEM parts as replacements, and MOOG seems to be a really popular choice as well. A quick search on AdvancedAuto's website lists CV axle assemblies by ToughOne and USA Industries. Does anyone have advice on these brands, or should I go with OEM, or something other than that?
I was thinking Poly Performance for the bushings, but some people seem to prefer the rubber OEM type better. Any advice on those parts?
I'm just wondering if those parts brands are the general preference, or if there is something new/better that's come along. Thanks for any help/advice!!!
#2
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I personally would get OEM ball joints.. The ones on my new truck have lasted 220,XXX or so I think slightly more expensive but I have a piece of mind I also recommend inspecting and repackaging your wheel bearings..
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#3
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Thanks for the advice StewsRunner. I'll call the Yota place here in town and see what prices I can get on the ball joints. Good point on the wheel bearings too, didn't think about those!!!
#5
Just get new CV boots (From Toy, The ones from Rockauto are good), You will need both inside and out, Not that hard to replace It just takes some time and patience.
Unless you see serious scaring damage from wear there is no need to buy new CV axel assembly.
Unless you see serious scaring damage from wear there is no need to buy new CV axel assembly.
#6
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#7
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http://www.raxles.com/ are good OEM quality axles if you have damage for cheaper than dealership.
Rockford CV boots are the best available. Toyota are better.
Poly bushings are firmer than rubber. They also tend to squeak. And you have to keep the metal parts of the bushings which usually means burning off the old rubber ones... Poly makes the most sense if you're running substantially larger than stock tires.
The rubber lasted the first 20 years however.
The Raybestos professional line are often the same parts/suppliers as OEM/Toyota uses.
In addition to suspension, you might also want to look at your steering components too. What kind of clunk are you having.
Rockford CV boots are the best available. Toyota are better.
Poly bushings are firmer than rubber. They also tend to squeak. And you have to keep the metal parts of the bushings which usually means burning off the old rubber ones... Poly makes the most sense if you're running substantially larger than stock tires.
The rubber lasted the first 20 years however.
The Raybestos professional line are often the same parts/suppliers as OEM/Toyota uses.
In addition to suspension, you might also want to look at your steering components too. What kind of clunk are you having.
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#8
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Thanks for the info and the link RSR, I'll definitely check it out. I'd thought about poly bushings, but I think I may pass if they tend to squeak a lot, that would drive me crazy, lol!!! The truck is 22 years old, so the factory rubber could very well be shot.
The "clunk" I'm having is when I hit a bump, kinda like a "dead" shock. I'm also gonna check those out, but figured since I'll probably be tearing into the front end anyway, I may as well knock out the bushings too. I think I've decided on the Rough Country 4-5" lift kit anyway, so I'll definitely be tearing the front end apart if I go that route.
Thanks again for the info and advice!!!
The "clunk" I'm having is when I hit a bump, kinda like a "dead" shock. I'm also gonna check those out, but figured since I'll probably be tearing into the front end anyway, I may as well knock out the bushings too. I think I've decided on the Rough Country 4-5" lift kit anyway, so I'll definitely be tearing the front end apart if I go that route.
Thanks again for the info and advice!!!
#9
Registered User
That clunk might be your wheel travel hitting your bump stops... Or it could be your anti-sway bar bushing on end link or frame to sway bar connection. Both are easy fixes as well. There are poly bump stops somewhere that 1/2 the thickness of stock. Probably ideal for offroading only vehicles already not running sway bars however. If a lot of time at highway speeds with tight turns, I'd leave the sway bars and bump stops as is...
#10
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the info RSR, I'll look into those areas as well once I get everything ready. I don't think it would be wheel travel bump stops though, as I've noticed the sound at very slow speeds on moderately bumpy gravel roads.
#11
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With that further description, I'd take a look at sway bar frame bushings first.
If any looseness/play in steering, it could be your idler arm too. Micro movements woudl be felt. That noise would be heard to passenger front though.
If any looseness/play in steering, it could be your idler arm too. Micro movements woudl be felt. That noise would be heard to passenger front though.
#12
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Thread Starter
Appreciate the added info RSR, thanks man!!! Hopefully I'll be able to narrow it down soon. I haven't actually been driving the truck since I bought it (one reason I haven't been posting about it) because I've been dealing with the DMV and waiting on my plates. As soon as I get those I'll be driving it daily, so hopefully I can start working out some of the kinks!!!
#13
Registered User
Cool beans. My first project on mine was fully rebuilding my steering, including sway bushings, and replacing the shocks.
I prioritized safety stuff and got it all done. Currently working through my reliability list, including in that the maintenance stuff that affects MPGs and adequate power as it relates to ensuring my vehicle is safe to be on the highways with sufficient power at high speeds (restoring to near original performance I guess), etc. And next will be optional mods that contribute to the aforementioned safety and reliability, but are playing in the margins. And lastly, I'll worry about performance stuff that costs serious $ (do some of low cost stuff that's a couple bucks to add to necessary parts orders and doesn't otherwise affect shipping). Doing some free performance improvers occasionally but not a priority... My biggest performance mod will be a 3.4 swap.
Basically, my outlook is it's a 20 year old truck and will be closer to or at 25 by the time I have it fully rebuilt to where I'm content, so there's going to be a lot of stuff needing replaced anyways...
I prioritized safety stuff and got it all done. Currently working through my reliability list, including in that the maintenance stuff that affects MPGs and adequate power as it relates to ensuring my vehicle is safe to be on the highways with sufficient power at high speeds (restoring to near original performance I guess), etc. And next will be optional mods that contribute to the aforementioned safety and reliability, but are playing in the margins. And lastly, I'll worry about performance stuff that costs serious $ (do some of low cost stuff that's a couple bucks to add to necessary parts orders and doesn't otherwise affect shipping). Doing some free performance improvers occasionally but not a priority... My biggest performance mod will be a 3.4 swap.
Basically, my outlook is it's a 20 year old truck and will be closer to or at 25 by the time I have it fully rebuilt to where I'm content, so there's going to be a lot of stuff needing replaced anyways...
Last edited by RSR; 08-11-2013 at 07:42 PM.
#15
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Thread Starter
That clunk might be your wheel travel hitting your bump stops... Or it could be your anti-sway bar bushing on end link or frame to sway bar connection. Both are easy fixes as well. There are poly bump stops somewhere that 1/2 the thickness of stock. Probably ideal for offroading only vehicles already not running sway bars however. If a lot of time at highway speeds with tight turns, I'd leave the sway bars and bump stops as is...
After all the "tweaking" I felt comfortable doing, I took my pickup to the Yota dealer today and had a front end alignment done. While it was there, they went thru the truck to make up a list of any deficiencies they could find, as I'd explained to them that I'd just bought the truck and was in the process of getting it whipped into shape.
Two things were reported to be making that "clunking" noise I'd been hearing. One was the sway-bar end-link was broken (You called it RSR!!!), the other is a bushing on the front diff/driver's side that is totally shot. The shop manager said that after these two fixes, my noise should disappear.
So, as soon as I'm able, I'm gonna get those two items fixed, plus a speedo cable. Once I get all that taken care of, the "fun" can begin!!!
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