Originally Posted by Daytona675
Thanks for the link... I still dont see why the cam's need to come out though. I guess I will see as I get deeper into the motor.
Yeah, when you find that some of the head bolts are under the cam you'll see indeed.
Here's a tool you can make to help you get those sprockets off:
You'll also need leverage on that bolt - like a pipe extension over a 1/2" breaker bar and a six point socket. I personally don't like using impact tools on internal engine parts.
You'll want new cam seals, of course. And you absolutely should adjust the valves once the heads & cams are back on. My exhaust valve clearances tend to tighten up over time, and if yours do too, they could stop closing fully, leading of course to burnt valves.
Don't forget to replace the knock sensor pigtail while you're in there. It dries and cracks and can short, causing the computer to have a canary until you fix it.
If you were able to get the block resurfaced, along with the heads, you could use mls gaskets and have much less likelihood of them going again.