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'91 4runner 22r to 22re swap engine running problems

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Old 12-21-2009, 04:00 PM
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'91 4runner 22r to 22re swap engine running problems

So here goes. I hydro locked my 91 4runner and a week later i blew cylinder number 4. simple solution: found a 85 22r and swap in into the 90 4runner. I have been having a few problems now that its all swapped over and in the truck now. I swapped the fuel injection components onto the 22r and put it all back together. Everything is all plugged back in and i have taken it for a few test drives.
I took it for a drive when i first put it in and it had plenty of power and it just seemed to idle to high (about 2300rpms). I let it sit for a week or so and now i am having power issues. The engine is running fine (minus the intake knocking under full throttle) but it seems to have almose ZERO power. What is wrong here? I went from a high idle problem to now a no power issue? WTF?!?!?! Everything seems to be plugged in (minus a little grey wire clip with two little prongs and another electrical clip which i cant find...) Its not the knock sensor though i got that one. I need some help here guys!!!
Old 12-22-2009, 10:12 PM
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So, uh, what is it?
You hydraulic locked the 91 and put an 85 engine in a 90?

Is the 90 the same as the 91?
Old 12-23-2009, 06:52 AM
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Meant to say 91 4runner. I'm having some power issues now. I took the throttle body off last night and I have it all cleaned up now. I think I need to check the fuel pressure tonight and the plugs even though there new.
Old 12-24-2009, 11:03 AM
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I recently cleanned out the throttle body and intake manifold. I just got back from the shop and it is stil running ty... When in idle motor sounds fine. When I rev the engine I can go about half throttle and everything seems ok but when i open the throttle all open it really bogs down. GRRRR... I dont know what is causing this. I adjusted the TPS sensor all the way counter clockwise and it did adjust the idle down a little more which is at about 1200 rpms now. I definately need some help here. Thanks guys for viewing! I just dont know where to begin...
Old 12-24-2009, 11:08 AM
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Any trouble codes?
Old 12-24-2009, 12:45 PM
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Bogging down when you open the throttle up and idle dropping when you rotate the TPS, sounds like you're leaning out. No backfires? Checked for vacuum leaks? What is your timing at (with the jumper installed in the diag port)? All the valves adjusted properly? Exhaust / converter plugged up?
Old 01-03-2010, 01:40 PM
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Just tested fotr codes and got a '24' and '31.' 24 is a Intake Air Temp Senson Signal and 31 is Volume Air flow Meter Signal. Any advice on how to fix those? Im gonna do some research here on the forum and see if I cant figure anything out. Some help would be sweet though!!!
Old 08-07-2012, 03:05 PM
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UPDATE!!!!!!!
I am so close to being done and I have fixed all of my major problems. My three major problems after the swap were:
1. Mass air flow meter (top of airbox sensor thingy) was not rteaponding properly. If you cut the silicone off the top and remove the cover you can turn the flapper door which should DUMP fuel into the injectors. Basically you should hear a change in the engine rpm's and well... mine wasn't. I treied the ECU first but that didnt change anything. So found a new (junkyard haha) one and when I moved the flapper door it was working properly.
2. After doing a small tune up (spark plugs, oil change, filters etc...) I found out that my number three spark plug was SILICONED in the hole. Apparently there was a heli-coil fix kit already installed but when I took the spark plug out of the hole (three years ago) last time the thread repair kit came with the spark plug and i used to be an idiot and just thought silicone was the answer (before and now i am slightly more mechanically inclined). Bought the heli-coil repair kit put the thread sleve on a new spark plug (with a little jb-weld on the side) ran it in and WHAMMMY! Good to go!
3. Also found out that for some damned reason my timing chain skipped two teeth. Partially because im an idiot and i didnt quite know what i was doing three years ago and because i didnt get TDC right on. easy fix though. Pop the valve cover off. Take the bolt out that holds the sprocket for the timing chain. CAREFULLY wedge a small piece of wood against the 'tensioner' because there is PLASTIC in there... Got the chain to skip two teeth and it took me about an hour and a half.

Now I am just trying to locate my sensor WIRE for the coolant guage because apparently its missing. I am also looking for the right wire for my oil pressure sensor. I have the end of the wire that plugs onto the sensor but theres another plug somewhere that is supposed to plug into this wire. (the wire is yellow with a black tracer line).
Just thought i would update this thread Thanks guys!!! hit me up for any more questions or details on this rebuild!!!
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