805yoda

So this problem came up about 2 weeks ago and I've been with out a truck ever since.
I woke up one morning and had to take my girl to work and just happend to be late. Well I started the truck, idled fine, as soon as I went to give it gas( in gear) It started bogging, got about a block away and decided with prior Toyota problems, it wasnt something I wanted to risk driving with. Well I got back to it after borrowing the parents car.... And it popped up with trouble codes 13,14,43,71.
So I looked em up and attempted to start fixing problems. Well I started checking wiring and I seemed to find some wiring that was jurrey rigged by the previous owner, I fixed then and before I decided to hear shrink them I wanted to see if it fixed anything, it started up fine! Drive about 3 miles, shut it off for about 20 mins, started right back up and drive perfectly home. So I hear shrinks them and cleaned up the harness. This is the harness leading to the MAFS btw. Well I tryed to start it after and the problem appeared again...!! -.- So I went back to checking codes and the same popped up. Obviously I went back to the wires I first touched to make sure it wasn't that beause that would make a little more sense right? Guess not.
Soooo...
I'm just going to go through everything that I've fixed to give you and idea what I've gone through so far, and I swear I've checked everything, but I know there's more.

I checked the wirring I touched leading to the Coil/MAFS everything seemed fine, I check both plugs to make sure nothing was pulled out not any more opens/shorts maybe.. Nothing. So I moved on, cleaned and swapped the MAFS, cleaned/swapped the coil/igniter to see if it went back since that was a code, I cleaned all plugs, plug wires, distro cap, rotor, distro and even swapped the distro beause I have extras of alot. I've swapped a few motors hehe... I check the TPS as well, unplugged it, tested it, made sure it hasn't moved since I had done the swap into this truck, btw it is about 4 months old. So everything there seemed okay. I checked ALL FUSES AND decided to swap all relays I had extra at hand because I didn't know to much about testing them an turned out I had and extra engine bay fuse box full. So all those should be good. I even swapped the key/electrical part of the ignition on the collum, had to do a little soldering for the plug but i got a newer one in. Everything should be plugged in right also so I moved towards the fuel source - checked/swapped the fuel pressure regulator, made sure of no leaks anywhere, my fuel pump has to be working because I had pressure in my fuel rail twice after swapping the regulator and swapping my cold start sensor too. Swapped the fuel filter.
I check the ERG to make sure the diaphragm was working, it seemed all was good, I looked at all the vacuum lines to see if I saw any cracks and such beause I couldn't keep it running long enough to really test em. Didnt find anything noticeable by eye.
So after all this I decided to reset the computer and unplug the battery. I tryed to start it, only wanted to run for a few seconds again, I unplugged the tps, tryed again. Same thing. I unplugged the cold start Injector and tryed starting it a couple times, nothing. But when I plugged it back in, it ran a few seconds longer when I got it started, maybe that had something to do with this? This is when I swapped the sensor btw, sorry for being out of order. So I reset the ECU again an checked the codes, only (CODE 14) popped up so I got rid of some of the problems??
I've got oil, got gas, got spark. What else do I need...!!?? Please I need help. Depressing not having a vehicle lol... If anyone lists something I've done ill obviously state it and will continue to keep the post alive with further accomplishment of it running fine again.. Thanks for reading my long rediculous post, any help is appreciated, thanks again everyone!!

RJR

Code 14 tells you that the ECU is not getting the IGF signal back from the ignitor. When that happens the ECU assumes there is no spark and shuts down the injectors to avoid flooding the engine. It will run for a short time on the gas from the CSI, but once that's gone the engine dies.

Figure out why the signal is getting lost from the ignitor and you should make some progress.

805yoda

So I tryed testing for the IGF signal and I wasn't getting a signal with the scope my dad and I were using, I even bought one of those igniter testers off eBay and I couldn't get it to show me 2 blinking LEDs, so I figured it was a bad igniter, I bought one off amazon after being told it was the wrong part number I returned it and got the right part number for 60 more bucks and got the same exact looking one back... But from a different dealer, anyways, I tryed them both and they performed worse than the old one.... Didnt even want to run for a couple seconds, so now I'm on the CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY because I believe for some reason I did the tests wrong with the igniter that was in my truck, idk I'm so frustrated because I can't fix this dam problem and I even have my mom willing to help me out with these expensive parts as long as I get the right one.... So back to the circuit opening relay, I did the resistance tests and they all came out about 10-25 ohms over the correct ratings and I didn't see any movement for the infinity terminals. Any help on this or any other ideas on the igniter??? Thanks for the reply by the way!

scope103

To test the COR you bypass it completely. Connect FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector; with key-on the fuel pump starts and runs immediately. If that solves your problem, you probably have a problem in the VAF-COR circuit.

But that doesn't explain code 14. As RJR explains, code 14 would explain your symptoms. But you can at least rule out a problem with the COR.

bswarm

You're supposed to work from the smallest code first and work your way up if it checks out ok. Anyone have the flow chart for the codes?

decalman

What i would do

1. Check the air intake tube. The rubber elbow sometimes cracks from underneath and can cause your symptom.

2. Check your ground cables. You should at least have one from the battery to the body and one from the firewall to the engine.

3. Check your flow meter plug.

805yoda

So I bypassed the two terminals and I heard the fuel pump running obviously, but I still ended up with the same thing, runs for 3 seconds or less and it dies... So just because my resistance tests were a little bit over what is rated it is still working because of the bypass test I did?
Sorry I'm not to good with relays nor resistance either, I look to my dad for answers about that but he's been real busy with work for the past few months or I'd probably be driving by now...

805yoda

The rubber elbow your talking about is off the intake box closest to the coil correct? The only elbow I saw? It was in decent shape, I checked my grounds, they were good, because of boredom I even hooked up an extra ground for both and tried them and no difference, and the MAF plug is the same for the flow meter correct? I checked that one and everything seems to be in order...? Any other advice guys!!??

805yoda

BTW in my first reply I ment I checked for the IGT signal not IGF. Sorry for the confusion...

805yoda

Btw I have bought new plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and have installed, no difference either. But I figured why not...

805yoda

Does anyone else have an idea??

bswarm

Unclip the air filter and reach in with your fingers and see if the air flow door moves easily.

scope103

He already checked the COR circuit, so that should rule out a problem with the VAF (at least one that would prevent starting).

It still sounds like a code 14 problem. If it isn't an obvious wiring problem at the igniter, it could very likely be a bad igniter. Unfortunately, I don't know an easy way to test the igniter, but you might be able to test it with an oscilloscope.

RJR

I don't see anywhere that you've verified that the IGF signal is actually getting to the ECU. In fact, we know it isn't, because "no IGF" is what causes code 14. Replacing the igniter is one troubleshooting step, but the first thing I would have done is verified continuity between the igniter and the ECU on the IGF and IGT lines. Also check for a short on those lines to ground. Takes less than 5 minutes with a multimeter and will tell you accurately what you want to know. If that checks out you'll have to look further, but that test is so easy there's absolutely no reason not to do it.

The FSM lists these possible causes for a code 14. Notice which one is first...
• Open or short in IGF or IGT
circuit from igniter to ECM
• Igniter
• ECM

Also notice that not listed are the VAFM, the COR, the rotor, the cap, spark plugs, a vacuum leak, etc. Exhaust the possibilities on the IGF/IGT lines before you look further afield.

805yoda

Thanks for your guy's replys! I did check the igniter with the "igniter tester unit"
And with a scope. Me and my dad coulnd get the proper signal to come out of the IGT with my old igniter and the two new igniters I got off amazon... I got them off amazon because they were 100-200 dollars cheaper than oreillys.. But they still didnt seem to work, actually performed worse than my old igniter, didnt even run the truck for a couple seconds like the old one did!.. So I even tested a friend of mines igniter off of his truck that worked perfectly fine and I got the same result as the stock igniter on my truck. Then we put it back on his truck and his truck ran perfect!! So I really don't believe that it's the igniter. I'm seriously stumped and hesitating to call a mechanic over here because of how much thought and time and parts I've put into this dam motor.... I have rebuilt about 5 22re motors so I have a pretty good idea with what parts go where and so on an so forth, just not so good with electrical... Even though my dad is a electrician... So I still would like some more idea's guy please, everything helps , at least to get my mind rolling again day after day since I'm so stumped on all this!!!.. Thanks again guys!!!

805yoda

Thanks again on the replys, I did check continuity on all the wires for the ifniter plug to the ECU. I was a little confused going from a black and orange stripe wire to black and brownish stripe wire for the NE signal wire, didnt get that one right, but everything else was good, no opens or shorts, I have a power probe thanks to my dad so when it comes to shorts or opens or checking continuity it makes it fairly easy..! I don't quite understand what your saying in the last part of your message, can u explain more?

""Also notice that not listed are the VAFM, the COR, the rotor, the cap, spark plugs, a vacuum leak, etc. Exhaust the possibilities on the IGF/IGT lines before you look further afield."" ???? I feel a bit retarded because I know what all these are, just don't know what your getting at? Haha

RJR

Just that, while all of those things can have a lot to do with how well your engine runs, they have nothing to do with code 14, and yet you, and the other members of this forum, have spent a lot of time working on those issues. If you're going to solve the code 14 issue, you need to stick to the relevant part of the system until you figure it out. Code 14 involves 3 components.
- the igniter
- the ECU
- the wires connecting the two.
That's it.

Let's review a bit:
- If you clear the codes, what do you have to do to make the code 14 come back?
- Do you have spark at the plugs when you turn the engine over with the starter?
- You said the engine runs for a few seconds when you try to start it. Is this still true?
- Is there +12V on the red wire at the igniter?
- Can you detect an IGT signal on the black/white wire at the igniter while the engine is cranking/running briefly? If not, what is the voltage at the igniter on that wire?
- Can you detect an IGF signal on the black wire at the igniter while the engine is cranking/running briefly? Can you detect it at the ECU? If not, what is the voltage on that wire?

Note: Detecting the pulses on the IGT/IGF wires is difficult without an oscilloscope or some sort of pulse detector like a noid light. Those are tools that I have, but most non-electronic folks won't. Not sure how to advise you there.

The igniter/ECU interface is simple - it should be pretty easy to figure this out. If nothing else make sense, it may be a faulty ECU, even though that's rare.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Ok You tell us the wiring is good between igniter and ECU !!

You tried a good igniter of the same part number that when swapped back worked fine

If these above statements are true only one thing else it could be .

At anytime in your poking and prodding did you cause any sparks??

Did you have much rain ??

Did your ECU get hit Get wet or get system voltage where it was not supposed to be.

You may have spent extra money on a tune up before finding the problem.

scope103

One thing to remember about code 14 is that it is not immediate; the ECU doesn't throw the code (and then shut off the injectors) until the IGF signal is missing for "6 consecutive ignitions" http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf. So the truck will start and run for at least 6 revolutions until the injectors quit, and then probably a few more revolutions on the left-over rich mixture. That's why I'm pretty sure your problem is in the IGF signal, because your symptoms fit so well!

I agree with RJR that ECU failures are rare, but I suppose it could happen. Me, I would carefully repeat your wire tracing to check for opens and shorts; you've replaced the igniter with a known-good one, so that really leaves the connectors as the most likely culprit. You said you used a scope; try checking for IGF right AT the ECU (this isn't too tough; the signal you're looking for is about 5v and less than 100Hz, so you don't need a fancy oscilloscope to see it).

Also, you could have an intermittent open; the wires will trace out okay at rest, but once you start running they jiggle "open." Try to get a helper to nudge the wires (gently!) at the igniter while you're watching the meter.

If you can see the IGF signal but still get the code, I'd swap the computer next.

805yoda

Can someone please take a picture of a newer 22re igniter plug, say 90's and up, but the female side, from the wirring harness, I want to make sure for some reason I didn't put the wires back in the plug wrong after I cleaned it. So please make sure I can tell which order and the color coding if you happen to be able to take a pic... Thanks guys!!!