jharriet

Going to post this here because my other thread is littered with nonsense by myself.
My 4 runner WILL NOT take fuel. i assumed it was a fuel pump issue but after taking it out and running it off the battery it works fine, i reinstalled it along with a new fuel filter. The truck will IDLE while i have the fuel pump hooked up to 12v ( has a wireing issue ) but it will only idle roughly and die when gas is applied. any ideas on what this may be? i was thinking injectors but i dont want to tear it apart until i get a second opinion.

jharriet

So nobody has had this problem before?

abecedarian

vacuum / other leaks in the intake
occluded fuel return line, VAFM or TPS issue.

jharriet

Ill change out the tps, but ive already changed the afm with two seperate used ones. I dont believe there is a vaccum leak but ill check again to make sure that the return fuel line is ok. In the diagnosis box under the hood, when i jump the b+ to the fp, the fuel pump still doesnt work. There is 0.2v

jharriet

Im having a fuse box issue or something. Ive heard of people running the 22re off of as little as 4 wires, was wondering how i would go about this. I could just run all new wires and save me a huge pain in the ass!

jharriet

The 15a efi fuse blows instantly when i turn the truck over. Along with one of the fuses under the dash. Even i i could just get by with rewireing the efi. Everything else seems to be working fine. Does anybody know were to start?

scope103

Hmm. If throwing a switch in the kitchen blew a fuse, would I look in the bedroom?

Where does the EFI fuse go? It powers the ECM, and through the EFI relay to the COR to the Fuel pump. B+ in the diagnostic port comes through the EFI relay (which is why the key has to be on to run the fuel pump from there.) If you're getting only 0.2v at B+ (your posting is mal-formed, so I can't say for sure), your EFI relay may be shot, or the wiring to/through it.

You also suggest that turning the key blows "one of the fuses under the dash." I'll bet knowing which fuse you're blowing would be an important clue to what is wrong.

You've probably got one or two wiring problems. If you look for them (rather than changing parts at random), I'll bet you can fix them and you'll have a great truck. Or, you could try manually re-wiring the ECM to run off "as few as four wires" and you'll have just another Frankenstein shoot-box truck

jharriet

At this point im just frustrated with the wireing wich someone has tampered with most of before me. The fuse under the dash is said to be the radio, or so im told from searching other threads. Its the bottom row, closest to the door.


I have switched the efi relay with another one that seems to be the same. Still no difference. Haveing the motor run on 4 wires or less is someone elses words not mine. This is my first toyota so i dont know much about them, just what im reading.

Does anyone have a color-coded wireing diagram for the under hood fuse box. If such a thing exists.

jharriet

Also if there is any information you need so you could make a educated assumption please ask.

scope103

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/powersou.pdf

If you really believe someone has "tampered with most of the wiring," your chance of getting it to run is not too good. If you test the EFI relay by replacing it with one that "seems to be the same," your chance of getting it to run is even poorer.

I've provided a link that will get you to the manual (it's for a '94, but there are insignificant differences from your truck). Use a multimeter and the manual to test the EFI relay. Use the multimeter to test the inputs and outputs of the relay. Tracing the power to the fuel pump is just not that hard, and you've obviously got a problem there. It's not going to run until you get that fixed.

When you were trying to run it by direct-powering the fuel pump, did you check the timing? (With a timing light, not "by ear.") There are a lot of simple things to check before you have to replace any parts.

Good luck.