Ballen

3 V Z E motor 245,7??
where is the coolent temp switch ?

ok before my timmeing problems my truck ran fine a little miss.
BUT now well it runs the miss is worse and it bogs when i press the gas pedal past a certian point (maybe 1/4 )let off and runs better.
I can still get up to speed but can not pass or step on the gas to get any power ,i have to down shift and gradually pick up speed again.


replaced the water pump, front oil seal,crank gear (I broke it),new belt ,new radiator, and got a used TPS now it stays running at idle, before not so much.
Anybody that has had this issue of bogging and has solved it please tell me how.
It seems like it gets way to much fuel or maybe not enough but smells rich. replaced plugs but am sure they are black by now .

Ballen

no one, no ideas??last time you guys helped a lot with my timeing ,thought you would have input on this also

Gamefreakgc

Coolant temperature sensor is on the back side of the engine on the water bypass. It should be a green (sometimes gray/black) sensor. It's a little hard to get to, you might have to remove a coolant hose first.

There are three sensors in the back. From left to right they are Cold Start Injector Switch, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature Switch (sends info to your gauge on the dash). They cost ~$20. Put some RTV sealant on the top few threads before putting the new one in (if that's really your issue).

Did this issue come up right after changing the TPS? If you didn't adjust it right, it could be getting the air/fuel mixture all wrong. See the link below on how to do it.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf

Ballen

Thanks for the responce.

well had it tested and the code came up for the coolent temp sensor.
I do not have an ohm meter. any other options. unemployed and can not just go and buy a meter.
and yes the TPS was bad according to the shop. replaced it and it will idle not rel smooth but it does idle and stay running ,befor i changed theTPS it would not stay runnning with it pluged in.

Gamefreakgc

Multi-meters are $10 at Harbor Freight. You can also get them at any auto shop or home improvement store. You'll find it's a very handy tool to have.

I'm guessing your shop didn't adjust the TPS when they put it on so it may be good to check it.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

HF store locator, HF meter 3$ You'll also need a feeler guage to do the TPS adjustments

You can almost gather that in a couch or car seats, if you have to take a hat and dance a jig out front of the store

Those are definatly cheaper than any shop price. Considering my small town mechanic doesn't charge for things that take less time than it does to fill out a reciept, YMMV.

Ballen

no ,I put on the tps , and i have to say as far as harbor freight not one within 50 miles .will have to see about advanced auto there only 28 miles away.and my small town doesn't even have a mechanic shop.just 2 gas stations/liquer stores a food/beer store and a diner

bone collector

Is there any codes?? I would start there first before throwing parts at it

bone collector

my guess is the cold start injector is stuck on or the TPS or afm are out of adjustment

Ballen

ya I got codes 6 of them bad boys. one was tps 1 was 02 sensor.1 was coolent temp sensor can't remember the rest but am getting o2 and coolent sensor next week then will have it retested.how do i clear the old codes. I tried removeing the battrey but that does not work.and from what i understand they all affect how much fuel gets sent to the throtle body.

bone collector

pull the efi fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay. wait 30 seconds and put it back in. Definitely change o2 sensor, and coolant sensor then adjust the TPS. and check the rest of the codes

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Ha, sorry about that I didn't even notice that store was over in Dover.

Removing the postive cable should work just fine, but the fuse is easier. Keep in mind, if it's cold out you might need to wait abit longer than normal.

Ballen

thank you all I will be clearing the codes on sunday and then back to the shop and get retested .but am still going to change the 02 and coolent temp sensors.

will let you know on monday

Ballen

well got the meter going to try and adjust the TPS tomarrow. what does (d)mean by: until the ohm– meter deflects, (deflects)

(d) Gradually turn the sensor clockwise until the ohm–
meter deflects, and secure the sensor with the two
screws.
(e) Using a thickness gauge, recheck the continuity be–
tween terminals IDL and E2.
Clearance between
lever and stop screw Continuity (IDL–E2)
0.50 mm (0.020 in.)
0.80 mm (0.031 in.) No continuity
Continuity
ENGINE – MFI SYSTEM
EG2–242

Ballen

Hello, anybody ,answer to the above question. And what is the best way to remove the 2 nuts holding the o2 sensor in place ?Man those things are on there and looks like may be rounded a little , enough to seem like 2 different sizes
and does anybody know what size they are so i can replace them?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Deflects, ie the analog meter needle moves. for a digital meter it's the same "reading changes". Basicly in case it's not clear, You are looking for when the circuit goes from open(off) to closed(on).

Not sure off hand pretty much everything is 10 or 12mm. Use lots of lube over a bit of time and don't drive it between lubes or you burn off and bake on the lube which is counter productive. When all else fails my goto is the Big monkey wrench.

Ballen

Ok ,so for the digital meter the numbers keep changeing . got it

no room for the BAW Big A__ wrench. of course since the o2 is bad I could just break or cut off the top and maybe able to get a B A W on it that way . thanks

Gamefreakgc

12 mm. Just did an O2 change on mine.

Spray them with PB blaster or some sort of liquid wrench and let it soak (not WB40 though, doesn't work). You could even drive it as usual then soak again (heat allows it to penetrate). If that doesn't work, I've heard of people having to torch it off.

Also, with a digital meter it'll go from reading "1" to something like "0.01" or whatever the reading should be. "1" means there's no connection (no continuity). Once it reads anything other than "1" you've got a connection with resistance, measured in ohms. The lower the number, the less resistance.

Ballen

12 is to big, 8 to small, 9 to big . guess i should just buy a pair of each size and lock washers and get to it.

what are the chances of breaking the studs .? rusted pretty bad but bolts look not as bad as nuts.

bone collector

try a set of sockets designed for rounded off bolts. something like this... http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/sc...olt-extractors

i have a set and they are priceless. seriously worth their weight in gold