90 Toyota 4Runner Engine Replacement
#1
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90 Toyota 4Runner Engine Replacement
This is one of my first posts here. I am an active member on bimmerforums.com.
My daily driver bit the dust. The head gasket went up because of a defect in the design, and the previous owner didn?t change the oil. My truck is 17 years old with 130k on the clock.The truck has no rust, a great paint job, new wheels, and a fully loaded mint interior, even the a.c works(R12 ftw). The local mechanics quoted me 6500.00 to replace the power plant. That?s twice the value of the car so I took the project by the horns and made the choice to do it myself.
This winter break I decided to replace the engine in my garage with two of my buddies. At this point we are halfway done and the used engine is being delivered Wednesday. I picked it up from a junk yard for 1800.00... We are going to replace as many maintenance items as possible like the timing belt, water pump, seals, and we are definitely replacing the head gasket. I am also replacing some suspension parts like the front sway bar and the shocks. I think I can get her back on the road for under 2500.00.
If you guys have any suggestions on what I should replace please chime in.
The first Japanese car i have owned. This is my first blown engine. This is my first attempt at replacing an engine and its going very well!
Cheers.
Carl
eww look at the sludge in the throttle body!!!
the fuel injectors were pretty bad also...
engine oil from the cracked block....always a healthy look.
My friend matt working to take off the intake manifold.
My daily driver bit the dust. The head gasket went up because of a defect in the design, and the previous owner didn?t change the oil. My truck is 17 years old with 130k on the clock.The truck has no rust, a great paint job, new wheels, and a fully loaded mint interior, even the a.c works(R12 ftw). The local mechanics quoted me 6500.00 to replace the power plant. That?s twice the value of the car so I took the project by the horns and made the choice to do it myself.
This winter break I decided to replace the engine in my garage with two of my buddies. At this point we are halfway done and the used engine is being delivered Wednesday. I picked it up from a junk yard for 1800.00... We are going to replace as many maintenance items as possible like the timing belt, water pump, seals, and we are definitely replacing the head gasket. I am also replacing some suspension parts like the front sway bar and the shocks. I think I can get her back on the road for under 2500.00.
If you guys have any suggestions on what I should replace please chime in.
The first Japanese car i have owned. This is my first blown engine. This is my first attempt at replacing an engine and its going very well!
Cheers.
Carl
eww look at the sludge in the throttle body!!!
the fuel injectors were pretty bad also...
engine oil from the cracked block....always a healthy look.
My friend matt working to take off the intake manifold.
Last edited by CEbeling; 01-09-2007 at 12:16 PM.
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I can appreciate the 3.4 swap and all its benefits, but I hear converting OBDI cars to OBDII is very complicated. I would think there is lots of room for error and I dont have the time to trouble shot. Keep in mind this is also the first engine swap I've ever done, so I was trying to keep it as simple and straight forward as possible.
Last edited by CEbeling; 01-09-2007 at 12:36 PM.
#6
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It is true, the 3.0 swap would be easier. If you are not planning on keeping the vehicle for a long time it probably makes better sense as well. Not sure if you have an auto or 5spd, but the 5spd swap saves complexity and money.
Just seems for $1800 you should be able to find a 3.4, get just the wiring harness from ORS ($595) and be in really good shape for the swap. Even with a few extra parts (headers, hoses, etc) you'll still be well under the shop quote as well as the Jasper 3.0.
ORS as well as YT offer a huge amount of info and help on this 3.4 swap. Several have been done in detail on this board within the last few months.
For me, after all the work and money I would put into a 3.0 swap I'd really look at spending a bit extra now for all the power, reliability and better mpg the 3.4 will get you.
Just seems for $1800 you should be able to find a 3.4, get just the wiring harness from ORS ($595) and be in really good shape for the swap. Even with a few extra parts (headers, hoses, etc) you'll still be well under the shop quote as well as the Jasper 3.0.
ORS as well as YT offer a huge amount of info and help on this 3.4 swap. Several have been done in detail on this board within the last few months.
For me, after all the work and money I would put into a 3.0 swap I'd really look at spending a bit extra now for all the power, reliability and better mpg the 3.4 will get you.
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CEbeling,
Having been driving my 3.4 conversion (90 SR5 Truck) for three weeks, now, I have to tell you that the improvement over the 3.0 is incredible!
If you have not started the new engine in, yet, you might want to investigate the 3.4. If you are dealing with a 5sp tranny, you could do it with what you already have on the old 3.0, plus the 3.4 and engine wiring harness and computer, and a 3.4 clutch kit. You'll also need to address the crossover and exhaust. You can get the conversion harness from Mike at ORS (get all of your 3.4 stuff from ONE truck, if possible), as well as a nicely made crossover.
If you have an automatic, there will be more to deal with, with the transmission issues.
Check my thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/finally-venturing-into-my-3-4-swap-dial-up-warning-93642/
I did the job, by myself, outside, so you are already ahead of that game, with a garage and a buddy to help!
The power alone is worth the conversion, but I'm also getting a pretty steady 18mpg out of the 3.4, as well.
Good luck, whichever way you decide to go!
Having been driving my 3.4 conversion (90 SR5 Truck) for three weeks, now, I have to tell you that the improvement over the 3.0 is incredible!
If you have not started the new engine in, yet, you might want to investigate the 3.4. If you are dealing with a 5sp tranny, you could do it with what you already have on the old 3.0, plus the 3.4 and engine wiring harness and computer, and a 3.4 clutch kit. You'll also need to address the crossover and exhaust. You can get the conversion harness from Mike at ORS (get all of your 3.4 stuff from ONE truck, if possible), as well as a nicely made crossover.
If you have an automatic, there will be more to deal with, with the transmission issues.
Check my thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/finally-venturing-into-my-3-4-swap-dial-up-warning-93642/
I did the job, by myself, outside, so you are already ahead of that game, with a garage and a buddy to help!
The power alone is worth the conversion, but I'm also getting a pretty steady 18mpg out of the 3.4, as well.
Good luck, whichever way you decide to go!
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Its an automatic. I am not dealing with the 3.4 swap yet. Maybe next time my engine blows.
I just received the used engine. As I was cleaning the grease and grime off the block and I noticed a remanufactured stamp. It looks like the junkyard guys missed this. It was remanufactured last may. I am pretty happy with my purchase.
I just received the used engine. As I was cleaning the grease and grime off the block and I noticed a remanufactured stamp. It looks like the junkyard guys missed this. It was remanufactured last may. I am pretty happy with my purchase.
#9
Take my advice and just get the 3.0 in there and don't go crazy on your first.
Trying to stuff anything where it wasen't meant to be takes knowlege and experience. Japs are not hard to work on. I felt that way about mine 9 years ago when I got it. I picked up a Hayens manual for it that day. If it is a reman the H/G's should be OK.
>>> Uh,the converter hanging off the flywheel is not good. Don't do that unless the motor's locked up. DO NOT PUT IT BACK IN THIS WAY. Your risk breaking the transmission front pump. Put it back in the tranny and spin it around and make sure it goes all the way in right. Put a C-Clamp or somthing to hold it for now.<<<
Trying to stuff anything where it wasen't meant to be takes knowlege and experience. Japs are not hard to work on. I felt that way about mine 9 years ago when I got it. I picked up a Hayens manual for it that day. If it is a reman the H/G's should be OK.
>>> Uh,the converter hanging off the flywheel is not good. Don't do that unless the motor's locked up. DO NOT PUT IT BACK IN THIS WAY. Your risk breaking the transmission front pump. Put it back in the tranny and spin it around and make sure it goes all the way in right. Put a C-Clamp or somthing to hold it for now.<<<
Last edited by timebandit; 01-10-2007 at 05:48 PM.
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UPDATE: So after months of trying to sell this truck I got sick of looking at it and drove back in the garage where it belongs. I am about to pull the intake plenum and start disassemble the heads. Is there a write up out there that could help?
#12
rebuild 3.0
I just got a rebuild 3.0 from overbore.com. paid 1800 and change. put in a stage 1 cam and it runs fine. had I know of the 3.4 upgrade I prolly would have gone that route but either way its paid and done. Good luck with your install bra, mine sucked and I will never do one again. I really like the outcome though and the truck is running good except for the freaking engine light is on.
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