nastar

Have a 90 pickup with FI 22RE, Son was driving home and it died, initially thought fuel pump was issue. Put my trusty in line spark tester, not getting any spark, put new plugs, rotor & cap, still no spark. Bought used coil/ignitor, still no spark. Does the 90 EFI truck have a shrader valve to test for fuel pressure?? and where else can I start looking for problem. I see some posts mentioning the VAFM. What and where is that. Still basically trying to figure if it's fuel or spark issue. Thanks!

nastar

any particular fuses I should be looking at, also I was wondering if any of the EFi relays could be the problem, and if so how to check them.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey, welcome to Yotatech..... You're a good Dad, lol.

First, you said "this, that and the other, ...and STILL NO SPARK"... right? So you're sure you have no spark, correct?

The fuse for the EFI is located under the driver side kick panel, inside the cab, in front of the door against the fenderwell inside.(at least it is on the 87...so I'd figure it's the same). Usually, the EFI fuse is the bottom left 15Amp plug in type fuse,... it will say on that white cover. And, you have to unscrew the electronics cover to get to that stuff. Not sure if that would cut off all spark. Your main fuse, either M4 or M3(think it's the latter), is also under there. It's round and usually an aluminum finish/look.

To test for fuel, you can either jump the Fuel Pump leads in the Diagnostic port, or, remove the VAFM from the housing and push open the flap with the key on(this actuates the fuel pump....Have your son sit back there by the pump in the tank and listen for it to go....You should be able to hear it, like I can, right from the AFM) You can also just turn the key to 'STA' position, and have him listen for it to come on.

PS> Coils usually just flat out fail.... more often than going out slowly. So IT COULD have been that, but if you're sure that the donor coil is good.....I guess that might not be it. I believe the Pick up could also just simply blow out. That Pick up coil is inside of your Distributor. You simply unplug the connector on the distributor(should be green) and test resistance. Should be between 140-180 with the meter on 2K)

nastar

ok, all fuses check good, tried listening for fuel pump to energize, didn't hear anything.
That was my original thought was the fuel pump, just wanted to check spark, I tested my inline spark checker on another car and it worked fine, just not seeing anything on the 22RE when trying to crank it over. The coil resistance checks good. On the diagnostic panel near the fuse panel under hood, which pins do I jump, assuming the Fp to what?? Thanks for your help

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, I've been really busy lately.... Chef's usually are right now! hahaha. Good to hear back from ya..

Hmmmm. Well, I would start, I know it sounds anal, with a Numbered Process Of Elimination, to help people cruising by to make the decision to stick around and read through, lol.... it's not that long yet, ...but trust me, it will help. Like so;

1. Checked for Fuel Pump Operation(list how you checked in parenthesis)
2. Checked resistance on a., b., c., etc.
3. Checked TPS
4. Replaced a.
5. Replaced b.
6. Replaced c.
7. Checked for spark(list how you checked in parenthesis)

You get the point. It REALLY makes it easier for people who just might jump in a dozen posts in or so.

Far as your port, I'm not sure. I think they're different(87 and 90), but VERY similar. Are you hearing a clicking in the glove box when almost turning the key over to crank? That is your Circuit Open Relay(COR) and it allows the fuel pump to turn on. If it's not functioning, you would have to jump the fuel pump to test if it's working anyway. Here's a great guy, 4crawler(Rogers), his site,...if the link doesn't take you right to the fuel pump jump test section, just scroll down a lil bit. Read carefully, as I'm not sure it applies to 90, as his is an 85 EFI. THEY ARE different, in some ways, ya know? Here's the link......

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

Start there and I'll be back, k? I'm sure other more experience people will chime in...but the weekends are really slim pickins pertaining to 'getting aide'! haha.

nastar

Thanks for all the info, have to wait until later today to try a few troubleshooting methods you have listed,
Truck ran great and never had any issues, it died while running, just quit, my son thought it ran out of gas, put 5 gal gas in but no luck, I'll let you know later on if jumping the fuel pump gets anywhere, is there a way to test the COR.

nastar

with Fp & B+ jumpered at diagnostic panel, can hear fuel pump running, still will not start. primary & secondary resistance at coil is within spec, as well as resistance at the pickup coil plug at distributor. I pulled both kick panels and can see the COR and ECU, both connections there look clean and good, should I check for 12v at the COR and listen for the relay to click, it's hard to hear relays and fuel pump with all the damn buzzers going off.

nastar

verified fuses are not blown, getting 12v at coil, but do not seem to be getting any spark, I have replaced coil/ignitor but still have same problem, coil resistance on both coils read ok, but may get a new coil to try. Could problem be the ECU, I did verify the COR is clicking. I'll try some more testing this long weekend and update later. None of electrical connections look corroded and actually lokk to be in real nice condition. How can I take a reading of the output of the coil, I have been using an inline spark testwer on the spark plug wires but it won't fit the coil wire.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Did you pull the wires off the plugs and check that way for spark? Or, are you still using that tool? I think you said you tested the tool on another vehicle...but just for the heck of it? lol.

I believe you check the IGN Check for the ECU for voltage, with the connectors connected still to the ECU. Just can't remember the exact test for that. I think I can find it after tomorrow(very busy, lol). There are instances that the system will not allow spark.... I THINK. I believe you can get 12V to the coil but when you go to start it, it wont allow the circuit to be completed... Unless, of course, you have a wiring issue somewhere. One test you can do is to remove the cap, turn it over and with lights off, check for spark against the pick up coil.

Also; Not sure if that thing(pick up coil) can still read decent resistance and just not work.

nastar

Ok, my original post was trying to figure out if my no start condition was fuel or ignition related, verified getting fuel and no spark, I have replaced coil/ignitor, cap/rotor, plugs/wires, then dawned on me that we had similar issue on small block ford 302, that turned out to be the ECM computer, anyway bought another ECM for the 22RE, but before swapping it out I had a another thing I wanted to try first, (stupid should have tried this way before) pulled the distributor cap off and turned the motor over, rotor is not turning, ok I'm hoping it's a broken distributor but more likely a broken timing chain. If I take off the valve cover, can I see the timing chain from that point. Onward if it is a broken timing chain, can I expect to have any other damage and if so what to look for. Thanks, Roger

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, that would explain having no spark alright. However, I thought you said you had spark to #1 or something, just not the other 3? Hmmmm. Well, since it's not turning, YES, STOP TURNING IT OVER, RIGHT AWAY, and first remove the valve cover.

Far as things being damaged, IF YOUR CHAIN snapped....you're not going to know without doing 1 of 2 things. One, you can replace the timing chain w/kit, slap the cover back on, carefully, without removing the head.....set your timing and line gears/chain/marks up properly and then set the lash, start it up and check for "CLICK-CLACK-SLAP" of the pistons to a stuck or bent valve. Or, TWO, Pull the head and have it checked at a machinist for those things(bent valves, etc.) You're not always, heck, even OFTEN, able to see bent valves, etc., by just looking at the top end of the head with your naked eye. Sometimes, you can see the top of the stem is way off from the rocker push pin....but it still might have damaged a few valves(sometimes on the bottom side), or even a piston, or both, if it turned over many times by the crank, without any CAM/VALVE turning/engaging(because the cam cannot turn when you break the chain, but the CRANK can, forcing the pistons into the valves, wherever they sat last when the chain snapped(IF IT SNAPPED....which it would seem it would have to, unless the shaft of the dizzy completely sheered in half...or maybe there is something else that could have happened to it, guys?).

I think you have to pull the cover, first, then possibly the head, to be sure. Reason being, you can't get the dizzy to turn till it's on #1 and you're on TDC on the compression stroke......But, if your chain is bust, than you'll have to pull the dizzy anyway, so why not just take it out and inspect it, eh? Obviously, if you pull it and the shaft is SNAPPED or something like that...then you might have your problem. But, you still need to carefully get it to TDC on the compression stroke, then install the Dizzy again at 12oclock, letting it roll backward onto Cyl. #1 position.

Yep, pull the cover, right away, and holla back to us, Nastar, K?

nastar

Hey Guys, Had some time on the truck this weekend, Last post I found that the rotor was not turning on the dizzy, so pulled the rocker arm cover and found the timing chain was still there and looks good, (how much slack should there be on the right side of the timing chain looking from the front).
Looks like the dizzy shaft gear slid down and is not engaging the camshaft gear, I set the #1 cyl to TDC, (even theough the rotor is not pointing at #1) but I can't get the distributor to budge, ( is there more holding it down then the 1 bolt on the right.??)
anyway, if I can get the dizz out, I'm hoping a new shaft will go back in and fix the issue.

nastar

Hey, Still no luck getting the dizzy out, I removed the hold bolt, but it won't even seperate from the head, I'm thinking the gear's might be jammed, although I was able to rotate the crankshaft and the chain and camshaft moved freely. But no movement from the dizzy shaft. Let me know what you all think might help getting the dizzy out. Thanks

nastar

It's Alive!!!, Thought I'd finally close out this thread and wanted to thank ChiefYota and Razed for your help.
Short version:::
No Spark- Found rotor not turning in dizzy, pulled rocker cover and found timing chain intact- noticed the cam drive gear and dizzy driven gear not engaging. Had trouble pulling the dizzy out, ended up having to pull the cam/drive gear out and still had to use a piece of Oak and little sledge to get the dizzy out.
Installed new cam/drive gear and a used yota dizzy, fired right up.
Have any of you ever seen a dizzy lock up like this, looks like the dizzy shaft siezed and the cam/drive gear being the bigger helical bro, just shoved the dizzy driven gear down about an inch, causing my issue.. Any how thought I'd let you all know what the fix was.