YotaTech Forums

YotaTech Forums (http://www.yotatech.com/forumindex.php)
-   86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (http://www.yotatech.com/f116/)
-   -   90 22re possible bad piston ring or H/G (http://www.yotatech.com/f116/90-22re-possible-bad-piston-ring-h-g-150447/)

sincal 07-28-2008 12:40 PM

90 22re possible bad piston ring or H/G
 
OK after having a crappy idle and low compresion on #2 cylinder. Im thinking i have a bad ring due to i put oil in the plug hole and compresion went up about 20psi. My compression readings are as follows. Dry 130, 60,130, and 130. When wet the number two cylinder was better assuming the ring is bad per fsm. I did not hold the throttle open nor did i take the EFI fuse out when doing the compression test. My concern is this. Me not taking the EFI fuse out do you think its possible that the fuel injector to the cylinder could be bad throwing gas into the cylinder causeing low compression on that cylinder or do you think its the rings. Any help would be appreciated. I would really hope its something other than the ring. Even if head gasket that would be easier than doing a complete rebuild. :think:

JsEngine&repair 07-28-2008 12:59 PM

Just break down and tear the whole engine out. Have it bored over. Get the valves reground. get a full engine rebuild set with all the goodies(rings, pistons, bearings, new cam!) And then reinstall the engine and you will be good to go for another 200,000 miles my man!:)It should cost you about 1,000 bucks if you buy top of the line parts

JsEngine&repair 07-28-2008 01:00 PM

The reason I suggest that is that I have a 1990 that had the same problem and the people that owned it before tried what you want to do only to have the head gasket blow 2,000 miles later.

JsEngine&repair 07-28-2008 01:02 PM

One other thing. Do a leak down test and find out where your air is going. That way, you wont be blindly looking for a problem. You could have a cracked head as well. Has the truck ever been hot? How many miles? any other work ever been done to the engine? Any info at all will help me help you.

sincal 07-28-2008 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JsEngine&repair (Post 50885124)
One other thing. Do a leak down test and find out where your air is going. That way, you wont be blindly looking for a problem. You could have a cracked head as well. Has the truck ever been hot? How many miles? any other work ever been done to the engine? Any info at all will help me help you.


Ok a little info on the truck. As you know its a 22re with 220,000 miles was told it had a complete rebuild about 80,000 miles ago from p/o. Dont know for sure. When i got the truck it had this horrible idle. I was told to replace the motor mounts so i do. I also replaced rotor, cap, plugs and wires. Still has horrible idle. After reading about 2,000 posts i decided to do a compression test. I found out that the number two cylinder had low compression. I did the compression test just today again to make sure i did it as per fsm. Today i read 150, 100, 150, 150. I put oil in the low cylinder and it shot up to 115. Thats why i think its the rings. But is it normal for just one to go out like that or no. I did not do a leak down test for my compressor is shot. I am going through gas like crazy and have no power. The oil is still golden brown a little dark but still good no water in it or nor is it low. My coolant is bright green and has no leak nor is it low. The motor does not get hot as per gauge. Again this truck just passed smog and the only thing that was high was the hydrocarbons. Still in specs but a little high. I hope this helps you help me.. thanks again.:bang:

abecedarian 07-28-2008 04:20 PM

first:
do valve adjustment- .008" intake, .012" exhaust (hot engine)
idle @ 750-800 rpm (hot engine)

next:
ignition timing @ idle (hot engine) 5 BTDC (with TE1 / E1 terminals in diagnostic port jumpered)
(may have to adjust both idle speed and timing to get both correct)

and then:
TPS check: http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
AFM check: http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

sincal 07-28-2008 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abecedarian (Post 50885278)
first:
do valve adjustment- .008" intake, .012" exhaust (hot engine)
idle @ 750-800 rpm (hot engine)

next:
ignition timing @ idle (hot engine) 5 BTDC
(may have to adjust both idle speed and timing to get both correct)

and then:
TPS check: http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
AFM check: http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

You think that the valve adjustment would affect the compression? Even after doing the test wet and compression rising? Im just asking because i hope that will help.

84sr5yoty 07-28-2008 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sincal (Post 50885280)
You think that the valve adjustment would affect the compression?

Proper valve adjustment makes a HUGE difference in compression readings. Too tight or too loose clearances will cause low to 0 compression readings even with good piston rings and good valves/seals/guides.

sincal 07-28-2008 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 84sr5yoty (Post 50885286)
Proper valve adjustment makes a HUGE difference in compression readings. Too tight or too loose clearances will cause low to 0 compression readings even with good piston rings and good valves/seals/guides.

I understand that it would affect the compression readings, but my question is if i did the wet test and the compression has risen from previously testing dry, would it not be the rings or could the oil that was put in just coat the valves?:bang: sorry im an idiot

sincal 07-28-2008 05:24 PM

and hince i have not done a valve adjustment in a very long time i will have to do cold not hot. Well at least the first time

Targetnut 07-28-2008 05:40 PM

Valves would have to be crazy loose before it affected the compression. But A tight valve that is just holding open will lower the compression, and if it is just barely open a wet compression test will show an increase.

That said if the engine were "rebuilt" 80k ago, if someone did not install the rings properly, one could have broken.

Almost universally if it had bad rings it would drive the HCs above the limit for a smog test., now a tight valve as mentioned before would have less affect on the emissions.

One more thing, driving around with tight valves can lead to burnt valves.

So get on that valve adjustment right away!

If you must do it cold reduce the clearances by .002". so that would be int.006" and exh.010"

abecedarian 07-28-2008 06:05 PM

if you can't do a leakdown test, adjust and eliminate the valves as a problem.
I'm not saying the valves are the problem, but minimize the effects they have on the engine by getting them adjusted properly.

and honestly, you probably have a bad compression ring in the cylinder, but it's good practice to test and eliminate other things before you jump right up on any solution.

sincal 07-28-2008 06:32 PM

well i will tackle the valve adjustment tomorrow morning and post what i have found i.e (way out of whack). Thanks for the tips i hope it is as simple as a valve adjustment.

JsEngine&repair 07-28-2008 06:46 PM

Im sure that the FSM says the Intake is .08 and exhaust is .12 cold. remember, slightly lose valves are better than valves that are slightly too tight. That "slight drag" they are looking for is just that...a SLIGHT drag...as in not much at all. You should just be able to feel that there is pressure on the feeler gauge but you shouldnt have to use any force to get it to move. Thats how Ive been setting my new 22rs up and have only had a problem once when I set it slightly tight. It uses oil (lots!) if you are driving with a low engine vacuume. (4wd LO around the farm)

I agree with ABEC you probably have something funky like a broken ring or maybe the cylinder is worn in the engine. Remember, 80,000 miles on a 22R or 22RE is worn out and needs to have the timing chain replaced. And, most people say "rebuilt" on these engines but they mean "it has a new timing chain"

sincal 07-28-2008 08:11 PM

yeah im just crossing my fingers and hoping for the best. I just really am not feeling like tearing the engine apart for that darn ring. But you have to do what you have to do.

sincal 07-29-2008 09:00 PM

problem fixed but knocking now
 
Thanks to all that has enlightened me with tips. I did the valve adjustment today and much to my dismay solved the compression issue. Almost all of the valves were too tight i couldnt even fit .006 in any of them. Adjusted acordingly and bam. No more engine vibration and way more power on the go. The only thing is now that i did the valve adjustment im getting a weird knock. Could be the old four banger knock but kinda scaring me. I double checked the clearances and all is good. I didnt tighten the valve cover too tight like some mentioned. Any insight?

sincal 07-30-2008 08:35 PM

anybody?

Targetnut 07-31-2008 04:25 PM

I see that someone posted that the valve specs are .008" and .012" cold,

I'm hoping you did not follow that advise. If you did, I'd imagine it would be pretty noisey indeed.

The specs are .008" and .012" HOT. (normal operating temp)

If you set them cold you should subtract .002" from those specs.

sincal 07-31-2008 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Targetnut (Post 50888021)
I see that someone posted that the valve specs are .008" and .012" cold,

I'm hoping you did not follow that advise. If you did, I'd imagine it would be pretty noisey indeed.

The specs are .008" and .012" HOT. (normal operating temp)

If you set them cold you should subtract .002" from those specs.

I did the adjustments hot. 8, 12. I even took back apart and tried 6, 10. To see if maybe the prier adjustments were too loose. But the engine starting shaking like crazy and acted like it had a miss. So i put back to 8, 12 and all is well other than the knock. Its just my rocker arms sounds like there tapping load. Dont know if it is normal with a 22re or not. I have never owned one. Im going to try some thicker weight oil with lucas oil to see if it will quite up some. Hopefully that helps.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:57 PM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184