89 centerforce clutch- t/o bearing
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89 centerforce clutch- t/o bearing
Throw out bear has finally gone out after 202K of abuse. Bought centerforce presssure plate, disc , t/o bearing, and pilot bearing- figured i ougt to throw a clutch in while i was right there. will have pics...
#3
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ah yes, kick off the welcome wagon BBP
Welcome atoy!
Here's a tip if it's the first time you've dug into the clutch setup; take special note of how the throwout bearing holds onto the fork, and how the fork snaps onto the trans with the springs; that's probably two of the most asked questions on here about clutch replacements, lol
Welcome atoy!
Here's a tip if it's the first time you've dug into the clutch setup; take special note of how the throwout bearing holds onto the fork, and how the fork snaps onto the trans with the springs; that's probably two of the most asked questions on here about clutch replacements, lol
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291 dollars and two weeks later...
Tips and tricks are appreciated, and thank you for the welcomes
Tips and tricks are appreciated, and thank you for the welcomes
Last edited by atoy yot; 02-06-2010 at 04:11 PM.
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gonna tear into it tuesday should have some pics, also gotta pull the right hub- wont lock in so no 4wd ..... and RR axle seal is leaking again!... any helpful hints are welcome
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Well..... got the clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing in, pilot bearing gave us a little trouble but all else went somewhat smoothe. Took the right hub all apart greased and cleaned, put all back together so were back in 4wd running shape. Now the BAD- started it up and the same noise that lead me to believe my throw out bearing was bad sounded off again!- Then a big clunk! The noise sounds similar to a baseball card in the bicycle spoke ordeal... this noise has now stopped( i think because what ever was grinding against each other has now been married and wont let go of each other) and now what i have is this= Start the truck in neutral clutch depressed no problems at all- put it in 1st(or in neutral) and slowly release the clutch and it will choke the motor out similar if you were to let the clutch out with your foot on the brake. , still running if you push the truck (still in 1st with clutch depressed) it willnot freely roll- you can feel it catching..... With the engine off = in neutral the truck will roll- put it in 1st obviously it wont roll when pushed but when you push your foot on the clutch it still wont roll. ANY HELP would be great, i would be less confused if i was learning how to fly a helicopter... Going to drop the tranny tomorrow... P.s. ( please help)
--Clutch all installed--
--Clutch all installed--
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1st off, if it's 5 speed and non-ADD, I wonder if the shift rails of the TC got miss-matched... I'd remove the TC lever up top fore I'd drop the tranny...
2nd, any engine or transmission from any 22r(85 and up) or RE will fit it. The V6 bell housing bolt pattern is different but with a Turbo bell housing you can put a V6 tranny (R150-R151F) in a cyl truck. Costly if you buy it new though. And every V6, AT and only the 4cyl with ADD has a chain drive case.
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 02-09-2010 at 07:09 PM.
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Yes it is a 5spd, not sure what you mean with the non- ADD but we did indeed pull the shifters out up top because thats what we thought was wrong...
and thank you for the info of the years. I just don't know what to do next other than open up the tranny.. located in richmond, VA
and thank you for the info of the years. I just don't know what to do next other than open up the tranny.. located in richmond, VA
Last edited by atoy yot; 02-09-2010 at 07:28 PM.
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LOL!!! How did I know you were going to ask that?
Know this page, love it.
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#IFS
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What is the difference between the W42 ,46,50,52,55, and 56 - versus- the G 52? I know the W is what i have because it has only 6 bolts holding down the shift levers down and the G has 8 bolts... right? will the G series work in place of mine? thanks in advance!
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had the top idler pulley lock up on me today- the one running the ac compressor- went to advanced and the part number there computers show is a pulley that is a lot smaller than the one that i pulled out... went from advanced to auto zone then to napa... they all brought up the identical pulley that was too small and i was pretty sure the adjustment screw couldn't compensate for that much of a change. i ended up just buying a new bearing and pressing the old one out and in with the new... has anyone else run into any other problems like this? or an explanation why the aftermarket makers did this?
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1989, 22re, 4x4, 89, bearing, centerforce, change, clutch, downey, installation, interchanging, problems, throw, toyota, truck