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89 4Runner Body lift: 3.25" works for me

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Old 03-20-2007, 03:31 AM
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89 4Runner Body lift: 3.25" works for me

Hi, making room for 35's.
Made up 3 1/4 inch SS pipe spacers.
Installed with 6 " gr 8 bolts, new SS washers nuts etc.
Fuel filler is stretched as far as it will go but is working.
Moved ignition coil to allow wire to clear air intake.
Rad is ok for now, fan dropped out through removable strip in shroud.
Brake line in front unc oiled a bit of the loops.
Transfercase shifter had to be cut in loop part for drive shaft clearance and 4" filler welded in.
AT linkage adjusted a bit.
1000km on so far and no other issues.
So, it isnt pretty but is cheap and easy. I think 3 1/4 is the absolute max you can do without extending brake lines and the gas filler, plus I can clean my frame up easier now and it easier to work on stuff underneath.
Will take pics of the mods done for others if needed. Mike
Old 03-20-2007, 05:54 AM
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PLEASE tell me you put end plates on those pipe spacers not just the pipe coming up to the floorboard...

I assume you want 35's so you can wheel it on hard trails - in which case I'd want the strongest bodylift you could get - and pipe ain't gonna do it.

But, you may just want it as a street queen, and that's cool - just be VERY careful going over speedbumps!
Old 03-20-2007, 09:14 AM
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spacers are 2" sch40 SS pipe with 3/8"2x2 square plates welded on the end.
It is definetely NOT a queen of any type. A Troll maybe.
I was looking at 33's but the 35's were new and a good deal.
Ultimately the 35's will go on my 95 P/U with the diesel to make my 4.10 gears work with the engine to give me the cruising speed I need.
If the 35's are too much for the 4Runner I will get the 33's anyway.
Right now I just want to fit the 35's on the truck with minimal cost to see what they will do.
My purpose was to see how much BL could be done without major mods since it is hotly debated and I had a hard time finding any info without being told it was WRONG.
Not looking for approval, just putting info out there. Any constuctive criticism or suggestions will be duly noted.
Mike
Old 03-20-2007, 11:37 AM
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I'm not sure of the differences but I fit 35's on my 91 truck with only a 2in body lift and BJ spacers with a 2in block in the rear. My body lift was some 2x2x3/16 sq tubing which I laid on its side so I can wash dirt and stuff out of the tubing. It has held up very well and so far the truck has not felt the least bit tippy.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by chopitrakeit
Not looking for approval, just putting info out there. Any constuctive criticism or suggestions will be duly noted.
Mike

Isn't it amazing how the regulars on this forum expect justification for everything you do to your truck?

I knew when I first read your thread that

A) You'd get flamed for it and
B) You had either welded a plate or a disk on the end of the pipe. Otherwise it wouldn't work, and
C) I bet you get flamed some more for even putting a body lift on your truck to begin with.

Most of the guys around here think the only way to mod a truck is to go all out and spens $5k on sas and the full boatload of stuff that goes with it. I've had a body lift on my truck for years and never even known it was there. I've wheeled the hell out of ti and even been in a few fender benders too and its perfect.

Btw tc I'm not flaming you in that reply... In my opinion the flamers haven't even gotten into the thread yet.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:28 PM
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Cool to see someone fabbing up their own stuff.

Just a thought, you mentioned you used grade 8 hardware. Did you use metric or standard hardware? If you used metric, and it's "8", it's class 5 and that equivalent to a metric grade 5-ish. You'd want class 10.9-12 for hard metric hardware.

Body lifts might *only* raise the CG but they do so less than suspension lifts so they have their place.

Frank
Old 03-20-2007, 02:48 PM
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bolts etc

Bolts are 1/2 UNF x 6" Gr8 (5 marks).
I should have gone with 7" long with the 3.25" spacers as it was hard to get thread started on them but I was able to get full nut with lock washers and some extra when tghtened. I have rechecked torque and will do so again till satisfied they are not loosening.

As for flaming, it just degrades from threads by wasting space.
Its hard enough to find the info you need on forums due to the volume out there without wading through crap.
I have lurked here and many other sites for years, post only when need really need to or think I have somewhat unknown info to share.
As for BL vs Suspension debate: Yes BL is limited value and susp lift is best but I am cheap and experimenting and will accept the limitations of all that I do in the self fabrication and backyard engineered..that is part of the fun of this hobby for me.

Thanks to all for info and to those who post clear, concise questions and answers throughout the formum.

Mike
Old 03-20-2007, 03:27 PM
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If it makes you happy, then go for it. I wouldn't trust sitting ontop of some pipe and wheeling the junk out of it, but its your truck. I don't think it is the smartest route to go, but atleast you did it the right way and not half-assed. Aslong as it holds up the more power to you. Everyone can understand just trying to save some bucks, just DON'T SACRIFICE SAFETY for it. Keep a close on on the pipe.

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