Yota89dlx

And to clarify it stumbles maybe once or twice on a 30 min drive if at all... Going to test fuel pump itself as well to make sure it's doin it's job

combatcarl

Your pump is probably doing good, being that it starts and runs. The only way to really see what it's doing is to put a gauge on it and read the pressure. And that's kinda a pain in the butt.
If it stumbles on hard throttle application, might check the fuel filter, if it is original equipment, it could be slowing fuel flow, even though it is called a "lifetime" filter. Most of these trucks are reaching or past their predicted lifespan by now.

Yota89dlx

I was thinking the pump may be cutting out intermittently and that would explain the slight stumble I'm still feeling or my other though is when I replaced the head Gasket the old coolant temp sensor was so old the harness fell off when I was trying to disconnect it and in the interest of putting it back together quickly I bought a cheap auto one sensor to replace it. I wonder if this use be sending the ecu wrong info on the engine temp saying it's cold when it not and causing too much fuel to be dumped in when im trying to start warm. But I'm open to suggestions. It's a 2.4 4cyl with 267k and im running out of ideas haha

combatcarl

It could be an intermittent short/open in the FP circuit. The temp sensor is a possibility. Mine is giving me a weird warm start occasionally, but I've been awaiting good weather (here now) and funds to mess with it.

Yota89dlx

Finally found the problem... And how tiny a problem it turned out to be. Turns out when I replaced the head Gasket I had forgot to connect the ground that branches off the wiring harness and attaches where the intake and plenum connect. Found it while I was mucking around with the fuel rail, checked my old picture I took during the HG replacement and grounded it and she's running like a champ, no more bucking, nor more warm start issues. Brand new Tps, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, temp sensor and sender along with a complete cleaning of the emissions system later turns out I didn't need most of it. Oh well thats the joy of having a yota. I may have hugged it after I fixed it haha. Thank you for your help combatcarl, your a gentleman and a scholar and I would try cleaning all the grounds (see thread link below) worked wonders for me and might just help your warm start issue... Little bit of work but it's free
(picture I found on this thread when I wanted to be sure I didn't miss any other grounds) https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/

combatcarl

Sweet. I never think about grounds. These systems seem to get pretty picky about current flow. Good it's a free fix, though.

Yota89dlx

Ya tell me about it, don't know why I didn't think of it sooner, had the same type of issue awhile back when I took the A/C off to clean it and check for leaks. The ground that hooks to the mounting bolt underneath it was dirty and not making a connection, got my ac, rear window and license plate lights in a funk strangly enough. Very strange considering it runs straight from the - battery terminal

combatcarl

Well, my visits here have been infrequent, just more things to do than time available for forum surfing.
Little update to my TB story. About a month ago, throttle started sticking again, would hang up and idle up, whack the throttle, and would idle back down, but never in exactly the same place. +/- 25-50 rpm. Got sick of it, pulled TB to inspect. Black goo, tar-like, inside plenum, on back of TB. What the freak is goin on here? Cleaned it up, removed TPS, and lubed throttle shaft a little bit.
Then, I decided to "reset" the entire TB setup. Last time, all adjustments, mech and electrical, were by book. This time, adjusted throttle stop screw until plate shut fully, and no contact with screw. Then adjusted "too much" by a turn or a little more, until I could see a clear crescent, top and bottom of throttle plate. Set up TPS by book, at the "over-adjusted" throttle setting.
(Reinstall, reconnect, warm up, etc, etc)
Once warm, I had to turn in my idle adjustment screw nearly all the way. It's turned back from fully closed maybe a half-turn. Before, was 3-4 turns out from full stop. (Can't remember exactly) Beautiful idle, crisp throttle response, like new throttle. Also removed, cleaned and lubed throttle cable. Way less pedal effort now, too. Mucho better-o.
Now, anybody know what their idle screw's adjustment is, in turns, from fully closed? And if any of this made sense, does it sound like it's at an adjustment point where things could be negatively affected in any way? Seems to work better than book spec.
P.S.: EGR is disconnected again, trying to see if that is the source of the oily black buildup. Wasn't sooty in texture, like the first cleaning, just looked and felt like a thin coat of tar. Well, if anybody knows anything, lemme know. Thanks.

cammac.cmm

Thank you soooo much for making this detailed thread! I was having the same problem as you described. Took my throttlebody off and cleaned it and realised my egr passage hole was blocked.. cleaned it all up and truck is running amazing.
Thank you

combatcarl

No worries. Glad it helped. It's been however many months now and seems to be doing fine. Figured I'd at least say that, too, while I'm here. As a side note, I'd clean the throttle body at the same interval as plugs n wires. Especially with EGR hooked up. I haven't reconnected my EGR system, haven't stuck anything in TB to see what's there or not for goo/soot, either.

combatcarl

Was under the hood messing with a few things needing attention, and reconnected EGR just because I was in there by it. It does make a difference at cruising speeds. Can't quite pin it down, though. Maybe smoother? Like it takes a little less pedal to maintain speed. Could have been my imagination. Whatever. Just an update.

sortafast

Awesome thread. Gives me some ideas with mine. I just redid the Headgasket on my 95 4runner. At that point I also threw on one of the bigger valved heads from Engbldr. it has run ok ever since, but lots of idle issues and now today as we were heading into Beaverton, it starts stumbling and bad. It had a couple hickups this last week driving around town but nothing too bad. But right when we are 30min from home it developed a wicked miss and would just up and die. when coast with the clutch in. Totally lame. Now I have to go pull it home tonight and try to figure out what went wrong. I am leaning towards something in the ignition system or a bum injector. Think it might be a weak coil or a bad igniter. One weird thing it did was the tach was all over the place as we coasted off the HWY. It went up to 8k and was dancing around even though we were only at around 2-3k. I am just about done with this thing. Seriously considering getting another Lesbaru or a small sentra or something.

combatcarl

With the tach jumping all over, I'd suspect the igniter/coil systems. the tach signal is derived from the igniter somewhere, I believe. I also had similar symptoms when I had my battery/alternator failure. No tach at the time, although my gauges did kinda go ape when the alternator failed.

combatcarl

Well, after running for almost a year with EGR disconnected, I hooked it up about 3 weeks ago, just to do it. As stated above, no real differences with/without. But, it only took 3 weeks to begin coating the back of my throttle plate with enough tar to make it start sticking again. So somewhere I'm getting enough oil to gum things up real fast. Months ago, I did a compression test, just to see the numbers, did it right, (hot, throttle open, all plugs out) and 4 was noticeably lower than the rest. I was rushed for time, so didn't continue messing with it, but now the combination of oily crap after 3 weeks, and egr being hooked up will make me dig deeper when some fair weather and days off align. For as cheap as I bought it, and the time I've gotten out of it, it won't surprise me if rings are shot, or never seated in right. There's a thread on here about type of rings used/honing/etc that I read back when I was chasing oil consumption. Whatever. I'll post back up here, and/or start a new thread if it's unrelated to anything here.

MyTaco

Awesome post, lots of great info in here in sure I'll need at some point. I've been going through my 92 p/u 22re with 170k miles. Runs great but I'm sure at her age I'll be finding some problems.

grumpin

Yes, good info combatcarl. I've got 266k on this engine. I'm not sure I want to do a compression check!

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Pull the rocker arm cover and check to see if your cam is wiped. Mine did just what yours is doing. Warped head .010 reground cam & rockers, new exhaust valves, along with head gasket & bolts. Runs so much better now.

Modern oils do not protect 22re cams from being wiped, EPA mandates make it impossible to get back in the day this engine needs.

Also #3 is burning oil.

combatcarl

The plugs had been in a loooong time at that point, they got replaced. Those had been in since break-in, etc. probably too long. And 4 is the one with lower compression, so that's where I'll probably focus my troubleshooting. But it will all get looked at. The stumbling and bucking hasn't been an issue since the TB fix, I've run it up near 5k at full throttle, no issues, has power. (As much as a 22RE can) Cam is good, I run as good an oil as I can, and unless a cam is straight trash, modern oils do fine. Or else there'd be millions of flat cam issues, with many different makes of engines. The cam will be looked at anyway, her summer tune-up and valve adjustment is due at next OCI. When I get some free time, I'll start diagnosing the problems further, but between running a lawn care outfit, and working full time, there just isn't time. I've seen these engines run for a long time in worse shape, mine doesn't smoke, knock, or rattle, so it'll wait. This summer I'll probably hand pick parts and build an engine, the way I want it, and boost some local business' economies by doing so. That'll be a different thread/adventure.