combatcarl

In the ongoing checklist of things to fix my stumble issue, I decided to remove and clean my TB and upper intake. Here's the back of the TB.

It needed cleaning, and the gasket was out of position. Looked pretty original, and was pretty hard, so I wonder how long it's been messed up. Looks like a poor install. How long ago is the question, since I know it's never been off since 97, when my dad bought it. I also discovered LOTS of oiliness in the intake runners, I've had an oil smell on decel ever since the engine I put in in early 09. Doesn't burn it, and never smokes. But the oil does go away. Maybe this is where, but how, is my question. Valve guides?
Anyway, off to clean out upper intake, need to pick up TB gasket, too.

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone using YotaTech

combatcarl

Should have seen the crud that came out of everywhere when the pressure washer hit it. Amazingly, the EGR passage wasn't completely clogged. Didn't get any pictures of the cleaning action. Too dirty to grab the phone. Got new TB gasket, now to set up TPS via 4crawler.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone using YotaTech

combatcarl

All put together and ready to go on in the morning. Knechts had the wrong gasket, didn't cover the bottom portion of the gap. So off to Autozone for the right one. Set up TPS, reinstalled the dash pot I removed forever ago, (due to sticking) we'll see if it still does it, backed the stop screw way off so it just makes contact before closing fully.

I'll have to keep an eye on my oil usage/loss situation, see if I can figure out where it's going. No leaks big enough to use it at a quart a month.

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone using YotaTech

combatcarl

Got it all back together. Had to adjust idle, so checked timing too. All checks out. Right now, after a shakedown run, it seems to have fixed my stumble on acceleration. I stress that it was only a shakedown run, so it'll take a few days to know if it's gone or not. Wasn't always able to make it happen. Pulled hard, about 4 or 5 times, let it decel, little loop thru town, and pulled up to a stop, started idling like I had a cam it, down about 500rpm and loping. Took a minute, adjusting the idle helped, raised it a little bit. But now it's got a funky miss or sputter at idle. Smells rich, too. Fuuuuuuuu... Now something else to chase. Runs good otherwise.
Lemme figger out how to get a video up. My photobucket video didn't work. Gaddjuyfxcghfsss! Damn iphone.


Sent from my NSA screened iPhone using YotaTech

combatcarl

Well that's weird. But not really. I should have pulled the IACV off and cleaned it up. Gave it 30 minutes or so, started up with a bump of the key, warmed up, idled right where it should. So I deduce that my IACV is in need of some love. Disconnecting and reconnecting it may have something to do with it, air bubble, etc., so I'll leave it be, and see if it reoccurs in the next week or so. Got a trip to coast soon, hopefully I'm not stuck on 126/101 somewhere!

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone using YotaTech

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

So you had a bad intake gasket.
Now you ECU tune is probably way off.
Pull the battery cable and bump the key.
This will de-energize everything and make sure your ecu has no power.
Re-connect the battery and start it up.
It'll take a bit to fire up and idle funny for a bit.
It'll clear up in a couple starts and stops around the block.

It may just need a reset on the ECU.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

If you got air in the IAC or air bubble traveling to it. The idle will fluctuate.
Not the problem here.

combatcarl

Well, I'd agree that the ECU "tune" is off. But it's not. Batt was disconnected for the work. Always disconnect when plugging in or unplugging anything. And these ECUs don't work that way. The only thing they store is faults, when a parameter isn't met, or value exceeded kind of thing. No memory or tune is stored. It's good for now. I'll run it for a bit n see. Thanks on the ideas tho. I'm thinking the air passage thru IACV may need cleaning. Should have clarified that.

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone using YotaTech

combatcarl

Removing TB and upper intake seems to have fixed my issues. Reconnected my EGR vacuum line, behaved just fine. Haven't had any idle issues again yet, maybe was related to some gunk that hung up in an air passage, or a random bubble passing thru the IACV. I'll pull it and clean it, but not now. Too damn cold. My idle is stable now, and the timing mark doesn't wander any more. Didn't have to adjust the timing at all, just checked it.
I did disconnect the EGR before my trip down to the coast, just to see what, if any, difference it made. Seems to be a little better "roll on" throttle response at speed. Otherwise, no real difference. I'll probably hook it back up, as it's there, and it all works like it should.

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone using YotaTech

Tayota

Glad too see you fixed your problem, even happier you let us know about it haha.
As far as your distributor being advanced, if you've ever have head gasket done and shaved your heads. It may be because of that. Mine is as advanced as it gets being the head has been machined twice to my knowledge we had too move. My timing chain off by a tooth. Or else would have had too with bigger sprocket or gasket or smalls chain lol. It's weird but it works.. So far haha

combatcarl

It is a rebuilt motor, but not by me. The machinist/mechanic could have overlooked telling me he'd shaved or decked it. Makes sense. Anybody that's shaved or decked know if this is so?
As a side note, this also seems to have fixed my oil consumption. Still get a faint smell of oil after decel, but not like before, and no ridiculous oil usage. I was at around a quart every month for a while there. Been since I've fixed my intake, and used maybe 1/2 pint so far. Maybe somehow the vacuum leak let it suck thru the PCV somehow. But I was lost, no smoke, no leaks. Oil just disappearing. Was a good accidental fix.

Buck87

Looks like you found the problem. If the problem comes back remove the TB only, not the plenum, and check out the injector wiring.

combatcarl

Yeah, I could've done it w/o pulling the upper intake. But I wanted to blow the crap out of plenum. There was A LOT. Checked out the wiring harness 4 yrs ago, looked good then.

Buck87

Yea Wow your TB was pretty dirty. I just wanted to be on record for the next guy, because your story/path was similar to mine except for the different solution.

combatcarl

Good point. I think I read thru some or all of your thread. Most I found were the question, then some replies and instruction to search, then nothing. Maybe somebody looking for answers would ask about a solution, but most stumble/bucking threads just dead-ended. So I figured since I've had it all apart before, I might as well tear it all apart then, and clean or replace stuff. It is so much better and smoother off idle with that crap cleaned out. After sitting all night, it would stick shut, and if I didn't slap the throttle once or twice before starting, it'd lunge as soon as I let clutch up and applied throttle. Also high idled whenever it wanted to.

Yota89dlx

I've been having the same issues but mine is through out the entire driving range w/any sort of load and miss fires slightly at idle after reaching op temp. I've replaced the easy stuff first (cap, rotor, plugs, wires) Tps is newly replaced and to spec, New coolant temp sensor and pcv valve and fuel filter. My best guess is the egr valve sticking as I can get it to start when warm by putting snow on the EGR (ya i know not the smartest but I needed it to get home to fix it) and tapping the EGR then cranking the engine. Not full related I've checked pressure and injectors. Just wondering from someone who's overcame this If the EGR valve seems like a viable problem and worth delving further into? And if so how to go about testing and cleaning it? I've heard using a vacuum pump to apply vacuum who engine running to test and soaking in Acetone for cleaning. Thanks for any knowledge ya'll can send my way

combatcarl

Defintely a possible issue. To verify operation, you apply vacuum to the actuator on top of the EGR valve. But, if it's stuck open, that won't tell you anything. I'm not really sure how to tell if it's stuck open, other than a poor idle. Might try disconnecting the vacuum line to it and capping it, then driving. You can also block it off, unless you have a later model with an EGR temp sensor.
I forgot if you said you checked all ignition electrical. Probably wouldn't hurt to. Testing coil resistances is easy, same for distributor, n related parts.

Yota89dlx

I've read some into blocking it off (if by that you mean removing and putting a steel plate in its stead) but I'm trying to stay away from that to maintain gas mileage and the fact that at 267k I would prefer not to raise the combustion temp in the cylinders and possibly cause more issues. Good call on capping the actuator I hadn't thought of that and seems like a logical test. And i checked the harness ground and reference voltage to ensure power to ignition system but I have not yet tested the resistance of the coil... Another good one to add to the list. Thanks for help and I'll update with what I find to be the fix (besides a 12g to the block haha)

combatcarl

You can double over a piece of beer/pop can and sandwich it between the EGR and manifold, too. That is a gimp fix to tell you if it's leaking. For cleaning, some say gun cleaning (carbon removal) products work great.

Yota89dlx

Little update now that I've had time to do some work... Cleaned and tested egr... Its working perfect. You were spot on combatcarl with the ignition coil... It took away the bucking but I believe this is a multi faceted issue. It still stumbles but very very slightly now and I still have problems with starting when warm and has been sitting a few minutes, im guessing I'm losing fuel pressure as it sits or the pump isn't kicking on. Next fix I'm going to try is jumping the fuel pump Test connecter to make sure the pump is kicking on when the ignition is turned and retesting fuel pressure . Read around and found this to be a common problem so I will update if I find a fix to the hot start issue again thanks for your help saved me frustration and most importantly MONEY!!!