12340987

I have a 2500RPM cold idle that I've been trying to fix. With the idle screw all the way in the thing still idles at 2500 cold, but goes down to a nice 900+/- when fully warmed up. So far I've done the O2, coolant temp, PCV and thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and the idle actually went higher.

I believe I've narrowed it down to the IAC valve and/or the Cold Start Injector. While I haven't checked the CSI yet, the coolant controlled IAC is retained by a "ring screw" and requires a spanner wrench to remove. I've been to every place in my little town and even the toyota dealer didn't have anything to remove it, not even to sell to me. I got the impression they never even messed with a TB from an early v6. I do see spanner wrenches online for about $50-150 but that seems a bit pricey for a use-once tool.

Has anyone ever taken this thing out? Are there any of you with the 3VZE that have had this problem and resolved it by doing one of these things?

MIKEMOKAS

my 91 does the exact same things. around 2200-2500 cold and after warmed up nice 700-900 range.

i definately think its the csi/ and or the time switch.

just not enough hours in the day to do everything.

curious to see what others say..

good luck!

Squeebs

my 92 does it...

BUT!

Once i start driving, usually 500 feet when i half to come to my first full stop, the idle is down to 900.

rdlsz24

Mine does it too. I thought it was pretty normal till it warms up.

Rob

12340987

I forgot about the CSI time switch, where is it?

And imagine if you drove an auto, the thing would just launch you when you started it up and you'd probably destroy the tranny eventually holding it at stoplights. I had a subaru witha moderately high idle, and I had to put it in neutral all the time.

And I'm sure you shouldn't have the idle screw all the way in.

jfcooper

My 91 did the same thing last winter, I had a leaky radiator and when my coolant was low it would rev real high till it was up to temp.
You might try running it till it's to temp, then turn the heat up and listen for the coolant to move through the heater core. Then turn the truck off and let it cool down, now check coolant level. Not had a problem since I replaced the radiator and water pump.

12340987

I've never had to add coolant, and don't see any leaks on the floor though it is hard to tell because it's winter. I'll have to try that though I guess.

I just checked the CSI and it's good, though I don't know really about the CSI timer.

I've ordered a spanner wrench from ebay for $20 so I should be able to look at the IAC valve when it gets here.