NaeSLaS

Hey Guys,

well after driving my new truck around for a while, i'm noticing that it is terribly underpowered.

It has 33X12.5 tires on it, and i'm decently sure it had no change in the gearing. My speedometer is off by about 10-15 percent, and 1st gear feels like i'm starting in a "normal" 2nd gear.

Anyway, on the freeway, 5th gear is utterly useless, and 4th gear is only for downhill and drafting trucks. I usually have to cruise around 3rd gear at indicated 57mph, which seems to be about what everyone else is doing (65ish). is this about normal for a truck like this? it sounds to me like i'm overrevving the engine.

Another thing, the carfax on the VIN says the engine should be a 2.4L 2BL (2 barrel carb, right)...but there's a 22RE sitting in it. Engine swap, perhaps?

Also, the truck is IFS (normal for 1988), and 5 speed.

I plan on re-gearing it, so it's close to stock, and maybe a bit more crawly (lower top speed)...suggestions? i'm told between 4.88 and 5.29 is a good place to start. Stock is 4.10, right?

Issue #2: The truck's driveline has a lot of play in it. If the truck is parked, and in neutral, i can physically rotate the driveline about 15 degrees before it grabs. is this normal?

Issue #3: When coming to a stop with the clutch pushed in, the truck makes a louder noise, which to me sounds like a small motorcycle engine running with no headers...kind of a "flup" noise 30 times, at about 15hz. Anyone know what this is?

Issue #4: Truck stumbles when it cold starts...i have to crank the starter for about 10 seconds, then it'll run on 1 or 2 cylinders for about 10 seconds, then it'll run fine. known issue? compression/headgasket on the engine are fine.

Issue #5: The truck makes a loud pop when i make tight turns...sounds to me like some kind of steering bind, but the truck doesn't bind up. Wasn't there some kind of steering-related recall on this truck?

Issue #6: Missing jack and related items. Is it worth it to replace these with OEM parts, or just get a bottle jack/highlift?

Issue #7: Spare tire winch...how the *%#* do i get the spare tire down? Is it the slotted crank thing up above the spare tire? I tried moving that with a rod from my subaru, but it won't budge. is there some kind of lock i have to release first? It is a chain-type winch, and it's pretty rusty, but it's been soaking in WD-40 for a while now, but still won't move. Am i making some n00b mistake?

TIA NaeS



P.S. is the bump stop supposed to be bent in like that? And how can i tell if the suspension is lifted or not? I know it has a 2" body lift, due to the rubber blocks everywhere, but how can i check for suspension lift? Also, is the front suspension only supposed to have like 2" of travel before it hits the bump stop? Do i need to crank the T-bars or something?

ovrrdrive

That truck has a 4" Superlift or Rough Country bracket lift on it. I think itsa a Rough Country due to what appears to be black paint on the diff drop.

No the bumpstop drop isn't supposed to be bent and is limiting your compression on that side and probably giving you some funky noises too.

I don't know about your travel, but IFS is known for little to no flex...

Give me a bit and I'll see if I can dig up a good pic of my lifted front...

ovrrdrive

Here's a picture of my lift... It's the same kit except mine has the original bump drops on it. I suspect someone bent the hell out of yours and replaced them with those square tubes.

I bet if they turned them 90 degrees they would have been plenty strong enough but the way they installed them is the weakest way to do it.

Btw, you won't have as much room under your stops as I do because I have 1.5" bj spacers installed and a mild tbar crank. I bet yours rides better than mine though.

Elton

see answers in red

NaeSLaS

So i'm not supposed to have more than about 1-2" under my bump stops? Also, any recommendations as to what I could do about bending them back? Also maybe rotating them?

Mine rides like a$$ because it keeps hitting the bump stops on like every bump...so i'm looking to correct that.

NaeSLaS

sliders and a high lift? I was thinking about that. That means i'd have to remove my flashy nerf/step bar, right?

and yeah, i tried turning it both ways...i actually bent my jack rod on it. (ok that sounded really bad...but you know what i mean)

amgraham

On the gearing 4.88s should put you about stock as far as the ratio goes. If you want more than stock go with the 5.29s. Stock is 4.10s and like 28" tires. The slop is most likely the backlash setup on the gears. You can pull the rear third member and tighten the bearings up but I would just wait till you get new gears because you have to set that back up again anyway then.

The pop in tight turns (full lock I assume) is your steering stops. You can see them welded on the front of your control arms. Keep them greased and it will be quieter.

ovrrdrive

Ain't IFS great?

Personally I'd call Rough Country and order new ones... I think you'd have a hard time jerry-rigging something as strong. Surely they don't charge that much for them...

Funny thing is that the originals should have been lifetime warrantied...

You can make your own and make them a little more lower profile to try softening up the ride a little...

You may also have relaxed tbars you can tighten up a little with no ill consequence, or your bars may be worn out and need replacing.

If it were me I think I'd get new bumpstop extensions and then crank the truck about .5" with the tbars to firm the ride and see how it does...

amgraham

Another thing on those bumpstops.. You could do low profiles when you fix/replace that extension.. It helped mine from bottoming out. Here's some comparison shots (just without the lift brackets):

Bunta Fujiwara

Lower your bump stops, and rev the hell out of it on occasion. ONLY on occasion, though. Not every gear, now. She'll purr like a kitten if you do your maintenance and driving right.

pruney81

Noone commented on the fact that you have to run in third gear on the highway. That seems rediculous to me, you should be able to cruise at 70 in 4th gear at least with 33's. Your tranny could be tired or the engine, or both.

dcg9381

Yea, 3rd on the highway isn't right, but I've never run a stock 22RE on 33s.
How much RPM are you turning at 57? Checked your speed via GPS or mile marker?

I'd make sure my timing was right, check the compression, then look into tuning the rest of it. Will it hold 60 with the pedal on the floor in 4th? What RPM?

elripster

For the front, I would get some 1.5" aluminum square tubing and make new/shorter bumpstop blocks. I did that on my old Trailmaster and gained lots of up travel. It was an excellent mod which really improved functionality. Here are some dimensions I posted on 4X4wire years ago when I did a write up on front cross linked air shocks.



It's odd, much of the tweaking we used to do to get more out of the bracket lifts has been lost over time. I would not install a bracket lift after owning one, but if it is already on the truck, might as well get the most out of it.

Frank

Bunta Fujiwara

Yes, the tuning is one thing I forgot. Thanks for metioning that. Definitely tune it.

NaeSLaS

I was thinking about welding together some new bumpstop blocks, maybe shortening about 1/2" or so, to get a bit more travel.

As far as cranking the torsion bars, anyone have a link to a how-to? I've searched lightly and can't find anything (though i'm still trying to figure out vbulletin's search).

also, pedal floored, it will NOT hold 60mph indicated in 4th gear. I have checked the compression, and got 160psi across the board. I just picked up an inductive timing light, so i'll be checking that soon. That'd be a nice easy fix for more power. what else can people suggest in terms of a tune-up? I already know i have to change my oil, my air filter, and my spark plugs (they're all worn/dirty). It's a 22RE so no carb tuning, i guess.

I don't have a tach yet, so i have no idea about the tuning. I'll probably pick up a cheapy autozone tach to wire in and give me an idea. what's redline on these? 5750ish?

Thanks again for all the replies.

dcg9381

Redline is around 6k, they'll pull over that w/o float. There isn't much power after about 4700 as torque drops off drastically.

When you time it, remember that you need to jumper two connectors first... The details are around somewhere. These jumpers tell the ECU to go to "base timing".

elripster

With 33's you should be fine with 4.88's. It will leave you a few % undergeared which will compensate some for the added inertia and drag of the larger tires.

You weld up blocks if you want but it is really easy to cut and tap holes into the aluminum. My design is jump tested and approved.

Frank

NaeSLaS

yeah i'll get a service manual before attempting the timing adjustment.

and elripster, not that i don't like your design, but i'm a college student (read: poor), so if i can make something free in class, then i'll go for that.

jagger_snitt

issue # 3 sounds like a clutch throw out bearing,or an aftermarket unit installed,I have a Centerforce II clutch and throwout bearing and the throw-out bearing is louder than the stock (TO bearing).
issue # 5 sounds like bad cv joints,auto zone sells them cheap.
issue # 6 If your going to be offroad or your tire size is bigger than stock,the stock bottle jack exc... won't help, I recommend an off brand tractor jack(cheap) or high lift jack,Tractor Supply(for both) and ,Harbor Freight,Northern Tool,and Napa sell the cheap ones.
issue 7 those things are a pain in the sack,especially if you get alot of flats,
there is no locking mechanism just keep cranking,lefty loosey,righty tighty, hope this helps.

NaeSLaS

ok, so this thread was probably long dead, but i see no reason in posting a new one, so i'll update this one.

Issues to date:

1) Driver's window falls out of track. I learned this is because previous owner hacked my door up, and did a bad welding job to hold the regulator in place. Pics to come.

2) Front steering makes popping noise on the steering stops. I learned i have adjustable steering stops, but i have no idea where to grease them. Where they actually make contact?

3) 4-low pops out under power, occasionally. Only on starting, it will sometimes pop out to neutral under slight power, and other times coasting around i'll look down and it's in neutral again. Is this a known issue/easy fix (here's to hoping)

4) Looking to crank the T-bars...can anyone point me in the direction of a how-to? Trying to get the most out of my sagging IFS.

also, i was thinking, if i come to a stop, and put the truck into 4-low, without engaging the manual front lockouts, do i effectively have 2-low? Is this bad for anything? I would assume not, because when they are in free mode, the wheel is turning without the axle, so would it matter if the axle is turning without the wheel?

wheee! i love my truck. I'm trying to get the video off my friend's camera phone to show my small crawling escapade. Out-crawled my sister's stock jeep (high-centered)!

ATB NaeS