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'88 4runner problems, too many to list...

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Old 03-25-2010, 05:43 PM
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'88 4runner problems, too many to list...

Hi all, I'm from central MA, and im new here on yotatech. I have an 88' 4runner, 22RE EFI 5 speed with 193k on an original engine (My father's old one, because he now has an '02. He bought it new in 89.) This thing is a blast to wheel in and awesome to drive, and generally speaking, my father and I do most all of the work on this truck ourselves. However, as my father was not so much into offroading with it, and more into having it get him places, it hasnt been taken care of very well and is starting to go. I have quite a few (tons) problems i need to address, so i guess i'll just list them:

1. After taking her down back to the field the other day (i work on a farm, and my truck comes with me), my truck has been acting funny. At low RPMs and low speed and low gear, its fine, but once i go upwards of 30mph or put the truck in 4th or 5th, its starts to shake/vibrate. Ive noticed this on the highway when im going 80 or 85, but never in 3rd or 4th gear before. It shakes like its idling too low for a gear, almost as if i was going 30 and had it in 5th gear. Keep in mind its not a very smooth ride out back at the farm, and i have to go over quite a few ruts and rocks. Did i bend something, or shift the suspension? Did the drive shaft warp or move? Im kinda lost on this. In 4wd it doesnt shake as much but it still shakes.

2. Suspension sag. Reading more and more about more beefed up yotas, i realized that the rear leaf springs on the 80's runners are notoriously saggy. Should i get replacement springs or should i cut off one of the shackle mounts, move it and get chevy springs or something? Im running 32's

3. Rust is everywhere. A combonation of harsh MA winters, salt, and not ever undercoating the frame may be to blame....
Either way theres rust everywhere and two huge gaping holes (one on either side) on the inside of the frame behind the rear axle. Theyre probably each 12-16" long or so, and the width of the frame wide. Do i cut them out and plate over/box them in? Do i do a frame swap/rear half frame swap? Do i cover my 4runner and gasoline and light it on fire? Im stuck on what to do. I feel like the more ambitious i get, the more i just want to buy a newer one with a better frame from down south and start over. I also dont have the luxury of taking this off the road for a long time.

Thanks and i appreciate all the input anyone gives! Im most concerned with the shaking issue, because this is my daily driver and I rely on her to get me to school everyday! I'll try and get some pictures by the weekend.
Old 03-25-2010, 07:27 PM
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By shaking, are you talking about an engine miss ?, or something in the suspension ?. If its more engine related try giving it a complete tune up, plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, and fuel filter. If the problem is suspension related, check the wheel bearings in the front and rear, if there bad that can cause a shake or vibration. When i got my 86 4Runner i had to replace the wheel bearing because they were shot with over 200.000 miles on them.
Old 03-25-2010, 07:42 PM
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Have your tires been balanced recently? That's the first thing I would look for. That and a bent wheel and or axle. If you have a jack and some jackstands, support the vehicle with the tires off of the ground. Spin each wheel and look for any wobbling. When you spin one of the back wheels, you can check the driveline for anything bent or wobbly.

While you've got it up in the air (or one end at a time - just make sure to block the tires on the ground) check each wheel for play by trying to lift up on it, with your hands at 12 and 6. If any of them are loose, you've got loose wheel bearings.

You can also check all of your suspension at this time - again looking for any sloppy or loose parts, or anything that is binding up. While you're checking the front end, check the steering linkages by wiggling the wheel with your hands at 9 and 3. Go ahead and do this on both sides, but pay extra attention to your idler arm on the passenger side. If there is any up and down movement in the arm, replace it or rebuilt it.

Also look at your CV joints, see if there is any play in them. Make sure it's not spinning!

As far as keeping this one and getting something newer... if that is in your budget to do so, I would. You're looking at a lot of money keeping this one, at least if you're planning on fixing it up. So you could pay for parts and spend all your time working on it, or you could spend maybe a little bit more all at once, and spend all of your time driving it and having fun, with just some regular maintenance.

But, not all of us have that luxury. Like me for instance!
Old 03-26-2010, 01:48 AM
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1- Shaking: u-joints. This could be exasperated by weak, sagging springs letting the axle twist more than it should.
2- Sagging. Your choice. New replacement springs, or Chevy's or whichever.
3- Rust. Do whatever you can to fix it. If it means sectioning the frame and welding, then so be it. Otherwise, you'll be playing catch-up for ever.
Old 03-26-2010, 03:02 AM
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myyota - im almost positive its not engine related. It idles perfectly and at low speeds drives just fine.

would the wheel bearings make the car not shake/vibrate in low rpms/ low speeds and do so at high speeds? And if its the bearings, do i get a rebuild kit or just new bearings/packing? I'm gonna put it up on jacks this weekend (hopefully saturday) and i'll do some of the wheel tests like 'yayfortrees' said.

thanks!
Old 03-26-2010, 03:36 PM
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well i had some time today after school so i put my truck up on jackstands. i inspected the rear axle, drums, wheels, and everything and i did the tests for the bearings and the everything seemed fine.

upon shifting my body up more i grabbed the driveshaft to help move myself to a different place with the creeper. the driveshaft moved....

the 4 bolts holding the u-joint to the rear of the tranny had unscrewed themselves almost completely, and one had fallen out. :O so i took a trip to sears hardware for some new bolts, lockwashers, nuts, and locktite and torqued them all down.

problem solved
Old 03-26-2010, 03:49 PM
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There is also the Zuk Mod which has been gaining popularity...hit search for Zuk Mod and see if that interests you at all for the rear sag.
Old 03-26-2010, 04:04 PM
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Wow, well that would cause some problems. You're lucky you caught it when you did!

What grade of bolts did you use for replacements? I do hope you got the best grade they had.

How's it driving now? I'm assuming that took care of your shaking problem?
Old 03-26-2010, 07:01 PM
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Yeah, a few more hours driving like that and no doubt my engine wouldve sheared the remaining 2 bolts and the drive shaft wouldve dropped clean off!

I used steel grade 10.9 bolts. specifically Metric 10 x 1.0 pitch in grade 10.9. They're the exact same thread at the old bolts which were original. 7 bucks for 4 bolts, nuts and lockwashers! What happened to .25$ a piece?!?!

Shes driving wonderfully now, and no more shaking.

Anyone know the specific tourque value they are supposed to be torqued to? We did them to 65 ft/lbs, but i dont rememeber exactly what theyre supposed to be.
Old 03-27-2010, 10:43 AM
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I think the specific torque spec is 'tight'. Just kidding! I really don't know, but you should be very close with the 65 ft/lbs.

I'm glad to hear you didn't get some house hardware bolts for your ride! It's been known to happen. And yeah, high-grade bolts are not cheap!

Keep us posted on the ride!
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