JonnyD

I have been lurking around for a while looking for a solution, but I haven't found one that fits.
I was driving home one day and my radio turned off then my windshield wipers kicked on full blast then stopped. It was like I just turn my truck off and I couldn't get it to start back. I pulled over and popped the hood. The wire running from the 80A fuse to my battery was completely fried in two. I assume it fried and grounded out somewhere and then blew a fuse or resistor or something. I also noticed that the 15A efi fuse was blow. I put a new one in and it blew instantly. I had it towed home and it will not start. I changed that fuse again and it is fine, but all it will do it crank like it wants to start, but there is no gas. I sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle body and it started right up then died.
I have changed the fuel pump and I took the dampener loose to make sure it was getting fuel in the rail and it is. I have checked the resistance in the COR, solenoid resister, and the main relay. I have also checked the VSV hooked up to the fuel pressure regulator and it did not do what it said it was supposed to in the service manual. Would that VSV being bad cause the injectors not to fire? I am pretty sure it is something electrical, but I don't have much experience with all the electrical stuff. Any help is appreciate.
Thanks.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I bet you have a wire shorting somewhere. I would check alternator wiring while at it. Here is some on the steps I went thu on mine.

Go to #282 if I copy the post here not all links will work. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...6/index12.html

I used the Haynes Manual so I would start where those are listed.

JonnyD

Thanks for the quick reply. I will go and start checking the harness now.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

No problem. I hear that the alternator wire inside the harness is a problem. That has been one I have been able to avoid.

JonnyD

I checked the harness back passed where the wires are split for the injectors and everything looked fine. I checked all of the splits and they looked good. There was oil all over the wires. I cleaned them all up and taped them all back up. When I got everything back together I tried to start my truck and it started almost instantly. Ran for a few seconds then died again and now it is the same as before.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Those connections can look good and even pass a resistance check and still keep truck from firng.

You said it started for a moment. Reconnect your Air Flow Meter again and see if that is the problem.

JonnyD

Air flow meter?

RAD4Runner

Are fuse blowing and wires melting issue fixed? Yes, if it fires while cranking (Ign switch in Start position), but dies when Ign switch is released, could be MAF sensor. To isolate it try jumping 2 terminals of Fuel Pump test connector to bypass MAF. Location and schematic here.

JonnyD

I have fixed the melted wire with a proper gauge one and it hasn't been blowing the efi fuse. I have also tried the fuel pump jumper and that did not work either. I'm thinking it has to be something with the injectors not being ground correctly, but I have been in class all week and I will check them asap.

JonnyD

It has been a while, but for anyone that comes up with a similar problem. It was my ECU. It apparently got fried when that wire ground out. I put in another one and it started right up. Thanks for the help!

RAD4Runner

Cool! Good to know!. Thanks for the update and info that others could use in the future.