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88 22re wont drive above 35mph

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Old 05-18-2015, 07:07 PM
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It's the same color that was pictured. Greyish, cream color. Hah
Old 05-18-2015, 08:20 PM
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I have a proof positive fix for ya -- Weber 32/36 carb conversion kit with a fuel regulator. Yeah, I know I know, but someone had to say it.
Old 05-19-2015, 05:04 AM
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Ok; Your search begins to find an 88 ecu. Since the injector drive signal comes from the ecu, gets dropped by the resistor pack to the injectors. Your ecu only has half the output to start with, and the resistor pack cuts that down even more.
Old 05-19-2015, 06:18 AM
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I've done some searching already but I can't find a definitive part number for the ecu I need.

Edit: I've found two part numbers for the ecu. The first is 89661-35110 and the second is 89661-35130 (California spec).

Edit 2: well ive manage to confirm the correct ecu part number (89661-35110). Also, luckily enough, I found a used one on ebay for a decent price so I went ahead and ordered it. It should be here Thursday so check back for updates!!!

Last edited by T0Y0TA; 05-19-2015 at 08:53 AM.
Old 05-20-2015, 11:24 AM
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There's one on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-1989-Toyota-Pickup-89661-35210-ECM-ECU-/271572317615?hash=item3f3af8b5af&vxp=mtr
Old 05-21-2015, 03:13 PM
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Update!!
New ecu came in! I installed it, drove it around and its still very sluggish.
I checked the codes and this is what came up:
21 - Heated oxygen sensor (H02S) -front circuit
-Wiring, H02S, ECM
43 - Starter signal -circuit
-Wiring, ignition switch, ECM
52 - Knock sensor (KS) -circuit
-Wiring, KS, ECM


Well I know I don't have a knock sensor or an O2 sensor; nor, can I find the wiring for them. I tried using the wire colors off of the ecu to locate them in the engine bay but they don't seem to be anywhere. I know not having either of these will affect the way it runs and drives but would it make it drive as sluggish as it is?
As far as the ignition switch, the PO installed a push button to bypass the switch because he said he was having issues with it.
Old 05-21-2015, 05:22 PM
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wow; You are missing a lot of stuff. O2 sensor wire connector is under the driver seat. Knock sensor is on the passenger side of the engine block.

I bet that truck was running on open loop the whole time.

Start signal is for the start solenoid and goes to a bunch of stuff.

Does it go faster now?
Old 05-21-2015, 07:38 PM
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Lack of a signal from the knock sensor causes the ECU to severely retard the timing to be on the safe side to protect the engine from damage since the ECU is "flying blind" when it comes to knock detection. The retarded timing robs a lot of power.

Lack of an O2 sensor won't affect power as much, but will keep you from passing smog if that's an issue in your area.
Old 05-22-2015, 04:35 AM
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Can you see if the wiring has been cut for the Knock Sensor and Starter circuit? If that is the case, I would be tempted to just replace the Injector harness with a good one. On the 88 models, I forget how the wiring is connected to the computer harness for the O2. I know it runs under the drivers seat down thru the floor board into the exhaust pipe.

As far as the Ignition issue, I used Rads fix and never a problem. Cleaning the contacts on the Starter Relay helps, replacing the contacts in the starter, great connections and wiring can make a difference as well but even all of that I still had the clicking problem and used his fix https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ild-up-252300/

Here is the computer out of my 88, I looked at another 88 I have in the shop and it is the same number as well.
Name:  computer%201_zpsrvnpsm2n.jpg
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Last edited by Terrys87; 05-22-2015 at 04:42 AM.
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