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88' 22re Engine Problems??????

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Old 01-22-2008, 09:50 PM
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Angry 88' 22re Engine Problems??????

I got a 22re with an engine problem.. The problem is, that my motor starts to ping* and smoke when I go up steep hills. It is burning oil and have to put oil in, once in a while. I have no Idea whats going on but my oil guage is not working. My friend told me that I had to change my oil sensor/sender because I have an SR5 cluster because it wouldnt work. But this problem has been happening for a while what should I do????
Old 01-22-2008, 10:01 PM
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Perhaps a carbon build up on the pistons and head is holding enough heat to cause pinging. Try using Seafoam through the brake booster.. Or use higher grade gas, but the latter option is merely going to cover up the problem.

The burning oil, probably means you are leaking oil through past the piston rings- check out the compression to find out. Also could be the valve seals letting oil past. If your compression is good, then it could be your valve seals.
Old 01-22-2008, 10:02 PM
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My 22RE is very clean inside, does not burn oil, but still pings with 87 octane. I use 89 octane instead.
Old 01-22-2008, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rebel_soul
I got a 22re with an engine problem.. The problem is, that my motor starts to ping* and smoke when I go up steep hills. It is burning oil and have to put oil in, once in a while. I have no Idea whats going on but my oil guage is not working. My friend told me that I had to change my oil sensor/sender because I have an SR5 cluster because it wouldnt work. But this problem has been happening for a while what should I do????
Seafoam the block drain it out and put new oil & filter,you sound like you need a complete tune up-plugs,cap,wires,timing needs to be factory spec.
Are you running stock gears like 4:10 with 31's.31's should be with 4:56 gears and for sure the pinging up hill goes away.I run regular gas on my truck and I dont notice any pinging with my 88 22re truck.
Old 01-23-2008, 01:02 AM
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do all what has been suggested.

also check to see if the EGR valve is functioning properly.
extensive tune up. filters, timing adjust, pcv.
make sure coolant is good. coolant that does not remove heat well attributes to this.

pinging is caused by excess heat.
Old 01-23-2008, 09:20 AM
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From experience...

The compression test is a good idea, but it won't tell you anything about the condition of the oil rings. You have three rings on each piston; the oil, compression, and scraper. After alot of miles, the oil rings will tend to go first while the other two are still working fine. The oil rings being bad or having deposits on them will not give a good seal and cause blow by. Which sounds like what you have.

Check the condition of the PCV valve/hose and breather line on the valve cover for excessive oil to the intake plenum. Also, check the spark plugs for oil deposits.

Oil getting into the combustion chambers will kill the octane in your gasoline and subsequently cause pinging to whatever degree. Burning oil like that, it sounds to be to a high degree.

However, firstly you didn't mention the color of the smoke. ???? A leaking headgasket could cause all the same symptoms you describe.
Oil = blue smoke
Gas = black smoke
Coolant/water = white
Old 01-23-2008, 10:42 PM
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I have a bone stock 88' 22re 4x4 ex-cab 5speed. i did the whole tune-up before all this happened... I changed the PCV valve, EGR spark plugs and Lines, ditributor cap, OIL & Filter, and did timing. I probley seen blue smoke because i loose oil and my water isnt going down.

How do I check the EGR valve to see if its working properly???
What is sea foam?????
What is a good comperssion I should have????


Thanks People for the Help!!!!
Old 01-23-2008, 11:31 PM
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if the truck has cruise, disconnect the vacuum hose to the servo. its a long hose and easy to work with. if not find a suitable hose, that has vacuum at all times, ( when engine is running) there are 2 ports on the egr valve. disconnect the top one. now it is forced closed. if the problem goes away, and the egr valve is working properly, it should run good. apply vacuum. it should bog down the engine, at idle and kill it.
now, if the valve is stuck open, it will still bog down. you will have to unbolt it and clean it out. by applying vacuum and removing it, and you see a change, you have elimated this as a problem. if you hook it back up, and it bogs down, the actuator is faulty, or hooked up wrong. the actuator has 3 ports on it, and is round, and sits next to the valve, and hooks up to the valve, and to the throttle body, and to the intake manifold vacuum.

sea foam is a versitle additive sold at most part houses like napa. it comes in a can with a scrw on lid. it is used to clean out carbon, and will work good for using to clean the egr valve.

good compression will be 160-175 lbs. when doing this test, you look for consistant numbers, and numbers in this range. if #1 hole is 125lbs, and 2,3 and 4 are closer to 172lbs, there is a problem with #1 hole.

did you use NGK plugs part number 1233? if not, you need to remove what you have and install the 1233's
Old 01-23-2008, 11:39 PM
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maybe a knock sensor?
Old 01-23-2008, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Cacustom
maybe a knock sensor?
only if there is a code
Old 01-25-2008, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 80W90
if the truck has cruise, disconnect the vacuum hose to the servo. its a long hose and easy to work with. if not find a suitable hose, that has vacuum at all times, ( when engine is running) there are 2 ports on the egr valve. disconnect the top one. now it is forced closed. if the problem goes away, and the egr valve is working properly, it should run good. apply vacuum. it should bog down the engine, at idle and kill it.
now, if the valve is stuck open, it will still bog down. you will have to unbolt it and clean it out. by applying vacuum and removing it, and you see a change, you have elimated this as a problem. if you hook it back up, and it bogs down, the actuator is faulty, or hooked up wrong. the actuator has 3 ports on it, and is round, and sits next to the valve, and hooks up to the valve, and to the throttle body, and to the intake manifold vacuum.

sea foam is a versitle additive sold at most part houses like napa. it comes in a can with a scrw on lid. it is used to clean out carbon, and will work good for using to clean the egr valve.

good compression will be 160-175 lbs. when doing this test, you look for consistant numbers, and numbers in this range. if #1 hole is 125lbs, and 2,3 and 4 are closer to 172lbs, there is a problem with #1 hole.

did you use NGK plugs part number 1233? if not, you need to remove what you have and install the 1233's
I think I know what you talking about... Its a little black cannister thingy that runs off the intake hose....???
Old 01-25-2008, 07:04 AM
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What he's referring to is called the vacuum modulator in this blow up diag. in the FSM. You'll see it on the top/backside of the valve cover:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...18egrsyste.pdf

The compression can run anywhere between 142 and 171 psi and would be acceptable. The higher, the better, but all must be even or close to....as he said.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../6compress.pdf

When you changed the PCV valve and/or the plugs, was there any oil sludge in the PCV valve and hose or build up on the plugs?
Old 01-26-2008, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
What he's referring to is called the vacuum modulator in this blow up diag. in the FSM. You'll see it on the top/backside of the valve cover:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...18egrsyste.pdf

The compression can run anywhere between 142 and 171 psi and would be acceptable. The higher, the better, but all must be even or close to....as he said.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../6compress.pdf

When you changed the PCV valve and/or the plugs, was there any oil sludge in the PCV valve and hose or build up on the plugs?

Yeah.. there was oil sludge on the pcv valve thats why I changed it.... thanks for the link THook.
Old 01-27-2008, 01:07 PM
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Well, I hate to say it because I'd been in denial about myself for a while. Same thing.....PCV clogged. That is blow by and it needs to be addressed. I recently damaged some valves because of a failed timing chain, so since I'm pulling the motor I'm installing new rings. I believe you will need to be doing the same rather soon. There may be some band aids to keep you going, but I don't know how well they work and I wouldn't rely on them to be consistent. Blow by will cause nothing but trouble and sooner than later you'll have fuel and/or combustion gases mixing with your motor oil = motor damage.

Last edited by thook; 01-27-2008 at 01:08 PM.
Old 04-08-2008, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by thook
Well, I hate to say it because I'd been in denial about myself for a while. Same thing.....PCV clogged. That is blow by and it needs to be addressed. I recently damaged some valves because of a failed timing chain, so since I'm pulling the motor I'm installing new rings. I believe you will need to be doing the same rather soon. There may be some band aids to keep you going, but I don't know how well they work and I wouldn't rely on them to be consistent. Blow by will cause nothing but trouble and sooner than later you'll have fuel and/or combustion gases mixing with your motor oil = motor damage.
I finally did my compression test and it all reads similar to each other. The compression reads around 155psi. What should i do now.
Old 04-08-2008, 01:40 PM
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help?!?!
Old 04-11-2008, 11:52 AM
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You're back!!! Like....OMG!

Yeah.....hmmm....what to do. Well, have you looked at any of the other suggestions?
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