87 4WD truck with 22R stalling
03-09-2010, 02:37 PM
#1
87 4WD truck with 22R stalling
Befuddled:
Truck cranks up fine when cold, fast idles great. When motor warms up it lopes when idling. Has good throttle response when parked, no missing at all. Put truck in gear, give it gas, runs great...until you come to a stop and the engine stalls. Truck will not recrank unless you turn up the idle screw way up.
Timing checked OK
Plugs cleaned and wires checked OK
Choke heater checked OK
All vacuum lines triple checked OK
Dist cap and rotor replaced.
Truck cranks up fine when cold, fast idles great. When motor warms up it lopes when idling. Has good throttle response when parked, no missing at all. Put truck in gear, give it gas, runs great...until you come to a stop and the engine stalls. Truck will not recrank unless you turn up the idle screw way up.
Timing checked OK
Plugs cleaned and wires checked OK
Choke heater checked OK
All vacuum lines triple checked OK
Dist cap and rotor replaced.
03-09-2010, 05:30 PM
#2
87 22r 4wd m/t stalling at idle
Befuddled:
Truck cranks up fine when cold, fast idles great. When motor warms up it lopes when idling. Has good throttle response when parked, no missing at all. Put truck in gear, give it gas, runs great...until you come to a stop and the engine stalls. Truck will not recrank unless you turn up the idle screw way up.
Timing checked OK
Plugs cleaned and wires checked OK
Choke heater checked OK
All vacuum lines triple checked OK
Dist cap and rotor replaced.
*Posted here because most 22r's would be in this forum*
Truck cranks up fine when cold, fast idles great. When motor warms up it lopes when idling. Has good throttle response when parked, no missing at all. Put truck in gear, give it gas, runs great...until you come to a stop and the engine stalls. Truck will not recrank unless you turn up the idle screw way up.
Timing checked OK
Plugs cleaned and wires checked OK
Choke heater checked OK
All vacuum lines triple checked OK
Dist cap and rotor replaced.
*Posted here because most 22r's would be in this forum*
03-09-2010, 07:58 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is the dash pot working? If not the throttle will slam shut. It should "catch" the throttle lever and slowly return it to idle. It's hard to see as it is on the back of the carburetor.
03-10-2010, 09:55 PM
#7
Registered User
I have had some stalling problems in my truck. The first thing was the vacuum advance was blown causing the timing to be about 12* more retarded than it should be at idle, even though the base timing was set properly. It is easy to check, just make sure both diaphrams on the vacuum advance hold vacuum.
The other thing that caused idle problems was my fuel cut solenoid. It turned out I wired it backwards, but this gave symptoms very similar to what you are describing. The solenoid shuts off the idle circuit in the carburetor to prevent dieseling and overheating the catalytic converter when decelerating or decending a hill. To test it, unplug the four wire plug on the carburetor, turn the ignition on but do not start it, then plug it back in and see if you hear the solenoid click.
I also replaced the EACV (California smog control) because it appeared to be shorted. That seemed to make a little difference also. These things made a difference, but my truck still chugs a little sometimes. I think the carburetor needs some work.
A stuck EGR valve will also cause idle problems. When the engine is running, apply vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine will bog down or stall. This means the EGR valve is working properly.
The other thing that caused idle problems was my fuel cut solenoid. It turned out I wired it backwards, but this gave symptoms very similar to what you are describing. The solenoid shuts off the idle circuit in the carburetor to prevent dieseling and overheating the catalytic converter when decelerating or decending a hill. To test it, unplug the four wire plug on the carburetor, turn the ignition on but do not start it, then plug it back in and see if you hear the solenoid click.
I also replaced the EACV (California smog control) because it appeared to be shorted. That seemed to make a little difference also. These things made a difference, but my truck still chugs a little sometimes. I think the carburetor needs some work.
A stuck EGR valve will also cause idle problems. When the engine is running, apply vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine will bog down or stall. This means the EGR valve is working properly.
Trending Topics
03-11-2010, 08:05 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How about a vacuum leak in something that operates once it warms up? Like the BVSV valve that controls the EGR valve? The BVSV also controls the choke opener but it doesn't open up until it gets warm. Or the thermo valve and HAI diaphram in the air cleaner.
The high idle would be overcoming the vacuum leak.
The high idle would be overcoming the vacuum leak.
03-11-2010, 08:27 PM
#9
Registered User
03-16-2010, 03:51 PM
#11
I see where ur headed with idle mix screw but no its original carb never been rebuilt. Myyota I'm gonna check fuel cut solenoid Thurs. Thanx. Choke opener working fine.
03-20-2010, 07:02 PM
#13
Update: Fuel Cut Solenoid aka Idle Stop Solenoid tested bad. Called all autoparts in area, item discontinued per all parts store. Called dealer, $181.00!!! Autozone was $24.99 but like I said, item discontinued. Off to Ebay I went....As I started scrolling down it was $70, $65, $80 but then I see $15.95....SOLD! Now I'm waiting on part.
But I have 1 question. If this solenoid was stuck open would it cause my problems i was having?
But I have 1 question. If this solenoid was stuck open would it cause my problems i was having?
03-20-2010, 07:36 PM
#15
Registered User
Yours is probably stuck closed (not allowing fuel to the idle circuit), or the wiring going to it is not working. If it is stuck open, then it would idle good, but it would keep running a little after you shut it off, which is known as dieseling.
When you get the new solenoid, you might try removing the old one and touching the wires to the battery to see if it clicks. If it clicks, then the circuity is bad.
When you get the new solenoid, you might try removing the old one and touching the wires to the battery to see if it clicks. If it clicks, then the circuity is bad.
