87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed
08-15-2012, 09:46 PM
#1101
Ok,....most know my Idle Up for AC hasn't worked SINCE CREATION! haha......... And; so I had business in Long Beach... which drops my path RIGHT CROSS the street from Pick-Your-Part, Wilmington, CA... So I called and MY BUDDY WAS THERE, TODAY! Finally! haha... He's a manager with LQK(?) liquidators or something? Anyway.... Ran in and grabbed 8 AC and other VSV's, hahaa... Bunch of other things, too, and all in 45 MINUTES! I got that place down, I tell ya! haha.
Got home and did some work and then ran out and..........
I know, I know... big deal
... BUT IT IS TO ME! haha.. I've not had idle up through 2 used VSV's that have gone bad/broken off vacuum ports... etc. Kinda sux having to hold the gas pedal down every time I come to a stop... That, added to the fact that I'm hunting a very tricky/annoying gremlin where it's "idling down on hot restarts to 300-400rpm, then back up on it's own eventually"... it's nice to know EXACTLY what was wrong and that it's fixed
Right? lol....
Thanks for those who tried to/did help on that.... It LIVES!
Got home and did some work and then ran out and..........
I know, I know... big deal
... BUT IT IS TO ME! haha.. I've not had idle up through 2 used VSV's that have gone bad/broken off vacuum ports... etc. Kinda sux having to hold the gas pedal down every time I come to a stop... That, added to the fact that I'm hunting a very tricky/annoying gremlin where it's "idling down on hot restarts to 300-400rpm, then back up on it's own eventually"... it's nice to know EXACTLY what was wrong and that it's fixed Right? lol.... Thanks for those who tried to/did help on that.... It LIVES!
08-15-2012, 10:46 PM
#1102
Hey Chef.
I don`t know if this would help or not, just throwing out ideas, but have you tried doing the big three mod were you up grade the ground wires from the battery to the frame and to the engine ?. Also replace the wire from the fuse box to the battery with one thats two or three times heavier, the stock wire is not heavy enough to handle much of a load. Ive done this on my 4Runner and the lights no longer dim when I put up the back window, and I have a steady idle when warm or cold. From reading what you have done and everything you have checked, it seems more like an electrical to me than anything else.
Larry.
I don`t know if this would help or not, just throwing out ideas, but have you tried doing the big three mod were you up grade the ground wires from the battery to the frame and to the engine ?. Also replace the wire from the fuse box to the battery with one thats two or three times heavier, the stock wire is not heavy enough to handle much of a load. Ive done this on my 4Runner and the lights no longer dim when I put up the back window, and I have a steady idle when warm or cold. From reading what you have done and everything you have checked, it seems more like an electrical to me than anything else.
Larry.
Really appreciate you chiming in and trying to help me out. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious... It's just difficult at times, because I've TESTED EVERYTHING on this rig... And nothing obvious pops up! (that's why I keep thinking my Dizzy/Coil/Wiring in Harness to Injector Y's/something like that is the culprit! haha)... Ok, .... on the 'BIG 3'.....
1. I have a brand new 4AWG wire Ground to the Block.....
2. I have a brand new 10AWG wire to the chassis by the Fusible Link Box.....
3. I have a brand new 4AWG Starter Wire
4. I have a brand new 10AWG wire to the Chassis from the Head Block Plate.
5. I have a SERIOUS doubt I can remember which are the big 3!
6. Please don't tell everyone about #5?
hahahaha... JK>>>> * I actually am guessing that it's the Ground to Block, Ground to Chassis and Postitive to Starter.... And you said "Also put a 4AWG in the Fusible Link Wires place"... right? I thought that was one of the big 3 upgrades... Not the Starterwire.. But you can fill me in, k?
Hey, at least I got the AC Idle up solved, right?
08-16-2012, 12:36 AM
#1103
Registered User
Chef
I think you got it covered and then some. The reason its a good idea to replace the fusable link wire is because its to small to handle any kind of a load. If you follow the white wire from the alternator it goes directly to one side of the 80 amp fuse, then on the other side is that little tiny fuseable link wire that goes to the battery. So the battery is getting its charge from the alternator through that little fusable link wire, plus its sending the main power into the fuse box to run everything else electrical on your 4Runner, but its just to small to handle the load. And if you add a stereo system that makes it even worse. I would replace the fusable link with a 4 or 6 gauge wire and that will help the electrical / charging system out alot.
I have seen on a few trucks / 4Runners were the fusable link wire got so hot that it melted all the insulation off the wire and could have started a fire if it had grounded out. Replacing this wire on your 4Runner may not fix the problem your having, but it will fix a major weak spot in the electrical system.
I think you got it covered and then some. The reason its a good idea to replace the fusable link wire is because its to small to handle any kind of a load. If you follow the white wire from the alternator it goes directly to one side of the 80 amp fuse, then on the other side is that little tiny fuseable link wire that goes to the battery. So the battery is getting its charge from the alternator through that little fusable link wire, plus its sending the main power into the fuse box to run everything else electrical on your 4Runner, but its just to small to handle the load. And if you add a stereo system that makes it even worse. I would replace the fusable link with a 4 or 6 gauge wire and that will help the electrical / charging system out alot.
I have seen on a few trucks / 4Runners were the fusable link wire got so hot that it melted all the insulation off the wire and could have started a fire if it had grounded out. Replacing this wire on your 4Runner may not fix the problem your having, but it will fix a major weak spot in the electrical system.
Last edited by myyota; 08-16-2012 at 12:38 AM.
08-16-2012, 11:38 AM
#1104
YEP, .... I hear ya, Larry
I actually already had a spare 80A sector of the box open, wired removed and ready... It's just that I never got around to tearing it out(always got sucked back in by the gremlins/some other repair/ or installing some mod or part I'd found? haha...
I'm going to repair the Trailer wiring as well, mounting it back up to where it was on the Hitch/above the hoops. The wires are there... tucked them all up under the frame.
Trying to think of the best way to SECURE the 4AWG wire to that style crimp that's there.... Barely fits the 10AWG that's stock... So, guessing I'll try to bend the crimp into shape and then solder it in/then heat shrink over it right up to the bolt that secures the 80A fuse. Did you do this wire? How'd you get it to fit? I think I read some removed that crimp and just installed the wire with a new smaller hoop and right onto the bolt for the 80A Fastening?
I actually already had a spare 80A sector of the box open, wired removed and ready... It's just that I never got around to tearing it out(always got sucked back in by the gremlins/some other repair/ or installing some mod or part I'd found? haha...
I'm going to repair the Trailer wiring as well, mounting it back up to where it was on the Hitch/above the hoops. The wires are there... tucked them all up under the frame.
Trying to think of the best way to SECURE the 4AWG wire to that style crimp that's there.... Barely fits the 10AWG that's stock... So, guessing I'll try to bend the crimp into shape and then solder it in/then heat shrink over it right up to the bolt that secures the 80A fuse. Did you do this wire? How'd you get it to fit? I think I read some removed that crimp and just installed the wire with a new smaller hoop and right onto the bolt for the 80A Fastening?
08-16-2012, 07:11 PM
#1105
Registered User
Chef
What I did to connect the new 4 gauge was to remove the 80 amp fuse holder from the fuse box, then unbolt and remove the 80 amp fuse. You will see the brass plate that the power wire is crimped to, cut it off so that all you have is the brass plate. Now put the 80 amp fuse back into the fuse holder and bolt it and the new power wire back together and slip it back into the fuse box.
This is what the new power wire I made looks like. This one was a little short so I made another one that was about 4'' longer. You can also see in the picture that the copper connectors have different bolt hole sizes, the larger one goes to the battery and the smaller one to the fuse.
http://
In this picture you can see were I flattened out the copper connector a little for extra clearance.
http://
What I did to connect the new 4 gauge was to remove the 80 amp fuse holder from the fuse box, then unbolt and remove the 80 amp fuse. You will see the brass plate that the power wire is crimped to, cut it off so that all you have is the brass plate. Now put the 80 amp fuse back into the fuse holder and bolt it and the new power wire back together and slip it back into the fuse box.
This is what the new power wire I made looks like. This one was a little short so I made another one that was about 4'' longer. You can also see in the picture that the copper connectors have different bolt hole sizes, the larger one goes to the battery and the smaller one to the fuse.
http://
In this picture you can see were I flattened out the copper connector a little for extra clearance.
http://
08-16-2012, 08:26 PM
#1106
Yeah, that's what I had ready to bolt in... I used lil different connectors.... but same concept. I just never put it in hahaha.
I hear ya... it will rule it out/help either way
Thanks on the bolting it in part... I thought the crimp was welded to the plate.... Haven't looked at it in a while. The bolts on the spare one I had were REALLY frozen up on there.
I will do this asap.
PS> I'm uploading a video soon on how I mounted/am going to do the final mount for/ my A/C-vsv from the 84-86 Camry 4Cyl.... They mounted the VSV on the back firewall... which I think is FAR smarter... and I mounted mine to the pass. side fender well/used the AC Hard line securing clamp bolt hole.
I'll post it up soon.
hahaha. I hear ya... it will rule it out/help either way
Thanks on the bolting it in part... I thought the crimp was welded to the plate.... Haven't looked at it in a while. The bolts on the spare one I had were REALLY frozen up on there.
I will do this asap.
PS> I'm uploading a video soon on how I mounted/am going to do the final mount for/ my A/C-vsv from the 84-86 Camry 4Cyl.... They mounted the VSV on the back firewall... which I think is FAR smarter... and I mounted mine to the pass. side fender well/used the AC Hard line securing clamp bolt hole.
I'll post it up soon.
08-28-2012, 07:28 AM
#1108
Registered User
Hey Chef.
These last few threads are coming in handy (about the wiring) as I'm looking into doing a GM alternator swap. I haven't had that 80 amp fuse out of this truck in at least nine years, and maybe even never!!! I'll have to soak the hardware in 'fluidfilm' and hope for the best!
I've always wondered the purpose of those valves with the vacuum hoses that are on top of the valve cover. I've always just plugged them back in and hoped for the best! Any idea on how to check the one that is in the rear near with the egr? Probably hard to tell without a picture.
Anyways, thanx for the video's and the info, the are very useful reference materials.
These last few threads are coming in handy (about the wiring) as I'm looking into doing a GM alternator swap. I haven't had that 80 amp fuse out of this truck in at least nine years, and maybe even never!!! I'll have to soak the hardware in 'fluidfilm' and hope for the best!
I've always wondered the purpose of those valves with the vacuum hoses that are on top of the valve cover. I've always just plugged them back in and hoped for the best! Any idea on how to check the one that is in the rear near with the egr? Probably hard to tell without a picture.
Anyways, thanx for the video's and the info, the are very useful reference materials.
08-28-2012, 10:50 AM
#1109
Hey man, .... thanks for the kind words! And I'M VERY glad it's useful to anyone... Sure makes it more worth it going through the journey of figuring things out, ya know? haha...
Yeah, the one on the rear, the FPR-vsv.... that's testable for sure. Same concept as the one I demonstrated... they're set up a lil differently. But with voltage, it should pass right through....and NOT through the basket unless you're testing a certain way. It's all in the FSM..... Just can't remember the page. PRETTY sure it's in the Haynes, too... The FPR-vsv, IIRC... is in the haynes, the AC-vsv is not?
'
Roger(4crawler) just deleted his. How his FPR works off alternating vacuum directly from the plenum. He's not had a hot soak issue in years. I deleted(for testing only) mine, ...didn't solve my hot start bogging down drama.
Think I did a video of how to hook up what Roger did(it's not needing of instructions, lol... I just like to keep track of everything I try, yeah? hehe).
I think the FPR itself testing out well is FAR more important, ..since you CAN just delete the FPR-vsv.
My smog guy, however, looks at the hood diagram and checks all the routing, etc. He would likely not razz me over that if I deleted it from the valve cover completely... Just stuck in my head that it's 'THERE FOR SOME REASON!' hahaha.
Rock on, ROCKGUY! lol.
Yeah, the one on the rear, the FPR-vsv.... that's testable for sure. Same concept as the one I demonstrated... they're set up a lil differently. But with voltage, it should pass right through....and NOT through the basket unless you're testing a certain way. It's all in the FSM..... Just can't remember the page. PRETTY sure it's in the Haynes, too... The FPR-vsv, IIRC... is in the haynes, the AC-vsv is not?
'
Roger(4crawler) just deleted his. How his FPR works off alternating vacuum directly from the plenum. He's not had a hot soak issue in years. I deleted(for testing only) mine, ...didn't solve my hot start bogging down drama.
Think I did a video of how to hook up what Roger did(it's not needing of instructions, lol... I just like to keep track of everything I try, yeah? hehe).
I think the FPR itself testing out well is FAR more important, ..since you CAN just delete the FPR-vsv.
My smog guy, however, looks at the hood diagram and checks all the routing, etc. He would likely not razz me over that if I deleted it from the valve cover completely... Just stuck in my head that it's 'THERE FOR SOME REASON!' hahaha.
Rock on, ROCKGUY! lol.
11-13-2012, 12:11 PM
#1110
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So... In conclusion, what did you discover was the cure to all these headaches? I seem to have the same symptoms. Run's good when first started, warms up to a low idle (4-600ish), sounds like a missfire, has the powerband from 25-3500ish....
Now, I didn't go through the entire top end of sensors and vacumms, etc... You already did that for me. lol. Call me lazy, whatever you want! ha. Just figure I could start where you found the root of your problem, maybe save me the time and hassle of going through everything!
Thanks, Ryan
Now, I didn't go through the entire top end of sensors and vacumms, etc... You already did that for me. lol. Call me lazy, whatever you want! ha. Just figure I could start where you found the root of your problem, maybe save me the time and hassle of going through everything!
Thanks, Ryan
05-16-2016, 05:24 PM
#1113
Need help #4 cylinder lost compression
I have an 88 22re I was drivin down the road and A cylinder went dead. It gave no sign Just went. Checked compression it had 65 pounds all the other ones check fine. No back firing or sucking back through exhaust, plug is firing and injector is workin cause It is blowing fuel smoke out the exhaust that'll burn your eyes. I don't smell oil burning the motor has never smoked the plug is burning like all the others. Not drownded in gas nor oil. No water in oil or steam like a head gasket. any ideas???
05-16-2016, 09:11 PM
#1114
Registered User
Pour some oil in the dead cylinder and repeat the compression test. The oil will temporarily seal up the compression rings if the rings are bad and give you a higher reading. If you pour in oil and repeat with the same 60-ish pounds result, look for a stuck valve.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by ROCKGUY76; 05-16-2016 at 09:12 PM.
05-17-2016, 03:49 AM
#1115
Pour some oil in the dead cylinder and repeat the compression test. The oil will temporarily seal up the compression rings if the rings are bad and give you a higher reading. If you pour in oil and repeat with the same 60-ish pounds result, look for a stuck valve.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
05-17-2016, 08:05 AM
#1116
Registered User
It will only smoke if the oil wiper rings are damaged. If the compression ring is damaged it will drop compression without burning oil. Easiest way to check is with the oil in the cylinder trick I mentioned before. Keep in mind that if the compression doesn't change after you pour some oil in the cylinder, then it could lead to another issue, like head gasket, cracked head, bad valves or even a hole in the piston. The next step would be to put a boroscope in the cylinder to physically see if there is any visible damage.
03-11-2024, 07:13 PM
#1118
Don’t know if help still needed
Hey Swimmer, good to hear from ya!
Well, I don't think it's a distributor issue, and I've replaced the Plugs, Wires, Cap and Rotor very recently. Seems to get fine spark and seems more likely to be emissions or fuel or vacuum OR ALL, related, lol. Could very well be the AFM, like the dealer guy I know thought...but even he sent it back because he couldn't find one to swap it out with. Could also be the TPS< I've heard some issues sounding like mine ending up being the TPS...but then others where it was a VSV...so it's really up in the air until someone STICKS THAT DONKEY! lol.
Well, I don't think it's a distributor issue, and I've replaced the Plugs, Wires, Cap and Rotor very recently. Seems to get fine spark and seems more likely to be emissions or fuel or vacuum OR ALL, related, lol. Could very well be the AFM, like the dealer guy I know thought...but even he sent it back because he couldn't find one to swap it out with. Could also be the TPS< I've heard some issues sounding like mine ending up being the TPS...but then others where it was a VSV...so it's really up in the air until someone STICKS THAT DONKEY! lol.
03-12-2024, 03:30 AM
#1119
did you check air gap for your pickup coil in distributor? Which engine do you have? If the 22RE the pickup is essential the ecm uses it as a crank signal. So even a slight misfire can cause some funny issues. The crank signal is also used to time and fire the injectors
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DacodaYota
Looking For A Mechanic/Fabricator/Shop
2
09-02-2015 02:13 PM
