fourthyota

OK...so I have SEARCHED and searched and can find only SOME items related to what's happening with my rig. I have an 87 4runner with 240K on the clock. When the rig is cold, the trans shifts just like it should. I have 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4, and O/D. NO O/D light flashing. Now drive it a bit (and it seems to take about 30 minutes) and then all of a sudden, it starts shifting from 1-3, and NO O/D. Like all of the electronic control drops from the trans. It will still lock up in 2nd gear, and I have been driving it like this and just shifting into D at about 40mph, but I still have no O/D and it makes city driving a pain in the ass. Plus when the trans "fails" but I still have manual control, I can drive for a bit, but then the O/D light will flash, but only once per second, and no codes. Just off and on rhythmically with no distinct pattern (i.e. 6-2). Today I parked her for an hour, came out, and had a fully-functioning trans again???? HELP!!!

Any ideas? I have dropped the pan, changed the filter, and checked the solenoids (OK). Why would it work GREAT, then crap out after fully warmed up? Temp sensors somewhere in play? I just don't want to "shotgun" the thing, and start throwing all new parts at it, but it is frustrating as hell! I am thinking of going back to my 170* thermostat to see if that helps things, and then start on temps sensors.

Anybody have a similar experience?

Thanks!

fourthyota

Can't believe nobody replied...even with "swap in a manual tranny". That will be the next step if I can't get it to behave. Ordered a replacement ECU for the tranny today, so we'll see if that works. This 4runner is my ONLY AUTOMATIC RIG EVER, and it may be my last. If the new ECU doesn't fix the problem, then it's a manual swap for me.

I'd be interested in hearing replies from those who have successfully done the swap on a 1st gen 4runner. I am planning on starting to chase some of the parts down to replace my A340H. I am assuming I'll be looking for a W series tranny/case combo, rear driveline, clutch master/slave, flywheel, clutch, and associated clutch hydraulic tubing. Question is....what else?

Is the bellhousing bolt pattern all standard off the 22re (meaning any W-series tranny from the same era should fit?) or are there fitment issues across different transmission versions?

Any help would be appreciated. I am holding my breath, hoping the ECU resolves the shift issues, because with my work/school schedule, the 4runner would probably be down all Summer for the manual swap, but in the end, I would rather be driving a 5-speed .

FYI...got some snow today.

maco35

I also have an 87 auto and love it, my tranny was acting up on me getting in and out of over drive on the freeway and shifting gears too fast on street surface. The cure to the problem was my TPS was out of adjustment, so I suggest that You do the same B4 you start replacing parts. Now my tranny runs really smooth since.

fourthyota

Thanks. Already replaced tps with new. Same issue. I appreciate the input.

fishtruck28

what motor? mine a 89 with 3.0 same trans, even looks the same as yours. mine did that once,., problem was the starter backed of and a small wire rubbed itself raw. after a little liqued tape and bolt tight problem solved instantly. ( i was crawling under the truck just looking if i was leaking trans fluid reached up to feel around the bell something moved looked it was the starter)

Kiroshu

Transmission fluid level over filled? Check fluid level after vehicle warm-up and driving vehicle around after 5-10 mins with truck running.

Automatic transmission fluid not being cooled properly. Dirty and or resticted transmission cooler or radiator?

fourthyota

Kiroshu,

Fluid level measured both cold and warm. All in range.

Functional aftermarket Hayden cooler in-line with stock "radiator" cooler. Hot lines in, less hot lines out. Thought too that this might be it, but turns out not. Also, was dumping directly into 3rd gear (standard BS functioning), but when pulling this big hill near my house, started magically working again...? Drove into town, parked for an hour, came out, drove fine (fully functional, 1-2-3 O/D working) then stopped for snacks, now 1-3 with no O/D

What about pressures inside the tranny? I guess the "H" in A340H is for hydraulic, but how do I measure/control pressures?

Thanks!

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

You say it just flashed a steady 1 sec blink but no code. I think that IS the indication there is a problem. it should only flash a code when you short the proper connector to ground (on the drivers side inner fender near the coil) it shows which one in the FSM. Mine would flash a steady flash like you describe after I drove about a mile after shutting it off. It wasnt until I shorted the test plug (NOT THE SAME ONE USED TO CHECK THE "CHECK ENGINE" light) that I got a code and found out that it wasnt getting any input from the speed sensor in my speedometer.

Kiroshu

Interesting....Restricted throttle body cooler passage/line(s)? The TPS plays a huge roll in transmisson function and operation according to throttle angle.

You can tap into the transmisson with a pressure gauge and monitor readings while driving according to the FSM but its a hassle and sometimes doesn't get you the answer you need. IF the transmission is operating properly "most" of the time its prob not a "prssure" issue since its more intermidate.

Anyfluid under pressure to do work is hydraulic so nothin special about the trans number ^_^.

Not 100% famialiar with the toyota automatics... Its possible that second gear and over drive are on the same circut.... However i am not entirely sure.

I have however had a truck "in the past" that had a transmission problem and it would not shift into gears properly with heavy electrical loads(Head Lamps, radio, blower, ect) and i would have to remove the loads for the transmission to continue into the next gear properly. Because the transmissions in the old yotas were so electrically dependant.

Turned out the problem was an incorrect alternator... vehicle had an alternator for a manual truck in an automatic truck. Cured the problem but it may not be the same with yours however possible.....

Kiroshu

Damaged speed sensor is very possible didn't think about that ^^^

Kiroshu

Weird now that i think about it at the shop i work at a guy had ford taurus that would shift fine at first start of the day but as he drove it more that day the speedometer and the trans would drop off completely intermidately and he would have to crawl around town going a few miles an hour.

Checked the computer for codes and there was one code present for the VSS(Vehicle Speed Sensor) sure enough went looking under the car for it and the sensor was covered in oil from the right bank(rear) valve cover leaking onto it. Clean and replaced VSS and cover seal.... Never saw car again.

fourthyota

OK...NOW you may have hit on something. Does the throttle body send temp info (hi or low) via the TPS? (thereby shutting off some kind of electrical control to the tranny) When I got the rig, MUCH of the plenum, throttle body, and vacuum lines were completely hosed up. (And I am still not sure if they are 100%) I will re-visit the throttle body, and go over it again. Is there a coolant flow diagram anywhere to be found?

Thanks!

fourthyota

You are correct. I KNOW that the steady flash is indicating that there is a problem. Here's the sequence of events:

1. Start out in the morning, everything is cold (20-30*)
2. Drive 30-40 mins, everything OK, shifts like it should, have overdrive.
3. Stop at a light, go to take off, goes from 1st to 3rd in either drive or 2nd position. NO OVERDRIVE
4. After driving like this a bit, O/D light will start it's "once every second" flash of doom.

Tell me the spot for the shorting of the connector on the driver's side, because I was trying to short the interface connector on the passenger's side, and gettin' nothin' in the way of codes

fourthyota

22re. Thanks fish. I will check connections at the starter. Trying anything now to help make it right.

fourthyota

UPDATE! Located the elusive "DG Connector" and pulled an error code 63 (#2 Solenoid).

I'll be checking resistance at the ECU connector next. Installed a bit of a pigtail at the end of my grounding wire, so I can connect at any time...



Also checked coolant line routing at the T/B, and remedied some line issues from the PO.

Did have time to clean her up a bit today...
Still got rear bumper ideas rattling around in my head...



Thanks to all for the tips and assistance. Will be troubleshooting the #2 solenoid tomorrow. At least it's narrowed down somewhat.

fourthyota

#1 and #2 solenoid replaced. Drives like a new truck. Should have just replaced 'em both from the start, but here's why I didn't:

Solenoids all made clicking noise when power put to them.

Solenoids all displayed proper resistance when ohm tested.

Did not yet have an error code displayed. (hadn't found the right connector yet)

So, I guess the moral of the story is: even if you have some of the troubleshooting items pointing to WORKING solenoids, get a code from your ECT and TRUST IT!

After replacement of 1 and 2, I cleared the ECT codes, and was rewarded with a steady flash every .5 second. Success!!

Here's a look at the OEM vs. "Universal" solenoid replacement.




These I got from Bulkpart.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...e=A340solenoid

...although I believe you can find the same kit cheaper on Ebay.

I did find that jumping leads on the "diagnostic interface" on the passenger side did NOT report any codes, and I ended up searching (and eventually finding) what Toyota calls the DG Connector on the driver's side near the coil.

So a serious thanks for all the help with this issue. You guys rock!

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

Glad you found the DG connector! I searched forums for days and never found anything about it. Finally got frustrated and started shorting things out by the coil! lol not recommended but I found it!

I dont have any codes but I have thought of changing my solenoids too. Mine shifts ok but seems like it doesnt shift as well as I think it should.

fourthyota

Mine is an absolute pleasure to drive now. Accelerates nicely (it's still a 22re) but has overdrive. I can cruise 70mph at 2500 rpm, but in town is the best! Nice day today, so one arm out the window, and the other on the wheel.

You were right on about the "once per second flash"...basically telling me YES, dummy, you've got codes! Now you get to go and troubleshoot. It was kind of like a treasure hunt...here's your clue, go search for a while, now here's an ECT code, now troubleshoot some more (wiring resistance, connectors, etc...)

Funny thing is, when I pulled out the bad solenoid, it was STILL reading 12.9 ohms, and clicking away with 12V put to it

baldeagle922

Perhaps I can get a reply here being I've asked in my own post with no reply.

Two months ago I replaced the solenoids i have my a330h tranny. Everything was working just fine afterwards, well, up until a few nights ago. While driving home (55mph) it down shifted. OD light didn't blink never came on. I stopped the truck,restarted on my way. It changed 1-2-3 but wouldn't go to OD. Any suggestions as to what might be the problem?

fourthyota

Eagle,

Here's what's been happening with mine lately. Weird stuff started happening a while (2 months ago).

So I would cruise to work no problem, and home no problem...in the DAY time. Then at night I would be cruising home, put on the high beams (which I have wired with Hellas) and suddenly I don't have O/D. Also I can cruise with my low beams on, but run the heater fan, and it does the same thing. If I am cruising 60 mph, at 3000 rpm, I will either switch the high beams off, or turn the fan off, and it INSTANTLY shifts into O/D.

Also, when I come to a stop, with brights/fan on, it won't downshift into 1st, and I end up taking off in 2nd. So I looked up a new alternator at autozone today, and will be replacing that as a starting point. I am running about 13.7-13.8 volts running regular headlights with no fan, and 12.8-13.3 volts with the extra high beams/fan running. Not sure if the voltage drop is causing the shift errors, but that's where I am starting. I have a voltmeter on the dash that gives me continuous reading rather than the stock Yota idiot gauge.

BTW, I have swapped tranny ECMs and it presents with exactly the same symptoms.