slater442w30

Here is my 87 4-Runner that I bought for my wife to haul the dogs around in and some snow/sand wheeling, the 22re that was in it was bad, so I replaced it with a good used 22re, spent a lot of money on parts trying to make it run good enough to pull a hill with 4.30 gears, automatic, and 33's, and that was never going to happen. I was about to dump about a grand on gears for this truck when the tranny ecu died leaving only second and fourth gear. I already put on the 2 inch body lift on it when I bought it because I knew it was going to get a 3.4, I just planned on the 4 cylinder lasting longer than it did. Instead of wasting money on gears I spent that money on a 1997 4-Runner engine and trans that will make the truck move great without re-gearing.



you guys can feel free to make fun of the gay bumper the p.o. put on there, I am building some real bumpers for it, putting on sliders, disk brakes etc as money allows, engine is most important right now.

slater442w30

Here are some pictures of the engine and auto trans out of the 97 4-runner, I already put the 89-95 3.0 v6 4wd oil pan on it before the pics were taken, if you cant figure out that part by yourself without pics then dont attempt this swap by yourself.




This has 124,000 miles on it, I got a good deal from a wrecking yard I used to work at, they let me take the truck to my shop and run and test the engine and pull everything myself, and this is my fourth 3.4 swap and let me tell you, its the only way to go. I washed this up and am going to do a full tune to it, plugs, timing belt, water pump, oil change etc before It goes into the new truck.

slater442w30

here is some pics of the timing belt, now is the time to replace that stuff no matter what the old stuff looks like, You should do the timing belt, water pump, cam seals, crank seal, idler pulley and tensioner pulley because this is an interference engine, meaning, you lose your water pump or timing belt then your pistons hit the valves and break all of them off, then you screwed yourself because you wanted to save 150 bucks in parts . You can also see the 3.0 V6 lower thermostat/hose housing in this pic and see the old 3.4 style on the floor along with the 3.4 dipsitck which will be going away.



Here is an adapter I built today for the pivot plate, the metal adapter bolts onto the intake manifold and the red thing is the pivot plate, it holds the engine completely level and allows you to tilt it forward and backward, I have put three of these in swaps with the old chain method and it sucks so much ass to try to get this engine to sit level while marking and welding in motor mounts on a 4 cylinder frame that you cut all the old brackets off of. I used all 5 intake manifold bolts for the adapter plate, the more the better.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

That plate is something you might want to consider building and selling, or patenting and selling to ORS? Just an idea. Good pics!

*subscribing* casue im doing the swap on an 86 5sp

stormin94

Maybe you should consider a manual tranny swap as well.

Dan.3

why

Dan.3

I will be right behind you doing my 3.4 swap into my 88 4runner. I will be using the 340h behind it. Cheaper. I agree on replacing all the timing components. Why not. the engine is out and is alot easier to work on instead of doing it later in the engine bay. just alittle fyi the 3.4 is NON-interference.

Hayes

Some people are under the impression that manuals are better off-road. I prefer autos, but each have their pros and cons.

slater442w30

I was told by the toyota dealership that it was interference, maybe they were just trying to sell me more parts by scare tactics, I have mitchell at the shop (which sucks ass) and it doesnt even say, but thats fine, as a mechanic I cant put an engine in a rig not knowing if it will fail in a week, I would rather not know if it really is non interference or not, the last engine I scattered was supposedly non interference but it broke all the valves, better safe than sorry. And the auto in a a toyota kicks ass, my 89 uses to be a 5-speed, it wheels so much better and nicer now, going up the dunes I can crawl, dont have to shift, up in the snow I can just creep up hills that my friends have to tach it out and drive like they stole it just to get up. And the wife will be driving this, if it was a stick she could not drive it, we already tried that, I am not pushing the issue, I like staying married to a happy woman.

mt_goat

Nice truck and motor. Interesting that you use the 3.0 thermostat housing. Do you also use the 3.0 thermostat, it is a little smaller isn't it?

slater442w30

I use the 3.4 thermostat, the thermostat stays in the water pump, since its a 3.4 water pump it fits snug in there and the outer housing just fits flat against the thermostat, the others I have done have a lot of miles on them, no problems with the neck or stat or heating issues at all. It just works better to use that housing and a 3.0 lower hose to keep everything toyota and available instead of some special ors only hose that you probably have to buy in a kit.

mt_goat

Good idea, I've wondered what I'd do if I blew that special lower radiator hose provided by ORS. Now I know.

slater442w30

Toyota.....what a feeling.

I try to only use genuine toyota parts, aftermarket parts suck. Here is my Toyota Oil filter, spark plugs and 95+ T-100 3.4 oil dipstick and tube and block adapter, as long as your block is 99 or older it should have a spot on the side for the dipstick adapter, if not you can drill out the hole. Also you need to run the dual electrode spark plugs that toyota tells you to run by the big sticker on the front of the engine, I had single electrode plugs in my truck for a while and it was setting misfire codes, the spark was jumping to the head instead of the other electrode that it was looking for, and the only place I have found out of 6 local parts sellers is straight from toyota, and factory denso plugs are less than NGK plugs from napa.

And since we replace the contacts in at least two toyota starters in the shop every week I decided to replace these while the engine was out, good thing I did, they were almost gone, very cheap and easy to do without the engine in the truck.


Here is my pathetic excuse for exhaust, it looks like crap but will do the job, I am too poor to afford the ORS pipe which looks to be made out of too large of tube anyways, it costed me about 6 dollars and a few hours of labor and a 2 litre of mt dew. Now for a tricky part and some people on here will call bull but the headpipe on this engine and the whole factory exhaust is 1 7/8 inch pipe. Now there is a reason for that, I found out the hard way. On my 89 pickup 3.4 swap we made the head pipes off the engine out of 2 inch pipe then necked it up to 2 1/2 inches all the way back and that is causing not enough back pressure and also causing knock sensor codes, I replaced three Ecms (800 each remans), two sets of knock sensors and wires (350 each time, thats my shop cost on parts) and couldnt fix the problem, I finally let my college ASE course teacher use it as a case study and came down to the conclusion that the sensors arent seeing enough knock or "detonation" due to the lack of back pressure and causing the ecm to not see the sensors to know they are working, hence causing the problems, thats why it pops codes upon startup, not when driving, its doing its system checks and not seeing them. So in short, bigger pipe is not better, and leave the cat converter in when you go to obd2 computer, it needs to see the exhaust being cleaned at the second sensor or it will think the truck is running really rich and lean it way out and maybe fry a piston and cause runnability problems.




And for motor mounts you need the block mounts off an 89-95 3.Slow, I am going to try the frame mounts from Ors.


And for the Air conditioning I cant do like the 89 and use old parts to make it work, this will involve a bit more, I am keeping the 97 Runner compressor and bracket and will just have new hoses made to match the 87 runner evap core.

And I am going to run the inchworm auto taco to gear drive case adapter on this with a gear driven case, so now is the best time to strip the transfer case and go through it and re-seal it.

Dan.3

[QUOTE=slater442w30;50655109] I finally let my college ASE course teacher use it as a case study and came down to the conclusion that the sensors arent seeing enough knock or "detonation" due to the lack of back pressure and causing the ecm to not see the sensors to know they are working, hence causing the problems, thats why it pops codes upon startup, not when driving, its doing its system checks and not seeing them. So in short, bigger pipe is not better, and leave the cat converter in when you go to obd2 computer, it needs to see the exhaust being cleaned at the second sensor or it will think the truck is running really rich and lean it way out and maybe fry a piston and cause runnability problems.
QUOTE]

Correct me if im wrong but i was under the impression that the second o2 sensor behind the cat was just to monitor the cat. I had an interesting experience with an o2 sensor on an 88. My buddy has one and for the longest time he has had been driving with the o2 sensor "hanging out" so to speak. Never had a problem. Then he came across an idler issue. Then he had to reset his timing. Well after he reset his timing he truck ran like crap. It would be running fine and then die out. Ran the cel code and had the O2 code. For the hell of it he tac welded the sensor back into place truck has been running fine since. So the first O2 is for the air fuel mix and the second is to monitor that cat for polution purposes. Would it be possible to hook your car up to a laptop and monitor the air fuel mix with and with out the second o2 connect to see if it really makes a difference???

89 toy

you have to use the 3.4 mounts with the ors frame mounts that is what they told me when i got mine. i used a bottom radiator hose of a 22re had to cut an inch or so off but it worked perfect.

slater442w30

well the guys at ors told me to use 3.0 mounts, I am gonna be pissed off if I have to go repaint another set and tear those sumbitches off there again because of their info, and for the O2 sensors, I have the scanner at the shop and it watches both sensors, the second sensor doesnt have as much activity because the gas/exhaust mix that is hitting it has been cleaned by the cat, and if it isnt, then the ecm thinks that the truck is running rich. Now for your 88, that is an old truck, its obd0 (if I am not mistaken), it isnt very smart, hell, the 87 runner went a month without an o2 sensor, never flashed a code, didnt run any different with it hooked up, now the newer computer, thats a different story. My other 3.4 swapped truck had the rear 02 sensor go bad on it, that thing ran like absolute crap, popped a code instantly, cleared the code, came right back, then put another sensor in it and it ran perfect again, so yes it needs both sensors.

Dan.3

good to know thanks

slater442w30

Got the old 4 cylinder engine and tranny out tonight, now to chop off the old motor mounts and prep the frame for the new ones.

Anybody need an older automatic???

Yummy

SAY GOODBYE TO MY LITTLE FRIEND


The 22re has been sold and all the injection is gone.

slater442w30

nothing like a good ol day after thanksgiving junkyard trip. Went out today and chopped the 3.0 frame mounts off the junkyard 89 4-runner, I also got the torsion bars out of the 3.0 runner since the old 4 cylinder torsion bars are smaller in diameter and will probably not like the new engine. I have the ORS frame mounts but didnt like them very much and wont be using them, the Toyota mounts will be easier for me to place in the right spot on the frame to make everything line up better.
Here are some pics of the junkyard mounts in the truck to help other people to know where they are supposed to be mounted and how they sit,

Jay351

Great work!

Now, when are you going to do mine? Looks like you have this swap down pat!