Thehands

Hi. I have a red lifted 1987 22rtec. Its my first toyota and its a project. I have a 1987 22rt-ec (turbo, ca) and it is running rough. I just swapped in the origional engine since the replacement had two bolts holding to the transmission. Basically new old engine was put in and i cannot find the problem the valves have not been checked since i dont want to run it long enough to warm it up. The timing chain is new. Im drawing blanks and i have been looking for a few weeks but i cannot find my problem. Thank you in advance the youtube video is 45 seconds long. Any help would be appreciated.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

YouTube is not the right tool, try https://instaud.io instead since your aren't "showing" us anything. Having a visual graph of the audio is more helpful we can actually see missfiring.

Sounds like a bad turbo. It has the clattering, ringing metal on metal sound.

Pop the intake off the turbo inlet and inspect with a mirror and flashlight for contact damage of the compressor and housing.

You can set the valve adjustments while cold, just set them 1-2 thousandths looser.

Also correct the timing to 5° BTDC, yes even with the engine cold.

Thehands

https://youtu.be/vtzcPfTqGzo
So the site you said i wasnt able to upload it. Thank you for your suggestions i willl try them tonight. I also noticed i was talking throughout the video so uploaded one with out talking.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Link

I can't clean up the audio without my PC's but it's good enough to point out some things.

the taller sharp lines that is the cylinders firing, note the even constant spacing and amplitude. If it was a typical misfire these would drop off to about midrange with a more distinct line (combustion outside of the chamber) or drop out completely (no ignition at all).

(Ignore the "dropout" about 3/4 thru the audio, that's the mic getting obstructed as the throttle is about to move)

Below the lower quarter / eighth is the rod noise and some exhaust.

Now about midway into the audio, see the fluctuations in the lower quarter, this is "ringing" I hear. And again during the revving at around 40seconds.


​​​​​​....Sorry kind of entertaining myself above...

Did you inspect the bottom end, timing chain, and camshaft before you put the engine in? Fresh oil and filter?

After the visual inspection, check for shaft play on the turbo. You should have zero thrust movement (fore and aft), and very little radial movement (up-down, left-right). Press down on the end of the shaft and slowly rotate the compressor wheel, if it even lightly touches the housing Stop your turbo needs repaired

Thehands

https://youtu.be/qIX0oiZCeLI
I cleaned the egr and it runs slightly better timing chain is good to go 100% new. I woll do the valves tomorrow after work.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You could have a bolt out of place? wrong length in the "right hole" will interfere with the timing chain. Which provides the metal on metal ringing sounds.

The upper middle oil pump bolt. Listed below as 35mm length.

Thehands

I have the same 5 bolts that were in there in the first place ill check it tonight.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I think you can get eyes on it with the valve cover off and not have to pull the bolt to check. It'll stick into the void behind the cover about an inch.

PS. for more RTE people here

Thehands

So its definetly the correct bolt in there the rattling starts at 2000 rpm and and the timing chain is a ok could a spun bearing sound like that? It sounds good even under 2000 rpm but any and all above that is prety bad sounding

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

hunt that hammer wielding gremlin down!
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html

And an oil pressure gauge would not hurt either

Thehands

So ill be trying to pickup a few things tomorrow a conpression tester to be safe a mechanics stethoscope but i cant really afford a 120 gauge when mine is most likely unplugged ill try to troubleshoot tomorrow when i get the tools thanks for the help ill probably be here tomorrow with the diagnosis if everythibg goes well tomorrrow wish me luck.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

http://www.harborfreight.com/electronic-triple-auto-gauge-set-41017.html

They have another one for about 10$ more that is just the oil gauge with a handful of fittings. That may or may not be better. I have the triple I linked and wasn't thrilled with the nylon tube and fittings. But compression fittings and me don't really get along, I couldn't get the engine side ferrule to cinch up on the line.

It's worth the extra ten bucks thnget the test kit, you'll spend that on a proper line and fittings.

ps. If you're suspecting rod knock from a spin or failed bearing it's worth the effort and cash to drop the oil pan and inspect. Way cheaper than a new crankshaft.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Any updates?

Thehands

So ive been snowed in with only motorcycle as transportation and a mechanics stethoscope is in the mail, i finally got a timing light and a compression tester just to be on the safe side. I hooked up the timing light and got it timed correctly before it wasnt. All the way advanced was 1-2 degrees off but now its right at 8-9 degrees advanced. Tomorrow im going to the valve lash hopefully thats it. But no its not fixed yet nor have i pulled the pan to see about the bearings. I need to replace the oil if thats it and I cant go down until 3-4 feet of snow dries up l. Safe enough for me ride 15 miles to town at least. No oil so im hoping its the valves. Just to be clear the compression tester is for my tool collection i think my buddy blew a head gasket and its a good tool to have. Probably should have bought oil with my tools, oh well hind sight is 20-20

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I can't blame you one bit over that kind of delay, you can't hardly get me to go from the house to a preheated car and I'm surely not going out to handle cold tools if it's below 40 much less lay in snow.

see you in late spring

Thehands

so i fixed the head gasket issue that i didn't know i had. but if anything the sound has gotten worse than before. i uploaded it to youtube and yah any help would be great. Does a whole in the EGR system cause some of my symptoms? I also plan to do the TPS soon but thatll have to wait until i can get it running properly without the grinding/rattling around in a can sound thats happening right now thanks.

Thehands

basically i am hoping that i hooked up a coolant line to a oil line or the intake if there are common ones to check could you point them out on a diagram?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You never reported on how the turbocharger looked.. It's water cooled, oil lubricated and very prone to cracking. So if the water jacket is compromised it will drain into the oil pan..

I'll see about getting pictures for you I think it's still nasty cold outside.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

In case it's not clear in this first one the hose that disappeared behind the hex shaped elbow at the upper center of the image attaches to the elbow it's hiding behind.
Oil cooler, forward hose to elbow, rear hose to pump output.
​​​​​The oil cooler if damaged will mix oil and coolant!
air valve. If damaged may leak coolant into intake.

forward hose loops down and connected to water pump outlet. (Hides a bit behind the intake support)

Rear hose from air valve,loops up to intake bypass chamber. Note the shiny end cap of the fuel rail. Just above the fuel rail is the end of bypass hose #2, which loops around the thermostat housing, it can be seen just below the throttle sensor from above. (The far end of #2 is the vertical one you asked the elbow part number, and is for sure correctly attaches at both ends)

PCV valve and brake booster lines to upper intake chamber. Heater hoses into firewall, not shown is the supply hardline that wraps around the cylinder head and attaches to the middle of the lower intake (below the coldstart, below the dash temp gauge sender)

Not pictured are, the exhaust side hose that supplies the turbo and it's return line. Lol, I'll take that elbow off and snap a photo but you'll have to bribe me with a new silicone elbow to replace the OEM one.. it's easier to pull the whole exhaust and turbocharger than get that sob cracked brittle elbow back on with it in the engine bay.. you have these hooked up correctly, aswell as the crank case vent as seen in the video..

Thehands

Thank you for the pictures they allowed me to see that i had a breather hose and a coolant line swapped. I also got around to checking out the turbo. the shaft has a little side to side so i think its bad if i remember correctly, The exhaust housing has a crack on it. I have two turbo bust turbos and im hoping to be able to piece one together that will last a little while. I am on a shoestring budget (think like a really poor college age budget) so ill probably call around and see if someone can fix the two housings i have for cheap and try to see if the other shaft with no side to side play, the one that wasn't in the truck, will fit with the housings i just took out of the truck. or if there is a housing that is cheaper than getting one repaired please post it or send it to me in a message or something thanks. like something cheaper than 150$ i found this and i might end up doing the ebay route. its way more than i wanted to spend on an exhaust piece. has anyone bought this piece it looks like everything would line up. Id rather not have to do this for at least another year if i can help it. thanks for looking.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-22RET-Turbo-Housing-CT20-Trucks-4Runner-Pickup-Xtra-Cab-Housings-1985-95/282307722845?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkpa rms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3 D41451%26meid%3Ded23bcc20a12459fa38d9fff55f7431a%2 6pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D2917668171 26
and this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2620228...&ul_noapp=true