87 22r prepurchase questions
#1
87 22r prepurchase questions
All, I am considering the purchase of an 87 5 speed 22r pickup. The current owner says it has 2 deficiencies:
1. very minor radiator leak (i can fix that)
2. he says the 'clutch slave cylinder o-ring' leaks a little.
I've never replaced a clutch slave cylinder, but they seem to only cost about $30. Is it easy for a moron to replace? If I do replace that, should I also replace the clutch master cylinder as well (or anything else while I'm at it?)
Or, can i just replace the so-called o-rings?
Again, I haven't bought this truck yet; its a long drive just to go and look at it. Anything I should look for that would be indicative of a larger, more expensive problem?
Any advice will be appreciated.
1. very minor radiator leak (i can fix that)
2. he says the 'clutch slave cylinder o-ring' leaks a little.
I've never replaced a clutch slave cylinder, but they seem to only cost about $30. Is it easy for a moron to replace? If I do replace that, should I also replace the clutch master cylinder as well (or anything else while I'm at it?)
Or, can i just replace the so-called o-rings?
Again, I haven't bought this truck yet; its a long drive just to go and look at it. Anything I should look for that would be indicative of a larger, more expensive problem?
Any advice will be appreciated.
#2
Registered User
have him start it and make sure you don't hear any knocking in the bottom end of the motor mainly towards the rear of the motor. The #4 rod bearing like to go in them. Top end tapping is ok and is somewhat of an easy fix. About $125-150 from a mechanic to re-lash the valves. Or you can do it yourself if you know how to use feeler gauges. But its a pricedrop consideration to get the guy to drop the price.
However if you hear tapping/rattling in the front of the motor its the timing chain which is a little more involved to fix and probably quite costly at a mechanic shop.
However, there are many guides on here which people have put up to help guide you through. 92 TOY's got to start somewhere thread comes to mind. I guess he would claim himself to be one of those "morons" when he first got here and almost no mechanical knowledge. But, maybe I should have him speak for himself.
Another thing to look out for which is an easy/cheap fix is the fan clutch. If the engine is cold you should hear the fan clutch spin up the fan and then a short while later you should hear the fan get quiter.
By 22r I am going to assume you mean carburated. The fuel pumps on them like to tap as far as I know as well, but yet another easy cheap fix. The fuel pump if carburated is located on the front passenger side of the cylinder head.
Check for leaks/tears around the CV boots (front axle) if 4wd.
Check the oil make sure its not low, milky in color or this may surprise you, perfectly clean which would indicate a very recent oil change. I never like when someone sells a car and advertises it has had a recent oil change. People like to do this to mask the fact a head gasket/timing chain etc problem.
Check for a smoking exhaust.
Check the rear leaf spring hanger area, mainly the front hanger on the leaf spring, this is where the Toyota frame likes to rust out and split the frame. I got lucky when I bought mine in that I didn't check for this and it was repairable. Cost me $150 for both sides to be welded up to reinforce the frame.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I hope someone else here can confirm myself or add other things I may have missed.
However if you hear tapping/rattling in the front of the motor its the timing chain which is a little more involved to fix and probably quite costly at a mechanic shop.
However, there are many guides on here which people have put up to help guide you through. 92 TOY's got to start somewhere thread comes to mind. I guess he would claim himself to be one of those "morons" when he first got here and almost no mechanical knowledge. But, maybe I should have him speak for himself.
Another thing to look out for which is an easy/cheap fix is the fan clutch. If the engine is cold you should hear the fan clutch spin up the fan and then a short while later you should hear the fan get quiter.
By 22r I am going to assume you mean carburated. The fuel pumps on them like to tap as far as I know as well, but yet another easy cheap fix. The fuel pump if carburated is located on the front passenger side of the cylinder head.
Check for leaks/tears around the CV boots (front axle) if 4wd.
Check the oil make sure its not low, milky in color or this may surprise you, perfectly clean which would indicate a very recent oil change. I never like when someone sells a car and advertises it has had a recent oil change. People like to do this to mask the fact a head gasket/timing chain etc problem.
Check for a smoking exhaust.
Check the rear leaf spring hanger area, mainly the front hanger on the leaf spring, this is where the Toyota frame likes to rust out and split the frame. I got lucky when I bought mine in that I didn't check for this and it was repairable. Cost me $150 for both sides to be welded up to reinforce the frame.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I hope someone else here can confirm myself or add other things I may have missed.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 02-01-2010 at 11:48 AM.
#3
wow.. thanks for such a detailed and informative reply. Some the things I knew about (milky oil, for example) but others I had no idea about. I know that a timing chain is a real bear.. (i had my first experience w/ that in 1984 in my 72 corona)
i will take your advice on the various knocking and rattling sounds.
i will take your advice on the various knocking and rattling sounds.
#4
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The steel fuel line on top of the gas tank just went on mine (common problem) so if you live in an area that's wet a good part of the year it would be a good thing to have a close look at. Not only is it not a cheap fix if you get caught with a leaky gas tank you can be forced to go through a safety inspection.
As for replacing the clutch cylinders it's pretty much as simple as it looks. It's handy to have a vacuum pump for bleeding the lines.
As for replacing the clutch cylinders it's pretty much as simple as it looks. It's handy to have a vacuum pump for bleeding the lines.
#5
Registered User
if everything sounds good, don't let 150,000+ miles on it scare you either. the 22r is a pretty resilient motor. I drove almost 5000 in a full year up a mountain to work before that rod bearing knock i had mentioned finally took out the bearing. who knows how long it was rapping before i bought the truck.
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