1badtoy

Last night I put my fuel tank back up into my 4runner. I had to put a new fuel pump bracket it in it because it was rotted to hell, as was the line off of the bracket and the truck main fuel line. I also put in a new sending unit because like an idiot I was rushing to get out of work last Friday and ran over the sending unit and fuel pump bracket (long story). So now is time to fire it up and all goes to to plan, runs and fuel gauge works. I had previously bled the brakes and the master with my buddy because we fixed two brake lines while we had the tank down (the 2 lines that run to the proportioning valve in the back were looking kinda crappy where the tank was). Well I got in to back the truck out and the pedal hits the floor... pull it back in and try bleeding it some more...nothing, tried bleeding the master too and nothing...Fluid streams out when you bleed the wheels and the master. It will start to get a little bit of a pedal if you pump them like crazy... I am thinking maybe a seal rolled in the master? Any suggestions? I am going to head out to pull the wheels and make sure I didnt loose a wheel a cylinder in the back. I could see the pistons moving on the front calipers which are new. I upgraded to early 90s v6 4runner calipers as per a friends suggestion.

Any help is appreciated it
-Mike

AnthonyVB

Did you ever figure this out I'm currently dealing with the same thing after nt 95 4runner SAS?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Wow that thread is 3 years old!!

Well what kind of brakes were used in your SAS

How many new connections did you make?/

Just what is your problem ??

No peddle ?? Can`t get them to Bleed??

Something wrong some place!!

What actions have you done to correct the problem??

AnthonyVB

I know it's 3 years old but I'm desperate, I'm using the stock 95 4runner calipers with fj rotors. I've bled and bled so much and still no pedal, bled the MC still nothing. Theres not really even any pressure coming out of the bleeder when I open it. The person who is helping me doesn't even feel the pedal move when I open the bleeder. I've bleed the rear lspv already, I did extend my lines and went with braided lines to the caliper everything setup right but I cannot figure it out. What I do know is everything was working before it sat for about months.

AnthonyVB

The pedal does move when I bleed the lspv but not when I bled the wheel cylindars

JonnyBoy

Tried raising the rod that actuated the lspv? The one hooked to the axle to the driver side of the third. If not, try that. If that doesn't work, you probably have a blockage in the lspv. By your description of the fuel components, that's what I'd suspect, but try raising the rod first. If that doesn't work, you have to decide one replacing the lspv or deleting it(the right way, with a manual proportioning valve, not just deleting it).

AnthonyVB

Here's a curveball I popped a whole in one of the lines coming from the LSPV while welding the rear shock hoop in, well I repaired the line and hooked the lines up correctly, or so I thought. Here's the weird part I bled the brakes before I repaired the line and disconnected the two lines going into the LSPV and there was pedal but after I added the compression fitting and connected the lines theres no pedal. So I switched the lines and the pedal started doing what it should when you bleed the brakes but it only would go down further when we bled the rear but when we tried the front the pedal didnt move when I opened the blender valve. Basically theres no pressure going to the front calipers the fluid is just running out not shooting out. If you follow what I'm saying that's the best i can explain it.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Someplace in your front brakes you have a connection that is drawing in air.

Are you sure you have the lines correct in the front where the connect for the LSPV??

Front brake pads new ?? Rear shoes adjusted up correct ??

Rotors and drums still in spec??

if the system is air tight and everything is working like it should the pressure should build when pumping the pedal .

Pure chance the Master cylinder failed??

Did you use new calipers??

Is it possible you get dirt in the system now blocking the line??

Kinked a line??

blocked bleeder valves.

*** Compression fittings should not be used on brake lines.

JonnyBoy

That part. Brake line isn't expensive, and it's pretty easy to bend and flare. Don't cheap out on the brakes, please.

AnthonyVB

New calipers new rotorsand rear drums have been correctly adjusted like I said this all started after repaired the whole in the line and disconnected the lines going into the LSPV. The MC worked before I parked it and worked the other day w mm before I punctured the rear brake line, it maybe possibly that the lines weren't correctly hooked up and I ruptured the seal for the front line in the MC, but that's what I'm going to test tomorrow.

AnthonyVB

I dont have a flaring kit and dont have the time to run a whole new brake line for the LSPV all the way to the front fender.

JonnyBoy

Well in the meantime, there is a way to bypass one of the lines going from the lspv to the front fender. Not sure which one, you'd have to trace it, but if you got a couple threaded plugs you could plug the junction at the fender and one of the ports on the lspv and still get pressure from the master(provided it's not the problem) to the rear brakes. Try searching for "lspv delete" and I think one of the write-ups/threads should identify which line is the "return" line from the lspv to the front.

Good luck, and I hope you don't think I was being rude earlier. I just think you've always got time to make sure that the biggest safety feature of the vehicle is in proper working order and not just rigged "good enough."

AnthonyVB

Thanks for the help I'm really confuser with this whole thing but noyou didnt coke off rude I just knew once I said anything about that fitting I used I was going to hear about it thanks again

JonnyBoy

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...delete-257369/

This is for a delete, but there's one picture that shows the bracket in the fender. Helps you locate the "return" line in the fender area, at least, which you could use to wiggle and find which it is at the lspv and just eliminate/plug that line. Hope that helps clarify your confusion.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I have yet to have a vehicle where the LSPV even works.

some are removed all together one has a manual valve.

The only time I tried to bleed a LSPV it broke.

I can understand why your brakes are not working .

Your in to much of a hurry if you don`t have the time to replace a brake line.

Good luck !!

Kinked line compressed line not much real difference!!!!

AnthonyVB

How would you suggest repairing that line without having to drop the tank and run new line?

JonnyBoy

There's 2 lines going back there. You know which one you burned the hole in? Use the other one that's not damaged to run from the front bracket/junction to the input of the lspv, then plug the other port on the lspv and the fender bracket/junction. That's the only acceptable temporary fix I can think of without removing the tank.

My '83 had the lspv(granted, it was rusted plugged and non operational even though it was a lifelong SoCal truck) and it only had 1 line from the front fender to the valve in stock form, no return line like my '90 4Runner has. Even if it's an ABS thing(my '83 didn't have it, my Runner does) to have the return line, the brakes can still safely function without ABS. They can't safely function without pressure.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

i have run so many new brake lines behind the fuel tank I don`t get excited .

It is simple compared to pulling cable through conduit.

Just put some electrical tape on the end so it does not get dirt in. Cable tie in place front and back of the fuel tank.

Then if you have the type of personalty always in a hurry you will get impatient start getting frustrated throwing things and inventing new combinations of curse words .

I work with a youngster about 30 that does this it gives us all a good laugh when we show the videos from the security cameras at the Winter Holiday party

AnthonyVB

So you're saying I can run new brake line easily or its a P.I.T.A. to do? I rather get everything running correctly again even thought my abs is toast from my swap.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Being your in California it won`t be bad at all .

Here in the great Rust belt the lines fail from rust in 2 winters.Although the new copper/nickle line does look to be better.

Just try and take your time you will be fine. If you can do a swap your skills should prove ample to do this .

Having a flaring tool learning how to make double flares being able to make your own brake lines does give one a leg up.

As you well know any job can go from easy to a week long project.

** I really hate to see people use compression fitting on brake lines.

** I had a friends wife and children killed by a vehicle that had a compression fitting fail on a brake line during a panic stop.

Increased stopping distance just enough !!