AbeWhat

Hey all,

Long post warning

5sp. 86 22r.

I was riding around the dunes in Silver Lake, MI, having a blast, when my truck shut off while sitting. I started it back up to drive, and it wouldn't idle. I had to rev it or drive it 100% of the time (very hard while off roading haha).

The truck has to be:
1. All the way heated up.
2. Shut off, then started again.
3. Then it will idle like XXXX (JUNK) and die while coasting with the clutch pedal pushed in.

First, it sounded like a vac leak to me from all the bouncing around, so I checked all the hoses around the carb, pulled the air cleaner assembly, double checked all that and still had the problem. I checked all the routing against the FSM. A lot of stuff is capped/plugged from the PO, but it's all perfectly correct for everything that is in the truck. I spun the idle screw clockwise, hoping it just got bumped down, didn't help. I'm comfortable with these carbs, so then I checked the AAP (no gas in the hose), glass fuel sight (right in the middle) and replaced the fuel cut solenoid with a bolt to rule that out. Still no dice. I'd been meaning to replace the fuel filter, so I put a new one in just to rule that out also. No luck.

So I did all my usual research on this site, the FSM, plus these, also:
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=275556

These gave me some info and a couple more things to check:
1. Electric choke - This is what my gut tells me it might be
2. Timing/Distributor - This is something I've read about but never ever had any trouble with or messed with/changed
3. Any other ideas/lines of thought?

I didn't submerge it or rev it out etc., just some harder driving, 4HI, hills, and hard turning. I drove home 220 miles timing red lights, rolling stop signs, etc. so it's safe for now. I can rev it and drive normally (did 70mph the whole way home), just no idle/coast.

I know one is coming over to fix it for me or over the web, I would just like some insight on what direction to look. There are TONS of threads with this symptom, but it seems like each one has a different solution, though the problems all look similar.

Thanks for your help and any ideas you could throw my way.

Abe

AbeWhat

Update/Bump (Bumpdate? I might be on to something)

So I got a chance this afternoon to keep checking things out. I checked/adjusted the choke according to the 22r FAQ site, and I had to rotate it slightly, but not much. So it was still acting bad, I decided to spray the whole thing with carb cleaner while it was barely idling and *BOOM SHAKALAKA* it starts idling solid. High, but I had it set high to keep it going.

So it appears there is a leak at the base of the carb front/drivers side. I'm letting it cool off, then check the carb bolts for tightness, then some RTV around the outside to see if it is really the root cause. If it is, then I'll pull it off and reinstall.

I'll keep everyone posted on the results.

-Abe

AbeWhat

I haven't had a chance to try to seal it up yet, probably later in the week. My question is, why would it only happen when it was hot, if it is a regular vacuum leak? Any thoughts?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Found this yet?
www.ncttora.com/FSM

As things get hot they constrict, cold they expand, so sometimes leaks show up only when things are hot.

:wabbit2:

AbeWhat

Yes, FSM is my first stop, then internet stuff.

Also, I am aware of the properties of materials at temperature, thank you.

I've always had vac leaks from hoses/fittings that are broken. These would be constant, I'm new to ones that repeatedly open/close at a set temperature every time. When I didn't find a missing cap, or obvious leak point I initially ruled out a vacuum leak. I've never seen a carb leak air from the mounting flange, so I was going through the next most likely options first (fuel-cut, choke, etc.).

Thanks for the response. Everyone should have the FSM handy. It always helps.

-Abe

AbeWhat

So I spent today trying to chase down that vacuum leak.

I pulled the carb, checked all the hoses, replaced the dried/cracked Acceleration Pump, cleaned the carb out, reinstalled it with RTV between the intake/baseplate/carb, hooked everything back up (FSM comes in handy), changed the spark plugs, and there is still a leak somewhere.

I sprayed carb cleaner and the idle changes when it is sprayed just about anywhere near the carb body and base or intake manifold. I also added sealant where the separate pieces of the carb bolt on, and where the upper/middle/bottom of the carb connect. No dice.

I wanted to desmog my last truck and didn't get around to it, so I decided to do this one. Getting rid of everything that is non-essential and vacuum, solving this problem, then adding a HAC when I find one lying around. The Truck drives, it's idle just stinks, and it seems like it is stuck on high (cold) idle now too, and won't jump down with a flick of the throttle to low (warm) idle. We'll see...

AbeWhat

Finally some progress! So after de-smogging the truck ran better, but there was still a problem somewhere. It would surge at idle, but wouldn't die, as long as the idle was set high enough. OK for short term, but not fixed.

I swapped in my old, spare carb and it purrs like a kitten, no issues at all. So I'm rebuilding the new (broken) carb when I have a minute because it already has screws on the choke instead of rivets. I'll just drive around with the old one until then.

The ONLY problem is that the stud that guides the air cleaner down will not come off of the problem carb. I don't really like the idea of driving without one for long haha. Just a small little problem to fix, maybe I'll just buy some all-thread and make a new one.

Tonyb

so that this post is from a couple years ago but if you guys can help me out. I have the same problem with my 86 Toyota pickup except mine is fuel injected. I love driving this thing but I just can't figure out what the problem is so if you guys could possibly just give me a shout out or something id appreciate it.