sinteger

I have searched and searched and found no real answers for these issues.
I have an 86 22R in my 88 Pickup. I recently obtained a used Weber 32/36 and bought new adapter plates for it. I removed all of the EGR equipment, smog/air pump, and removed all vacuum lines and capped off what needs to be capped. The only items still hooked to the manifold are the PCV valve, and a line that runs to a vacuum switch and the other side of the switch is connected to the charcoal canister. I have the vacuum advance port on the carb connected to the distributor advance port and the retard port on the distributor is capped off. timing is set to factory 0 degrees. the only other mods are pacesetter headers and custom 2.25" exhaust with a magnaflow cat and borla muffler. sounds awesome. on to the issues at hand...

dieseling: it sometimes diesels, not every time, but a lot. i purchased an idle cutoff solenoid: no help. i tested it for functionality: outside the carb, with the jet in, i cannot blow through the jet if no electricity is applied. the engine will start and idle exactly the same with the solenoid connected or not. fuel dumping in from somewhere else?

stalls with braking: another strange one... i already disconnected and plugged the line for the booster, problem does not change. eliminates the booster right? it does not seem to do this when in reverse, and does not occur with the truck sitting still. if i raise the idle way up or, as i have learned to do: drive with two feet, it will stay running.

idle/mixture: turning the idle mixture screw completely in or even removing it seems to have little to no effect. by little i mean that completely removing it barely changes anything. if its threaded in at all it makes no difference if its just started in there or (seemingly) seated.

i have sprayed all around the carb with carb cleaner and even used a little blue RTV on the adapter plates. i've found no evidence of vacuum leakage.

here is what i found for jettage in the beast:

*Corrected these sizes*
Main Jet: Primary 145, Secondary 145
Air Jet: 160, 170
Idle Jet: 50, 55
Emulsion Tube: F50. F50

Seems to me like its jetted all wrong... but I dont see how that could be causing all my issues... any advice? all i found in searching was two people seem to have reported running premium stops the stalling while braking.

sinteger

This just occurred to me... the stalling while braking, could this be being caused by thrusting fuel either in or out of the carb? i decided to do a better reverse braking test, and it actually seems to "open up" and the stuttering idle smooths out when i hit the brakes while rolling in reverse... I forgot to mention that I am running the old stock pump and old fuel filter and the truck sat for 4 years till i got my hands on it... i'll be able to replace this stuff this weekend. anyone have pump/filter recommendations? I don't think i'll have enough cash to get a regulator at the same time...

also the return line from the factory pump is still connected...

sinteger

based on my jet list above, which kit would be more appropriate to buy?

the "richening kit"
Kit Includes:

* Main Jets - 145, 150, 155
* Air Correction Jets - 180, 190, 200
* Primary Idle Jets - 65, 70, 75
* Secondary Idle Jets - 55, 60
* Single Pump Jet - 55
* Double Pump Jet - 55

the "leaning kit"
Kit Includes:

* Main Jets - 130, 135, 140, 145
* Air Correction Jets - 180, 190, 200, 210
* Primary Idle Jets - 50, 55, 60, 65
* Secondary Idle Jets - 45, 50, 55

yotaman90

What altitude do you live at?

sinteger

A whopping 166ft. Basically 0.

'86Owner

I've also got a 32/36 weber on an '86. Its actually the RE but one of the previous owners carburated it. Don't know anything about the braking problem but i am running these jets.
primary idle-065
secondary idle-055
primary air corrector-170
secondary air corrector-180
and i dont remember what the main jets are but 140 and 150 sounds right. But dont take my word for it.
It runs great and I have decent power and am getting about 19 mpg in town.
Its actually running a little rich but larger air jets should fix that I'm sure. I just ordered larger Idle and Air jets and am going to see what kind of difference they make. I used to have 050 and 060 Idle jets, it ran fine but I got more power out of the larger jets (go figure) though my milage went down by 1.
The Idle mixture jet should be between 1 3/4 and 2 1/4 turns out. If the sweet spot is not in that range then your Idle jets are the wrong size. This only works if your idle speed screw is not more than 1 1/2 turns in.
What was that about vacuum switch and charcoal canister. Pardon my ignorance but what is that. Is it the vacuum advance and retard for the distributer? And does capping off the retard port make a difference?

'86Owner

Oh, on the dieseling thing, I had a problem with that when I got my pickup. And If your Idle speed screw is out more than 1 1/2 turns, the truck will diesel every-now-and-again. Its called Altered Idle and it adds extra fuel into the intake, this is used when in High Idle. This will also affect the Idle mixture so that it acts like yours (its not supposed to do that). But check your timing first, it does affect the idle. I have mine at 5 degrees, that was recommended by Napa Auto Parts. Although I have heard 0 is the factory setting. I dont know which is better. I just remembered that I had a slight decrease in rpm when braking a couple of times before I got all this worked out. but it didnt happen enough for me to notice what was causing it or what fixed it. One more thing, check to make sure your throttle linkage is not loose, it makes a world of difference. I hope all this makes sense and that I was not rambling, but this is what I found worked in my case.

atoliver

Another person here with an '86 22r, with a Weber. I am about to attempt to install jets to lean it out. I'm new to these things and my conundrum is simple and kind of a silly question, but do I need to take the carb off to remove the mains from inside the float bowl? or can I just leave it there and screw them out and replace them. (the process all being submerged in fuel). I know that's silly but thanks if you answer.

87yo_ta

Pop the top off and remove/install the new jets.

Derek79

I'm having similar issues with my Weber carb except mine cuts out and bogs way down when I put more then 50% throttle to it, could this be caused by wrong jetting as well?

87yo_ta

Very well could be. I have had the 32/36 and now a 38 on my 22r. I can tell you it's not a bolt on carb. You need to follow the tuning instructions step by step in order to get them to run correctly. I love mine but it took some time to sort it out and get it jetted correctly. This link might help.
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Tech...Carbs-s/74.htm

superex87

I didnt see any mention of this bit its extremely important to use a quality fuel pressure regulator. Webers are very sensitive to fuel pressure. oem fuel pump makes too much pressure. Needs to be around 3psi.

87yo_ta

What he said. ^

sweitzerworks

Have you dialed in your choke? Sounds like she's choked, just my 2 cents though.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

very important. i use a holley 12-804 pressure regulator on the weber in my jeep (my toyotas are all fuel injected). it allows adjustment between 1 and 4 psi.

Yota891

I have a 1983 22r with new carb plugs wires etc. plugs gapped at .31. The truck idols great and 1,2 gear do fine but when in shift into 3 and mash on it she will stutter and lose power unless I get off it a little and it will catch up. When I shift into fourth I can only get 2,200 rpms max and it stutters if I get over 30%throttle while in 4th. Checked vacuum leaks with starting fluid around carb and intake no leaks there. What could this b? Truck also has 35's on it but the stutter is what gets me? Any help on this?

andrew520

I had the same issue after converting to the Weber. I tried everything and then I decided to Seafoam the top end via the brake booster vacuum line. I did this 3 times, and it hasn't dieseled since. Carbon on the pistons gets so hot it will ignite any leftover fumes when you shut the engine down. Seafoam helps break that stuff up. FYI if it does diesel dump the clutch to kill it immediately. I let mine go once and it spun backward and the timing chain jumped a tooth which luckily was an easy fix but something to consider.

Yota891

i finally found the problem!!! My metering needle was out of adjustment actually the nut where u adjust it had come off and was just sitting there on top of carb. So when u give it gas the metering needle wound not even pick up do to nothing holding it on. I looked over this a 100 times.i set the metering needle where it should b and she pulls strong through all gears without a stutter!!!