TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

I am going to try the $50.00 roll on paint job on my hood for starters, and if it works, do the whole 4runner. I have nothing to lose, since my truck has been totaled twice and rolled once. I'll post some pics as I go along.

how to at end of thread

fork

how about a before picture?

trd_4runnin11

Actually there as a guy on clubcivic.com that did this to his hatchie and it came out pretty nice for the money spent. Personally, I am anal when it comes to paint and its either going to be scratched or its going to look good and be done by a professional of sorts. If I had an old beat up toyota (I can only hope someday) then I wouldn't even worry about painting it because Ill probably run it into a tree someday. Even my 98 limited will probably never see a new paint job because Ill cry when I scratch it.

But do post pics of your progress!

wardriver

I'm with you. I'm planning on doing this to my 83' beater ford to cover the previous owner's rattle can job.

fo_runner

Redneck

wardriver

Yea maybe...but that doesn't mean that paint job can't look good...

(Ref: one of the original off site threads of the $50 paint job here...post #9)

And this is the car...

CJM

Boat paint, its self leveling!

idayota

what do you use to apply boat paint? roll or spray?

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

ok, i have the first coat on. i rolled it on straight out of the can, no thinning. i am going to thin the next coat to see if it will level even more. i sanded with 80 then 150 grit paper, washed it, let it dry, then wiped it with paint thinner. it is so freakin hot outside. all right, time for the next coat.

idayota

we wanna see too!

wardriver

Initial thoughts?

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

the second coat is now on. i rolled it out of the garage to bake in the sun. the second coat went on much smoother than the first. you have to dilute it to where it is just a little thicker than water, as was recommended by the guy in canada. then ever so lightly go back over it a few minutes after your done to knock down any bubbles. the wet sanding should smooth out the roughness from not mixing the first coat with acetone, i hope. the color is safety red, and it is bright, did i say it is very bright, ok so i did. it has a pretty good shine and it is covering very well , the color got deeper with the second coat as was expected.
don't worry, i am taking pics, but my kids are gonna have to load them for me.
so far so good.

i am going to wet sand it about 6-7 o'clock this evening and put the next to coats on tomorrow morning.

wardriver

Good stuff...I'd like to see the progress.

CJM

Either or really, it has a self leveling agent so you dont need to thin it at all.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

well, it is 103.5 degrees outside. the paint is drying very fast, so i went ahead and wet sanded it with 600 grit.
the first coat went on so rough, that i sanded the heck out of it, just to smooth it out before the third coat.
the third coat really added some depth, but i am going to wet sand it with 400 grit after i put the fourth coat on just to make it really smooth before the fifth coat. you really have to dilute the paint down as stated earlier, that is why i have ridges, it levels out better when diluted.
just a side note, i used paint thinner to remove any residue after rinsing it after the wet sand, and it knocks the shine right off this paint, so i will use o.m.s. next time.

idayota

forgive me tortis, i'm still fairly new to the paint world. what brand/kind of paint are you using again? what are you rolling it on with? what is o.m.s.? are you going to cut and buff it out after your final coat? excited to see the results. thanks.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

here are the pics in order of coats of paint.





this is where i sanded the crap out of it.

this is the 4th coat and i mixed the paint to thin and it dried to fast leaving streaks

you can see the paint has a texture to it, but it will sand smooth

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

idayota, i am using rustoleum professional which is oil based that i picked up at lowes. i am using a 4" high density roller. i am using acetone to dilute the paint. oms is odorless mineral spirits. i will use 1000 grit on the final sand and then turtle wax and a buffer to buff it out. it has been a learning experience so far. looks better than that faded paint that is on there now.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

the 4th coat is dry and very rough to the touch. i mixed too much acetone in this time and the paint was tacked up in minutes. I am going to wet sand it with 400 grit in the morning. i am going to sand till it is glass smooth then mix up the paint to a thickness of water and put coat 5 and 6 on. i hope with the cooler temps. and the sanding the paint will roll on and level out better.

FOCUSHERE

wow dude 5 coats!?!?!?!
you need to slow down or something in my opinion

read this thread this is my research i would not be doing this if
i seen pics like yours
not to be rude sorry

http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57181

http://www.wattora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4453

http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/he...g_roll_tip.htm

http://www.boatersland.com/intbrightside.html