gsp4life

These trucks are old and often neglected and poorly repaired so they need lots of work. They're sold cause the owner doesn't want the headache. If problem-free examples exist, they're not being sold or the asking price is close to a new car.

I bought mine in total ignorance for too much money. It was rust-free in decent shape with a rebuilt engine and good service record history. I figured it would run forever so worth the mark-up. I kid you not, almost everything needed lots of work. To do it over, I wouldn't pay $1500 for it. I'm glad I learned what I did, but no need to go broke for a new skill set. Don't be like me. A money pit isn't valuable no matter how bad some people think it is.

Red Leader

I picked up my 2nd gen a few years ago. It is a 1990, 22re 5 speed 4x4. If you are really interested in this combo, they do pop up. However, they do command a premium over the V6 models, due to their rarity and the perception that the 22re is the better engine.

Because price was my main factor, and the fact that they were so hard to come by, I jumped on mine when I saw it. I think the PO ended up getting over 75 emails about it. I drove it away for $1000. Now, it just so happened that it died on me the very same day I got it, right in front of the wife nonetheless (she thought I was crazy!). Had lots of deferred maintenance, 243k on the clock, body was rusty in the corners and windshield channel, but frame was solid, and it drove like on a razor.

I've done a lot of work and spent a LOT of time on it. Replacing timing chain/water pump/oil pump, replacing clutch, redoing oil pan, new windshield, rust repairs everywhere and various upgrades...I know the time and the cost have caught up to me a bit. However, I have learned a TON about it and it has taught me new skills. I don't regret it at all.

If I was to buy another one and do it how I want to, I would buy from a southwestern state (no rust) and look for a 22re in great shape OR an immaculate V6 model with a blown 3.0 and swap in a 3.4 (great great engines and trans and engine mounts work).

2nd gens don't seem to get the same love as the 1st gens and the other gens as well, but the 2nd, followed closely by the 3rd, are my favorites. Great vehicles.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I just think the automatic is to slow for some on ramps in major cities. In rural areas they would be okay. The 22 or 3.0 with a manual transmission has enough power to get down the road in fast paced traffic.

These trucks are getting 20 plus years in age and then add the neglect that comes with any used car there are going to be issues. I have worked on what some that were well cared for trucks and runners and I find all kinds of issues with them. It is not just Toyotas, but I have shown in my threads some of the trucks I have worked on and they do look good but not a one of them would I say was trouble free from the day they got it. On my own purchases or repairing other peoples trucks, I would easily add $1000 to the cost just to get it mechanically or repaired to where it needs to be.

Occasionally you still find one of these older trucks still on some car lots around here and I have gone with someone that wanted me to look at it and I can pick it a part. Not trying to be critical of the truck, but I do know what most parts cost for these trucks and the work involved in getting it fixed that I have talked a couple of people out of buying what they thought was a nice truck. They did not want to put in the extra expense involved in what was needed done. Most is just common maintenance that needs done.

If I really wanted a solid truck to start with, I would do like Red Leader suggested and get one from the South west part of the country that is rust free and be prepared to work on it to get it up to where it needs to be. Where I live we still have minor issues with rust but not terrible. Toyotas nuts and bolts are not the best and I have spent plenty of time getting broken bolts out. Rust free trucks is so much nicer to work on. Be prepared to go from one end to the other end on working on it. You will have a solid truck when completed.

gsp4life

Red Leader, if I bought mine for $1000 and started by doing all the maintenance and repairs myself I'd have a much fatter piggy-bank!

L5wolvesf, just noticed you're in northern AZ so you're in luck. That's the only thing I did right buying mine. If it spent it's whole life in the area, there'll be a premium on it for being "rust free" but will have far fewer electrical problems and bolts that'll break free without snapping. When people buy these for big money, it might not be long till they learn an expensive lesson. My 85 was in the shop no less than 5 times over the next year for nearly $3000 of work that didn't fix it. There are exceptions but IME your average shop will do the least amount of work they can to make it run. Tools, time and space to work are any old car's best friend.

If I were to buy another right now, I'd look for a nice, unmodded example that had a bad engine or tranny and an owner who wanted it gone. I'd be smiling as I towed it home.

thook

Is there some issue with the 3.0 and a timing belt to be aware of? I mean, I can't see any "downside" to it, if there's a concern people have with them. The 3vze is non-interference and the belts are robust. Both being a plus, I would say, over the 22re. Don't get me wrong....love the 22re for what it is.

gsp4life

Nah, I think he's just pointing out a difference between the two. Chains are usually more durable, but the tensioner and guides are sort of a problem for the 22re. A belt is more efficient and quieter. If each are installed correctly with good quality parts and changed at the interval it's nothing to worry about.

If 3.0 belts were breaking a lot, it would be well known. Their original headgaskets aren't as trustworthy as a 22re's, but both can fail.

The 3.0 has a tendency to develop low compression in one cylinder, I forget which but if you google it, it's always the same one. You could bring a gauge and spark plug socket with you to test before you buy.

thook

I remember reading debates over the A340H and 3.0 vs M/T set up a few years ago. It's true....A/T's require power from the engine to operate. And, perhaps the 3.0 is a bit underpowered for the A/T application. I've often thought the 3.0 was/is probably better suited in a passenger car situation and not a heavy 4wd. It's only got like 130hp, IIRC. But, I read recently a major factor in the A340 and either motor set up....whether 22re or 3vze....is also the hydraulic transfer case on them. I guess it really depends on what anyone wants/expect out of these vehicles.

Personally, I like to avoid interstates as much as possible, so higher speeds/quicker acceleration is a non-concern for me, but I can certainly understand for someone using their 4wd as a DD where that'd be more important. Over the years of using our 4wd as mainly a towing vehicle, I've had the chance to compare an A/T vs an M/T around hills in heavy town traffic. I used to use my '86 before I retired it. I've come to appreciate not having to clutch from a dead stop on a steep uphill with a heavy trailer when there's a line of cars a city block long waiting for you to get going through the light. Particularly when I've had to make left hand turns crossing the opposite bound traffic three lanes wide. The A/T vehicle's actually a bit quicker in this regard since there's no loss of momentum from clutching. Again, I'm not concerned with speed, but the greater ease is nice. And, it's a bit safer, I feel.

All I'm trying to point out, and not necessarily debate really, is it seems to me the A340 trannies get a bad wrap....much like the 3vze....when really it shouldn't. Not saying you're doing that, but people get the impression. It's a stout ars piece of machinery and I could see where it would really make for a nice offroad set up even though it's not something I do. And, with anyone reading this, I don't think it should discourage someone from buying a truck or 4rnr just because it has the A/T in it. Again, though, it depends on what someone really expects.

thook

Fair enough...

Oh, I'm familiar with the common idiosyncrasies of the motor. It's no. 6 cylinder, I believe, due to the way the exhaust runs.....hence people have done crossover pipe modifications to avoid the overheated valve issue. Yeah, and the headgaskets...that's a non-issue anymore due to progression of time.

I've had belts last longer than the chain set up, but that's only because in the 22re it's the guides that give way before the chain does. As well, it's pulleys that go usually before the belts actually do.

I'm not in the market for another vehicle just yet (maybe another tranny, but waiting on that situation to see), but if I were to have to get another I'd get another 3.0 before a 22re any day. In the event of unexpected misfortune (caca occurs, sometimes), bent valves really suck.

L5wolvesf

Good to know RL, I'm kinda luck tht I'm in the Southwest already. I figure I'm still able to learn about yet another engine and trans.

L5wolvesf

I am prepared to do work on it, but on my time frame preferably, so I'll get the ones I see a good going over. Thanks Terry

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

No I was just pointing out some people will unload a vehicle when they are told it needs a @ $1200.00 timing belt.

The same with Timing chain and guides on a 2.4

Remember not everyone can change a timing belt or even their oil .

Always a card to play for the buyer to drop the offering price quite a bit.

L5wolvesf

I have the room, tools and ability to do 90% of what needs to be done on most vehicles. All my cars are older the current "newest" are 1984s (Volvo 245 & Toy Pu) oldest is a 55 Ford. I've raced since the 80s and cars have been in my blood since the 60s. In Northern AZ rust can be an issues but not as much as in other parts of the country. Thanks for your input.

L5wolvesf

Good to know, I'll look that up and I plan to bring a comp tester when I check out the 4Runners.

L5wolvesf

This reminds me of another thing I was wondering - how are 4Runners as far as towing, with a 3.0 and M/T? Most of any towing I would do would be small race cars and related equipment.

L5wolvesf

I gotten some pretty good deals when I've know what the most likely problem was and the owner didn't want to deal with it.
I'll have my eyes open for that kind of thing and that is why I'm asking questions here before diving in.

gsp4life

My 85 m/t can tow around a ton ok, but it's not great. I'd guess that a 2nd gen with it's better brakes, more weight and stronger engine is way better in that dept. You should be fine for a few thousand pounds as long as you aren't in the mountains.

RJR

I've towed my 2200 lb pop-up behind my '94 V6 MT, across the mountains of Colorado. It gets the job done, but it's not fast up the hills. A fair amount of 40mph at 4000 rpm on the grades. I stayed off I-70 and took the state highways, and that worked pretty well. The 4runner is a heavy enough vehicle that I never felt a problem controlling the trailer, even though mine doesn't have brakes. I don't think I'd want to pull anything much heavier through the mountains, however.

L5wolvesf

Good to know guys thanks. BTW, I live in a valley no matter which direction I go I have mountains to pull.

thook

Echoing what others have said, it does work for sure. I've pulled a little over 3k lbs at times, but I wouldn't call the Ozarks real mtns. Anything like what you guys out west live in and I'd look at a 3.4 for that much weight. Or, atleast, upgrade the front brakes to heavier duty rotors. I've warped the OEM ones before.

Red Leader

TIME...absolutely! Also, one of the best tips I can give to anyone who wrenches on their own and does some rust repair...it is going to rust again, immediately, if you don't immediately treat it. I've been doing my tire-swing retrofit over the Christmas break and I had repaired the rear bottom quarters behind the rear wheel 6 months to a year ago. Well, untreated on the inside, they were full of rust. It was really eye-opening. Had to spend half the time I had just de-rusting from my previous rust repair! I also need to check both front doglegs and also all around the inside of the windshield channel as I noticed rust too.

I'll save anyone some trouble if you do your own repairs - treat the back side of the weld, immediately, and you won't be re-repairing your previous repair for a long time to come. Also, buy a couple cans of WD-40 'Specialist' Corrosion Inhibitor and pull off the plugs at the back of the quarters, and the bottom door jam trim and soak these areas. Will save a lot of headaches in the future.

As far as the $1000 4runner. Its been awesome...but it has eaten up a TON of time as well...all the repairs I've been doing myself. The clutch, timing chain, rust repair. It goes a lot slower in a 1-man hobby shop, especially with little kids running around.

Next one will def be a desert 4runner with an immaculate body. There are also some good ways to check for rust that I have learned.