AppalachianOffRoader

I try and drive with my 4x4 engaged for about 4 or 5 miles at least once a week. Just to keep things from getting dried out. Tonight I was driving down the road, and had do a U-turn with the wheels turned all the way to the lock out point. As I was in the turn my truck started to buck pretty bad. Is this normal for using 4x4 on pavement in tight turns? I've never noticed it before, but I don't think I've ever turned so tight with 4x4 engaged either? Otherwise it drives and rides just fine, I don't notice any pulling or bucking/shaking otherwise, and it engages as advertised.

Additional info: 89 pickup with 178xxx miles. 31" Yokahama Geolander AT/S tires. This is my daily driver, and it runs like a Singer otherwise.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Yup. Pretty much means it's working.

Also, don't do that again

AppalachianOffRoader

Thanks for the quick reply! I figured it was probably normal, but just wanted to make sure.

Teuf

Just lock your hubs and DO NOT engage the 4x drive on asphalt. That will just turn your axles and drive shaft, it will get things churned up in ya diff. And only do that say once for a short while every 4 months or so.
What blue said, don't do that again. Nothing will Dry out.

AppalachianOffRoader

Ok, that makes things a lot easier. I don't always get a chance to drive off road, and seemed to remember reading somewhere that I should engage the 4x4 for so many miles/kilometers per week. But if all i need to do is engage the hubs, that's way easier. Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help.

Teuf

I recall not doing that for a year plus....then I'de engage for a dozen miles or so and forget about it for another year.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Torque bind good way to break things

I pretty much leave the hubs in all winter.

I just take the out if I plan a long trip on dry roads.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

When fully engaged, I reduce my steering radius to 1/4th or so of its turning capabilities unless absolutely necessary or on slick surfaces. ( Only using 75% of full turn, for a better explanation), You can start to feel it binding up in the steering wheel and just the way the truck reacts.

osv

when I pulled my Detroit front diff, the gears themselves were clean, but there was a big patch of rust on some of the other surfaces on the diff... water had gotten in there, not sure if it was from what I did, or something that the p.o. did... one of the hub seals appeared to have leaked(also?), so one of the longs was trashed, and there was evidence of rust on a knuckle bearing.

I reused the diff, but had to replace everything else, including the longs and the hubs, because the hub seal surface was trashed.

moral of the story is yes, it's a good idea to exercise the 4wd, and to even change the front end lube, but if you buy a truck and you've never taken it apart, don't wait too long.

a4runnerfreak

5 miles or so in either 4H on pavmnt or 4L on a DIRT road only! On pavement, you won't get the correct tire slippage and things WILL bind, (like you have experienced) and things will break. I do that every 6 months or so, when I don't have the time to go wheeling.

Kelvin Jones

I have a 91 with v6 auto that goes into gear and the front driveshaft turns but does not turn the axles don't move any advisers

Kelvin Jones

With lok-out hubs

RSR

To clarify, the binding isn't in your diff. It's in your transfer case. When turning your front wheels have to turn at a slightly higher rate than your rear wheels, which your transfer case really doesn't like.

I'm pretty sure it's fine to drive on dry asphalt in 4wd going straight and most gentle turns like found on highways. Just pop it into 2wd before you turn sharply.

Also, I was under the impression that just the front axles and not the driveshaft rotated when hubs were locked -- but I honestly haven't really paid attention. Something to check for sure as it'll save the need for running in 4wd while keeping things lubricated.

redbayredneck

When your hubs are locked in (unless you have ADD) your front diff will turn your driveshaft.