4.88 With 33s???
08-28-2014, 10:43 PM
#21
Gevo -- with your auto tranny, you want to ensure that RPMs will be in the same range as stock at your top end (~55mph) in 3rd gear with the OD switch off...
The tranny's coolant pump is mechanical tied to the engine RPMs, so if you drop your RPMs significantly, you could very well have tranny overheat problems due to too slow of rate of fluide transfer...
Some good info in these threads:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ge-why-265651/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eating-272750/
The tranny's coolant pump is mechanical tied to the engine RPMs, so if you drop your RPMs significantly, you could very well have tranny overheat problems due to too slow of rate of fluide transfer...
Some good info in these threads:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ge-why-265651/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eating-272750/
This brought me to another question. I'm surprised to be reading an array of answers on this forum and other to the question "at what rpm is the engine at in 4th gear Auto OD at 70 mph. My car gives me exactly 2500 rpm. The online calculator says it should be giving me 2350 rpm. So with 5.29 and 33's it calculates 2640 rpm. If I extrude the same difference, my tach will show 2800 rpm. Everyone says 3000 is normal for these cars, but it seems a bit high to me.
Another late night long thought.
08-29-2014, 12:58 PM
#22
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Keep in mind that 33 inch tires don't actually have a rolling radius of 16.5 inches (half of 33). It's more like 16 brand new, and 15.75 once they get worn some. Tire manufacturers tend to "inflate" (bad pun, I know) the size of their tires a bit.
Best way to figure the actual rolling radius is to measure from the ground to the middle of the hub when on a hard surface at normal inflation.
Best way to figure the actual rolling radius is to measure from the ground to the middle of the hub when on a hard surface at normal inflation.
09-18-2014, 11:48 AM
#23
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expensive, but not horrible pricing IMO especially if you got lockers inside them - you did get lockers, right? hopefully this is not the open diff price.
that's pretty much what you'd pay in the US if you went through someone like Marlin Crawler and bought locked, drop-in units.
Marlin sells open 4.88 7.5 front for $550, the ARB locked version is $1500
Rear diffs: open 4.88 $600, ARB rear v6 $1750
that's pretty much what you'd pay in the US if you went through someone like Marlin Crawler and bought locked, drop-in units.
Marlin sells open 4.88 7.5 front for $550, the ARB locked version is $1500
Rear diffs: open 4.88 $600, ARB rear v6 $1750
09-18-2014, 11:56 AM
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expensive, but not horrible pricing IMO especially if you got lockers inside them - you did get lockers, right? hopefully this is not the open diff price.
that's pretty much what you'd pay in the US if you went through someone like Marlin Crawler and bought locked, drop-in units.
Marlin sells open 4.88 7.5 front for $550, the ARB locked version is $1500
Rear diffs: open 4.88 $600, ARB rear v6 $1750
that's pretty much what you'd pay in the US if you went through someone like Marlin Crawler and bought locked, drop-in units.
Marlin sells open 4.88 7.5 front for $550, the ARB locked version is $1500
Rear diffs: open 4.88 $600, ARB rear v6 $1750
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