ference21

Recently got 33s, with stock 4.10 gearings its a bit sluggish. I have a V6 standard and would like to know what everyone is running. I will be having a quad/sled in the back. would like it back to stock power (4.56 with 33s) from what ive read, so 4.88 will give me a bit extra foe the added weight?? Any help is much appreciated!!

Punchy

4.88 will work perfect

RJR

In later years (94-95), 4.56's were stock with 31's with a 5 speed, so yes, 4.88's with 33's should work well. I can well imagine those 4.10's are pretty sluggish.

toyNG

I'm running 4.88 with 33s and it feels pretty much the way it did with 4.10 and stock tires

ference21

I was actually really surprised how good it turns my 33s!

ference21

Thanks for the help guys

james92toy

Look for some factory toy diff's with stock 4:88 and just swap them out . You could do it in an afternoon . Check this out. Did this to my friends truck for only a couple of $$.

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

RSR

4.88s are only found in 31" Auto packages on V6 trucks. The third member on the rear axle is also special, so only 4.88 Gears can go into a 4.88 3rd member whereas your 4.1s or 5.28s or pretty much any other can go into non-4.88 third member.

Great resource for what tire size changes look like in size and speed and speedometer (stock for non-31" packages versus what I run).
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tir...r15-31-10.5r15

Figuring out your effective gearing ratio with tire size changes, this calculator: http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartire.php

Another great Toyota Gearing Web Page: http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

Enter your tranny, transfer, and tire info here for precise numbers on your gearing in each gears and depending upon your transfer setting: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

A thread covering some of the same ground as here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nfused-272221/

And these are the "everything you want to know about gearing" links:

http://www.trucktestdigest.com/axle%20ratios.htm
Summary: Higher Gearing (Lower Numbers) only improve fuel economy above 60mph, so you're ahead to go the lowest you can go unless you spend a lot of time cruising above 60 mph on the highway.

More of the same: http://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/und...g-axle-ratios/

Lastly, run a good synthetic gear lube for MPG savings: http://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-...comparison.pdf

Punchy

The factory 8" 4.88 diff only supports 4.88.
The factory 8" 4.10, 4.30, 4.56 can support aftermarket, 3.90,4.10, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88, 5.29 & 5.71

ference21

Getting the same fuel mileage as you did stock ?

andykrow

I'm running 33's with 4.10's right now. Well, they're 10.5's so they spin a little easier than 12.5's, and I have a motor built for torque so it isn't as bad as it could be.

Mileage with 33's and 4.10s is actually WAY better at highway speeds - I can coax 26 out of a tank In town though it sucks... I feel like I can see the gas gauge descend. When I ran 33/4.88 in a previous truck mileage was worse than stock all around.

IMO for 4.88s the factory diff is the way to go, as long as you don't plan a going bigger for rubber. You can still put a locker in it (anything for a toyota 8" will work) and it is a very strong diff. (cryo gears or so I've been told)

ference21

Ok, mine has nothing done to it. And i can tell the engine is working harder. To spin the tires. I'm getting 100km less on a tank on the highway. Changing the gearing to 4.88 would put me back to stock and would make sense I would get better milage due to not needing as much power to then the tires, is my thought

RJR

Make sure when your estimating gas mileage that you're accounting for your odometer not being right due to the larger tires. A good portion of that missing 100km (62 miles) could be odometer error.

Gevo

Hey guys, a slight thread jack.
How much is a used 4.88 axle and or just 3rd member going for? It's hard to tell from searching on ebay due to some that are sitting there for a long time and not selling.

Thanks.

Punchy

I have seen 250-500, I am looking for 4.88 also.

dark_fairytales

IMHO, I think 5.29 is a better match then 4.88.

With 5.29, with 33's, the engine will spin 3700 rpm at 82mph, which is the top end of the 3.0 torque range. that set up would put you doing 71mph at 3200rpm, which is a good rpm, for interstate driving.

With 4.88 and 33's, the engine will rotate 3000rpm at 72mph, which looks good as well, but you mentioned towing. I think the extra torque to the road with 5.29's would be better suited for towing purposes.

5.29 with 33's will make 47.89lb/ft torque at the road surface in fifth gear.
4.88 with 33's will make 44.18lb/ft torque at the road surface in fifth gear.
I know the torque value looks low, please do not get this confused with torque at the wheel. Torque at the wheels is measured at the axle center-line.

5.29 torque at wheels 790lb/ft
4.88 torque at wheels 729lb/ft This does not account for parasitic loss, so that is why the numbers appear high.

ference21

I paid $2700 for brand new 3rd member and front diff as well, with 4.88s. Thanks for the input everyone

Gevo

Wow, things are pricey in Canada!

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

expensive, but not horrible pricing IMO especially if you got lockers inside them - you did get lockers, right? hopefully this is not the open diff price.

that's pretty much what you'd pay in the US if you went through someone like Marlin Crawler and bought locked, drop-in units.
Marlin sells open 4.88 7.5 front for $550, the ARB locked version is $1500
Rear diffs: open 4.88 $600, ARB rear v6 $1750

RSR

Gevo -- with your auto tranny, you want to ensure that RPMs will be in the same range as stock at your top end (~55mph) in 3rd gear with the OD switch off...

The tranny's coolant pump is mechanical tied to the engine RPMs, so if you drop your RPMs significantly, you could very well have tranny overheat problems due to too slow of rate of fluide transfer...

Some good info in these threads:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ge-why-265651/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eating-272750/