Matt16

I need some final convincing before I drop ~$600 for re-gearing. I've got a line on a 4.56 IFS front diff, and the cost of re-gearing is going to be about $500 all told. Who's done this, what did it cost for them, and was it worth it for them?

I have a 22RE 1990 4Runner with 4.10s and 31" tires. I know I ought to have 4.56, but did you think the jump was worth it?

Appreciate it,
Matt

PS Why do I need new bearings when re-gearing? I know its convenient, but does it really need doing?

jjrgr21

i just went to 4.88's in my 86. big difference, and i got both front and rear for $300 from a v6 auto

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

x2 on the 4.88's. you should notice a difference and maybe a little better gas mileage in town. you doing a locker or lockers while you have the diff's out?

jjrgr21

i can't, no more $$, i would if i could, but a rear lunchbox is easy anyway. only a couple hour job.

just a 22re

just weld it im going to when i get my new one

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

yep. i know all about budgets.

Tofer

where are you located... i have a couple spare 4.56 rear 3rd sitting around, you could come test it if you want. lol

Matt16

I'm keeping the 2 pinion rear because I have an Aussie locker that I don't want to give up. Aussies are only available for 2 pinion diffs.

Tofer, I do appreciate the offer, but I'm in Vancouver, BC and that's a bit of a drive. That said, I might be going down there woth a buddy to pick up a Tacoma for cheap (strong Canadian dollar/ weak American dollar/ vehicles are cheapr in the states). I will let you know.

jjrgr21

you can always sell your aussie, and get a v6 lockright for about 225 shipped

Matt16

I like my Aussie. Its smooth and silent when it has the right oil in it.

Crawdad

I was running 31s with 4.56. It was okay. Then I regeared to 4.10 (the front and rear were mismatched), and it was still okay. Now I'm running 33s with 4.10 . It's still okay. Honestly, I didn't notice the difference.

Would I personally drop the $600+ to regear? Heck no. I'd spend that on front and rear lockers, or armor.

Honestly, if you have no problems with your truck's acceleration now, and you're not doing some hardcore crawling (in which case a doubler or crawler box would be of more benefit), stick with what you got. If you do want to regear, go with 4.88s (or higher), as you're barely going to notice the 10% difference from 4.10 to 4.56.

I know this may seem against popular opinion on this forum where the first step is to regear, but it's really not - I'm just saying that if you're gonna do it, go more than 10% up.

dirtoyboy

Sell your old diffs and just swap in some used thirds in the preferred ratio....NEW gears are expensive!

Kaptain

You are paying way too much. Are you actually buying the gears and having somebody set them up?!? You can find diffs all day long on car-parts.com.

When I had IFS I regeared the front and rear for less than 500 bucks... and that was with 4.88's.

*Edit - this is exactly what it cost me

$100 - 4.88 ADD front diff (Converted to non-add with current diff)
$125 - 4.88 V6 Rear
$120 - Shipping for both diffs (Could be worse i guess)
$16 - 2 Front Seals / 2 rear axle seals
$50 - 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear oil
$4 - RTV gasket maker
$415 - TOTAL COST TO RE-GEAR.

toyNG

I run 31s with stock 4.10 gears and barely notice the difference from when I had stock tires. The only times I notice the difference are on hills (usually have to downshift) and when I merge onto the freeway. I don't want to spend the $$$ to regear at this point. I'd regear someday if I went up to 33 inch tires. You definitely don't want to regear now, and then have to regear again if you go up in tire size.

john rumbo

had 88 4 runner with 456 gears locked front and back and loved it climbed outrages hills and rocks with 31 inch ltbs swampers you always can see differances between 410 and 456s and there good streetable gears

Junkers88

I'll let you know in a week or so. I bought some 4.56 thirds and they are on the way. Then it's an Aussie for the back and we'll see what differences I notice with my 31's.

Will keep you posted.

Matt16

I live in a really hilly area. I find many of the hills around me I can make it up at 35mph, but not 30mph. As far as I know, Toyota did not make a 4.56 2-pinion third. I am set on keeping it two pinion as Aussie only makes a locker for 2 pinion diffs. At this point, my Aussie has performed so well that (if money wasn't an issue, which it is) I don't know if I'd trade it for an ARB.

I'd like to hear more from people who have upgraded to 4.56 from 4.10.

Matt16

How are you putting an Aussie in the back if you are getting a 4.56 (4-pinion?)?

Jay351

Hey Matt, I would personally just go straight to 4.88's. That way your truck has a little better low end power, and you are set for bigger tires if you ever feel the need.

You probibly wouldnt notice a difference going from 4.10's to 4.56's....

Junkers88

The 4.56 rear is out of a 1994 Runner with a 4 cylinder motor and manual tranny and I was told it was 2 pinion.