fabby5

Im trying to remove the wrist pins from my 1990 3vze engine...
Does anyone have any tips for doing this? I thought about putting it in a vise with a socket on one side and trying to push it out...I feel like im doing something wrong...
Which way should it push out and is this just a bad idea?
I'm getting new pistons and pins from engbldr so if I mess these up trying to find something that will work thats not that big a deal. Or do i need to take it to a shop?

RSR

Here ya go: http://bit.ly/1p5XXYM

fabby5

I tried googling it...
Unfortunately, I only found people who used a press or had a torch. As a noob, I have neither. I looked at some of the posts and most used a make shift press with a bottle jack but i dont have those materials. I have a vise haha haha

millball

Take 'em to the machine shop when you get the new pistons and pins.
The pins are a very tight interference fit in the con rod small end.
Has to be very tight to prevent pin movement that might permit contact of the pin with cylinder walls. Very easy to damage the con rods or the new pistons with makeshift tools and lack of experience.
Machine shop will likely use a combination of heat applied to the rod small end and pressure to push the pins out.
Then, heat and pressure to push the new pins into place. Sometimes dry ice to shrink the new pins too.
Last time I had piston pins pushed, my machinist charged me $5 each and had 'em all done in 20 or 30 minutes. Perfect!
Easy when you have done a thousand of them.

fabby5

Thanks! I didnt realize it would be quick and easy!

RSR

This thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-pins-191230/

It was at the top when I posted the search, but now 4th... Anyways, here you go.

Goes into the whys on not diying and paying a machine shop to do. Same as millball's recommendation.

millball

It should be pointed out that the 22R type pistons use full floating piston pins, that can usually be fairly easily removed after removing the circlip retainers from the piston.
As RSRs' link shows, when a 22R con rod is reconditioned using a new bushing in the con rod small end, the new bushing must ordinarily be reamed with a precision reamer to precisely accept the piston pin, so that the pin can just move smoothly, with no slop.

The 3vze uses a different approach, where the wrist pin is tightly pressed into the con rod with no bushing being used, and no circlips needed, where the piston floats on the wrist pin that is rigidly held in the con rod small end.