flipemflopem

OK so I think by now I have read nearly every post on the site, or at least I feel that way...

The problem I'm having is basically a no start condition and have a few questions.... but before I ask them I'll tell you what I know!

* Timing is correct for sure....
* I have good fuel pressure at the rails and CSI functions normally..
* I get spark (but it seems intermittent a weak to me)
* Compression is great (for new unseated rings... 135 +/- 5% across the board)
* Everything is connected and CIL give the "all good" when jumped.



Now for the questions...

* Can the CSI pulse and injectors not during cranking?
( I get an occasional light sputter but I think only the CSI is pulsing because when I pull the plugs they barely smell of fuel and are clean.)

* What would cause the spark to be intermittent?
(i.e. coil may only fire to the dissy 4 times 1 revolution, then 3 the next, then work fine the next 10 revolutions)



Sorry this is so short and vague, I'll get more detailed if I get responses.... I just don't want to type a novel quite yet!

flipemflopem

Ok so I have tested the VAFM, coil, and distributor as per the FSM and all test good.

I get a strong fuel smell from the tailpipe while cranking and an occasional stumble when first cranking....

I guess the only thing left it could be is the ignitor.....???

Is it possible all the cranking Ive been doing has messed up my Cylinder and or ring surfaces?....

TNRabbit

Check if the distributor is 180 degrees out of alignment.

flipemflopem

Ok so here's the update.... Found a used igniter and plugged it in.....
IT LIVES!!! MUHAHAHAA!!!

Now just to get her to idle properly..... anyone have idle issues?
It runs happy and smooth as long as I keep my foot on the gas...
let go and she bogs down and dies.

Ideas? Im gonna go do some tinkerin' and see what i can do....

flipemflopem

So she still is having idle issues... She idles great while cold, but when she warms up she bogs down misses and dies....


I cleand the TB, checked the gasket, IAC, and TPS.... All good...

Any ideas?

TNRabbit

If it runs good when cold & goes to h*ll when it's warm, that indicates two possible issues:

1. Vacuum leak/unmetered air entering the intake:
--check for leaks with a propane torch (UNLIT!) around ALL vacuum hoses; if it idles up when you hit a spot, you have a leak there. Includes the large intake hose.

2. Faulty sensor of some type:
--there's a lot of trial & error here. Maybe someone will come along with better suggestions that me~

Wrenchinjoe

LOL - that's a good one!

I had a similar symptom once. My 3.0 ran great when cold but really rough and rich once warmed up. Turned out the cold start injector was leaking fuel all the time causing the truck to run way rich, bog down and die once the engine warmed up.

You can remove the csi, put it in a jar, turn the key to on and watch to see if it is seeping or not. That may not be the problem, but you can rule it in or out really easily.

Good luck.

flipemflopem

So Ive checked everything I can think of.... My CSI seems to be functioning properly..... it pulses once or twice when cranking cold, doesn't drip or anything and has a nice spray pattern.

The air tube that connects to the TB has a crack in it, but i made a makeshift seal that wraps from the outside to the inside with electrical tape that seems to be holding, and I tried to find leaks in the vacuum lines with an unlit butane torch, but no dice there either...

I guess from here Ill try to find a new inlet tube and if that doesn't help Ill do a compression test to make sure nothing buggered up during the crankfest it had before i figured out the igniter was bad, i cant imagine it would have tough, it runs smooth, just idles like total crap at the best and dies when hot and in gear...

any other ideas?

keithdphan

for me it was a coolant issue. more exactly, a trapped air bubble right before the IAC. have you check to see the IAC is receiving coolant.

flipemflopem

Yeah, I blew it out with compressed air and cleaned it all up... The hoses on both sides get warm so I imagine coolant is flowing through it...

I also ran through the FSM on the throttle body section (which was pretty darn thorough) and everything checks out there....

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/throttle.pdf

I'm hoping its just the air inlet tube.....

we shall find out tomorrow!!

flipemflopem

Purchased a new intake tube (the one that goes to the TB) and she Idles like a champ now!!!

I just need to adjust the TPS and do timing now, hopefully it will make it accelerate better! Right now its a chore to get it up to 40 MPH!!

I see a lot of people going to 12 degrees, should I do that?

any other ideas to help her get up and boogie when i push on the gas?

TNRabbit

Told ya:
"1. Vacuum leak/unmetered air entering the intake:
--check for leaks with a propane torch (UNLIT!) around ALL vacuum hoses; if it idles up when you hit a spot, you have a leak there. Includes the large intake hose."

I'd only push factory advance settings if you're using premium fuel. I'm betting right now your near 0 degrees advance if you're only hitting 40 mph~

TNRabbit

Also, 135 psi is really poor for the 3vze; should be 173.

flipemflopem

LOL I know, i know, told ya so right?

Ill have to throw the timing light on it tonight and see if I can find some missing power....

The Compression was at 135 before i was able to get her started and she had new rings and a honed bore surface to seat to... Now that its running its coming up quick... I tested it last night thinking my valves were out of adjustment and that was causeing my acelleration problems and they were all at 170 .....

TNRabbit

If your valve shims were swapped around, I guarantee your valves are out of whack~

CarSick?

Help! Just put new heads on my 3vze, also i rebuilt my injectors. Heres my problem, went to start it after getting it back together and it pisses out fuel while cranking it. Theres no gas under my intake that i could see or feel. I noticed a little fluid on my csi fuel line so im thinking it might be coming from there, but is it possible to lose that much fuel just from the csi?I replaced all the crush washers i removed and the fittings all looked dry....im lost, also the gound that comes off the injector harness bolts to the valve cover right? Would a bad ground cause this? ?...thanks

CarSick?

Turned out to be a cracked fuel line to the csi. I was able to fix it but i still cant get it to start. It sounds like it wants to. Ive checked my grounds, i have spark, i dont smell fuel at the pipe even after a lot of cranking, efi fuse good,spark plugs wire are correct and timing is perfect. If i let it sit for a minute itll idle for about half a secong (sounds healthy) but then it dies. All my connections are good. I ohmed my vafm and it check out. Im thinking its something simple...im going to pull the upper intake tomorrow and check out the fuel rail as well as pull the csi to see its pulse while cranking and to make sure its not seeping. Is there a way for air to get trapped in the fuel system and vapor lock it? I also cracked the banjo at the csi and theres definatly fuel pressure there....anyone?

Is there a way to check that the injectors are getting their trigger signal?

Does this sound Afm related (it checked out good on the multi meter)

CarSick?

Turned out to be a broken wire on the CTS for the efi im guessing ..fixed that. I also 're worked' my fuel injectors to make sure they roatated and were seated properly....got it all back together and she fired right up. Tons of white smoke but ive heard thats normal after a head gasket job...The coolant sensor block bolted to the back of the lower intake isleaking from the gasket...cant seem to get that to seal.