3VZE timing Belt Question
#1
3VZE timing Belt Question
Alright here is the situation. The other night while readjusting my timing belt I accidentally left the socket and ratchet attached to the crank pulley. Got done got in and cranked her up. She sounded great and than I heard an odd noise. I cut the ignition. It was than that I realized my folly (Yeah stupid move) The ratchet lodge against something and it spun the crank bolt right off.
Long story short I had some more issues and I realized my timing mark on the crank pulley was way off and appeared to have spun on the shaft. I have the whole front of the truck ripped apart and when I got the crank pulley off I could see that the key is gone. They had to sleeve my front seal due to a leak awhile back and I am assuming thats why there is no key now.
My question is this. How do I know when I am at TDC compression. My distributor has been removed and with piston #1 at the top of its travel the rotor is 180 degrees off. I can reset all of this I just don't know how to tell when its in compression or exhaust. Both marks on the cam pulleys line up to their marks. Do I just put the crank pulley back on with the mark at 0 degrees.
Something I just checked and I might have answered my own question. With the crank pulleys lined up with the marks at 12 o'clock (where they should be) the piston is at TDC, the distributor rotor is 180 out. I turned the crank pulley and brought the #1 piston back to TDC. Now the crank pulley marks are at 6 o'clock and the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder.
So do I need to put the cam marks at 12 o'clock with cylinder 1 at TDC than pull the distributor and reset the rotor to the #1 cylinder. Sounds like my distributor rotor is 180 out because the spark should be firing at the top of the compression stroke which I am assuming is with the cam pulleys at 12 o'clock. Lots of rambling I know. Thanks for the help you guys.
Long story short I had some more issues and I realized my timing mark on the crank pulley was way off and appeared to have spun on the shaft. I have the whole front of the truck ripped apart and when I got the crank pulley off I could see that the key is gone. They had to sleeve my front seal due to a leak awhile back and I am assuming thats why there is no key now.
My question is this. How do I know when I am at TDC compression. My distributor has been removed and with piston #1 at the top of its travel the rotor is 180 degrees off. I can reset all of this I just don't know how to tell when its in compression or exhaust. Both marks on the cam pulleys line up to their marks. Do I just put the crank pulley back on with the mark at 0 degrees.
Something I just checked and I might have answered my own question. With the crank pulleys lined up with the marks at 12 o'clock (where they should be) the piston is at TDC, the distributor rotor is 180 out. I turned the crank pulley and brought the #1 piston back to TDC. Now the crank pulley marks are at 6 o'clock and the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder.
So do I need to put the cam marks at 12 o'clock with cylinder 1 at TDC than pull the distributor and reset the rotor to the #1 cylinder. Sounds like my distributor rotor is 180 out because the spark should be firing at the top of the compression stroke which I am assuming is with the cam pulleys at 12 o'clock. Lots of rambling I know. Thanks for the help you guys.
#2
Think I might have found the answer but I would like for one of you guys to please verify.
From the FSM
15. SET NO.1 CYLINDER AT TDC/COMPRESSION
(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with timing mark ”0” of the No.1 timing belt cover.
(b) Check that the timing marks of the camshaft timing pulleys and No.3 timing belt cover are aligned. If not, turn the crankshaft pulley 1 revolution (360°).
So put em (crank pulleys) at 12'oclock (which should be compression) tap the crank pulley back on with the mark at 0 than pull and adjust the distributor rotor so it is pointing to #1 cylinder. Does that sound right?
From the FSM
15. SET NO.1 CYLINDER AT TDC/COMPRESSION
(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with timing mark ”0” of the No.1 timing belt cover.
(b) Check that the timing marks of the camshaft timing pulleys and No.3 timing belt cover are aligned. If not, turn the crankshaft pulley 1 revolution (360°).
So put em (crank pulleys) at 12'oclock (which should be compression) tap the crank pulley back on with the mark at 0 than pull and adjust the distributor rotor so it is pointing to #1 cylinder. Does that sound right?
#3
Yes. Except for the part where you called them crank pulleys. Minor detail of no concern, simply a misuse of the proper terminology. But just to clarify, there's only one crankshaft pulley(for the alternator/generator and cooling fan drive belts), behind which is the crankshaft timing pulley(for the timing belt). There's two camshaft pulleys(for the timing belt), technically refered to as the RH and LH camshaft timing pulleys.
#4
Hey thanks mudhippy. Yeah it was late, but you got it.
Everything sure goes back together faster than it came apart. She purrs like a kitten now. Thanks for the input!
Everything sure goes back together faster than it came apart. She purrs like a kitten now. Thanks for the input!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedRunner_87
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
84
06-01-2021 01:51 PM
Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
07-06-2015 01:20 PM
Vargntucson
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
0
07-04-2015 12:15 PM