motobro

Hi ,
I am attempting to put a rebuilt long block back into my 94 4runner.
I am installing the old motor exterior parts on to the new motor and the toyota manual lists a special tool to remove the camshaft pulleys that hold the timing belt. They call it a SST, looks like a spanner wrench to me, is there any where to get it other than toyota. There is also another tool used to hold the pulley coming off of the crank during removal, what is it called and where can I get it? My local auto parts store guys didn't know even after I showed them the picture in the manual.
Any and all help is appreciated!

neoworm0

http://toyota.spx.com/

Blurr

by 'camshaft pulleys' i assume you are referring to the sprockets? if so, this will work perfectly: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Camsh...spagenameZWDVW

motobro

I stopped by the local toyota dealer and one of the mechanics showed me a cam gear tool to remove the pulleys or sprockets and a 24 inch chain wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley. Has anyone tried the chain wrench ?
I also went by the place that sold me the rebuilt motor and they suggested leaving the belt on and removing the valve covers to reveal the camshaft and a hex shaped spot on the camshaft about 2/3 of the towards the back of the motor where you can grab it with a large crescent wrench. They usually heat the bolt with a torch first. Comments on this method?

motobro

Has anyone tried the adjustable SST from ZDMAK ?
check out the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...NA:MOTORS:1123

Jeff 05

The crankshaft pulley bolt can be a bear to remove from most Toyota engines to get at the front oil seal, timing cover and oil pump. I finally had an SST made at a local weld/machine shop for $35.00. It works great. Pictures below. A few years ago I replaced the front seal when
I had the cylinder head off to have it reconditioned. At the time I rented a ¾” electric impact wrench for about $15.00 a day. It got the job done. I had tried to get the bolt out by hand to no avail. In the last couple of years the front seal started leaking again. It kept getting worse. Two months ago I tore the truck1988 sr5 4x4 down to replace the seal. Taking it to the shop was not an option. I am disabled from a stroke and a poor man. Even though I have almost no use of my left hand (I was a lefty) I still work on my truck one handed. Even though I live in Knoxville, TN a town of 200,000, I found an electric impact wrench was no longer available to rent. I called every rental store in town. Finally after 4 days I gave up and put it back together. The leak got worse until I was losing a quart every 100 miles. Me truck has over 250,000 miles on it. A week ago my son, who lives here now helped my tear it down to try again. Here is what we tried to remove the stubborn bolt:
Bump starter trick- 18” breaker bar wedged on frame rail. No go. Battery was fully charged.
Cheater bar-(4.5 feet long floor jack handle over breaker bar).No go.

Cheater bar-(4.5 feet long floor jack handle over breaker bar).Wheel chocked. Tranny in 4x4 low. No go.
Cheater bar-(4.5 feet long floor jack handle over breaker bar). I stood on brake while my 24 year old son (strong as a bull) turned bolt. Nope.
Cheater bar-(4.5 feet long floor jack handle over breaker bar). Wedged short ¾” bar of cold rolled steel in driveline. No go. It was apparent my high mileage engine did not have enough compression to resist turning long enough to break bolt loose. I made a drawing to took it to a local shop I have used before. Here it is: Of course, the exact design will have to be customized to the vehicle. The bar is 3/4 cold rolled steel. Very unlikely to bend. I used 1-3/8" socket head bolts to fasten the plate to the pulley. Make sure to make the center hole big enough to allow for the thickness of the socket. That's it. Bar hit ground and keeps pulley from turning.





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[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jeff/Desktop/DSCF0002.JPG[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jeff/Desktop/DSCF0002.JPG[/IMG]

snobdds

I give you an A+ for effort but I hope after 1 yr. he has the motor back together.

motobro

I had an ironworker at a construction site I was at weld a piece of sprinkler pipe on a 8"x8" piece of 1/4 " plate steel. I then had a machine shp drill 4 holes in it that matched the holes on the pulley. I bolt the plate to the pulley and slip a 4' long piece of unistrut over the sprink pipe and brace it against the ground. I then use a breaker bar and it comes right off. I commend you for your one handed wrenching !

OutlawMike

The method using the hex feature on the cam shaft, under the valve cover works well. Just be sure that you put a piece of wood between the wrench and the head so you do not damage the aluminum.

Catlin

Guys, another way to make the removal tools for the cam wheels and the crank pulley is to use wood. You can make what you need in about a half hour. Here's what I wrote in an earlier post about a cam wheel tool:

You will find that taking off the cam wheels is a challenge. They are torqued far more than the 80# called for, even 250-300. That steel tool described above is good if you can fab it. I have had good luck making a tool out of 2 x 6 pine. Use a hole saw at the end of a 2-3 ft piece to drill a socket hole.Then drill 2 holes beside it for 3 inch -3/8 diameter bolts. These stick through the board and will hold the cam spokes firmly. A similar tool can be made for the crank pulley bolt removal. You have to drill 4 holes in the 2 x 6 for it and buy 4 eight mm bolts at the hardware store to screw through the board into the pulley holes. Use the little outer pulley as a template for the holes. Its a lot easier to work with wood. The 2 x 6 easily handles the job. Don't use spruce - too soft.

Brace the free end of the 2 X 6 against the frame or the ground (for the crank pulley). and off they will come. Use it again to torque the bolts back on. It feels good when you make your own tools. Catlin

bugs1961

This has worked well for me for many years: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/

desertRunner3.4L

I have the 5vzfe motor but i still made a home made tool just like "jeff 05 " did. for my removing tool, i think i used 3/16" diamond plate welded to a piece of 2" aluminium conduit and drilled the clearance holes in the right location... I changed my timing belt, the Idler pulley and also the timing belt tensioner on my 3.4L 4runner myself !! took me a day and a half because my truck has the Air Conditioning and the bracket is in the way of removing the tensioner.. I also used the Snap on tool shown below for the 5vzfe.
I know this is different because i think you mentioned that you have the 3vze.

desertRunner3.4L

This might help.. look at the link below.

http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1956

buckz6319

just thought I would throw this one in.....I was scratching my head when I got to the cam sprocket bolts.....so this is what i did.....3/8" linked chain if i remember it is either a 450 or 750 lbs load....I also used this method on my crank bolt last summer when i did a timing belt replacement.....use at your own risk....but it worked for me

tnewman2278

This is the simple tool i made to remove the cam sprocket bolts on my 4runner. Just a 2 foot long piece of 2x4 with a cut up timing belt screwed to the end. I didn't have an old one laying around so I had to suck it up and buy a new one from autozone. $19.99+ tax.

I first put the end of the 2x4 against the sprocket.

Wrapped the belt around the sprocket to get the correct length.

Then cut it into 2 pieces. So I could double up the belt. Makes it stronger.

Then ran a crap load of screws through the belt, along the edge of the 2x4.

Worked like a dream. Check out the pictures for a better idea of what I did.

rworegon

Where's the pictures? No see 'em.

tnewman2278

Hm. They didn't upload. I'll try again.

rworegon

How did you slip it over the cam pulley on the other side that has the rim to the outside?

I actually use a very similar home-made tool for holding flywheels on small engines.

tnewman2278

After i put that "tool" in there, I used a breaker bar with a 4' long piece of chain link fence post as a cheater and it broke the bolts loose with very little effort.

tnewman2278

Removed the screws from one side of the 2x4, wrapped the belt around the sprocket, then screwed them back in. After i broke the first bolt loose, I didn't completely remove it. That way I could use it for a brace for the other sprocket.