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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 12-26-2011, 08:06 PM   #1
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3VZE Throttle Position Sensor

Hey all

I'm a little confused about adjusting the throttle position sensor. When I hook up my ohmmeter to one pair of terminals and adjust it will that make the others adjust right too?
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:00 AM   #2
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The "others" don't adjust. You're testing them for resistance to know whether or not those circuits will carry a correct voltage signal. If there's too little or too much resistance or none at all, the voltage signal will consequently be incorrect (too high, too low, or none at all) and the ECU will detect the throttle plate position incorrectly.

When you're adjusting the throttle sensor, you're setting it to where the ECU will detect the static idle position of the throttle valve/plate. This is the IDL - E2 circuit; IDL terminal being for voltage signal and E2 being the ground. Like any electrical circuit, voltage has to have a ground so the circuit will be complete and voltage can travel.

So, to put it in simple terms, think of it like a contact switch; throttle closed = "IDL" switch is "ON" so far as how the ECU sees it. Throttle open = "IDL" is "OFF". You're merely setting the sensor in the exact spot where the switch contacts will turn on or off in direct accordance with the actual idle position of the throttle plate.

Once the throttle opens, and IDL is off, the ECU then takes throttle position readings from the VTA or "throttle angle" circuit. The signal from VTA tells how far open the throttle is. The other two circuits are VC for voltage supply to the sensor and E2 for voltage ground. Again, none of these have an adjustment. There's no need. Just make sure the resistance is correct once the IDL-E2 adjustment is made.

Hope that helps clear the brain circuits for ya..... If not, and if you want, I'll try again.
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Last edited by thook; 01-02-2012 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:59 PM   #3
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That helps. The only thing I'm still confused about is that in the service manual it says to insert a thickness gauge between throttle stop screw and stop lever then measure the ohms. Then it says if it's wrong unscrew the position sensor and turn it.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:46 PM   #4
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That's correct. If it's not within those specs then it needs adjusted. So what's the part that's confusing you?
Quote:
4. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST THROTTLE POSITION
SENSOR
(a) Loosen the two screws of the sensor.
(b) Apply vacuum to the throttle opener.
(c) Insert a thickness gauge (0.60 mm or 0.024 in.) be–
tween the throttle stop screw and lever, and connect
the ohmmeter to terminals IDL and E2.
(d) Gradually turn the sensor clockwise until the ohm–
meter deflects, and secure the sensor with the two
screws.
(e) Using a thickness gauge, recheck the continuity be–
tween terminals IDL and E2.

Clearance between
lever and stop screw l Continuity (IDL–E2)
0.50 mm (0.020 in.) l Continuity
0.80 mm (0.031 in.) l No continuity
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf
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Last edited by MudHippy; 12-27-2011 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:11 PM   #5
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If you find it hard. May be a quick fix but I would check afterward. My truck have issue with missfiring before so I follow one of the member here about the sensor and all he said is to let your engine idle then open up the sensor from its two four head screw. Not all the way out and move it down or when you hear the engine idle very high than move it slowly back, and when you hear the idle drop. Stop there and screw them back in. I don't know if it is the correct method but It has work out for me so far...
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:21 PM   #6
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It's not a procedure given in the manual, but you're not setting it in a way that's any different than using the feeler gauges. You're simply setting to where the sensor "turns ON"......contact switch/circuit is closed.... when it detects the idle position of the throttle plate. The drop in idle means the ECU is then getting that signal from the throttle sensor. The high idle means the ECU is getting no voltage signal on that circuit...the IDL circuit is open.

It might help to run a google on open and closed circuits to understand that a bit better, for anyone not understanding this.
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Context is everything....
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freckles, shmeckles... that was your acne reflecting on my pearlescent skin.
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Originally Posted by HighLux View Post
Oh...that was me thinking...then stopping mid sentence...then some more babbling and such. LOL
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guardian_Saint View Post
If you find it hard. May be a quick fix but I would check afterward. My truck have issue with missfiring before so I follow one of the member here about the sensor and all he said is to let your engine idle then open up the sensor from its two four head screw. Not all the way out and move it down or when you hear the engine idle very high than move it slowly back, and when you hear the idle drop. Stop there and screw them back in. I don't know if it is the correct method but It has work out for me so far...
I might try this on my 22RE, since I have the TPS adjusted by the book, but I am still getting some jerking in the drive train, when letting off the gas or putting my foot back on the gas. The new TPS took care of 85% of the problem, but it is still there a little.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:20 AM   #8
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^^^^ That sounds like it might be a u-joint seizing, dude.
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Context is everything....
Quote:
Originally Posted by abecedarian View Post
freckles, shmeckles... that was your acne reflecting on my pearlescent skin.
My favorite method of troubleshooting..... :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLux View Post
Oh...that was me thinking...then stopping mid sentence...then some more babbling and such. LOL

Last edited by thook; 01-02-2012 at 08:10 PM. Reason: doodoo s'thpellingous
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thook View Post
^^^^ That's sound like it might be a u-joint seizing, dude.
we looked at them, they seemed ok
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:47 AM   #10
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Looking doesn't always tell you.
Sometimes you have to take the prop shaft off and see if they move smoothly.
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:01 PM   #11
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^^^^ This!

Really, you gotta pull the shaft down and move it by hand. On the vehicle, it can look solid w/grease and feel solid, but there's tension on it. The needle bearings could be toast and you'd have no idea until you pull it down.
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Context is everything....
Quote:
Originally Posted by abecedarian View Post
freckles, shmeckles... that was your acne reflecting on my pearlescent skin.
My favorite method of troubleshooting..... :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLux View Post
Oh...that was me thinking...then stopping mid sentence...then some more babbling and such. LOL
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:29 PM   #12
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OK, THANKS guys, that is why I love this forum, good people and information. I will do that or get it done in the near future. In the process of moving
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Last edited by coops2k; 01-02-2012 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:32 PM   #13
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thook has you going in a great direction as he has a way of doing.

to try and add, your looking for a rather wide resistance range at your idl/e2 check. the trick is to set it and have all other readings within their specified ranges. in my case i did actually have to get pretty precise and say some bad words to obtain this.

so moral of the story is do all checks stated in the manual. they are all important. your idl circuit, and vta's to determine correct resistance at pre-determined throttle openings. take your time. you'll get it
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Old 02-01-2012, 12:00 PM   #14
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I just purchased a new TPS. and I'm trying to get it adjustted now.. however i'm having a real tough time getting my guages between the lever adn stop screw on my 3vze.. any one have any tips? :/ its hard to make out on the Drawings.. but i can't seem to get the right angle
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Old 02-01-2012, 12:00 PM
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