Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

3VZE Running Issues

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-07-2015, 05:40 AM
  #21  
Registered User
 
Shady Cadence's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Franconia Twp. MN
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Okay, when you had the timing cover off, did you verify that your cams and crank are both still in time?
Old 03-07-2015, 01:20 PM
  #22  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Syrus54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: The TRON Grid
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Nope. And I have no idea how to do that.
Old 03-07-2015, 05:12 PM
  #23  
Registered User
 
Shady Cadence's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Franconia Twp. MN
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well then...

Two options.
1) Do a google image search for "3vze timing marks" and find a diagram, take your cover back off and see if all the marks line up like they should, or
2) Defer to a professional.
Old 03-12-2015, 02:45 AM
  #24  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Syrus54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: The TRON Grid
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
OK.. Several Things:

1. Bought a Timing Light, hooked it up, turned it on. The mark on the Harmonic Balancer keeps showing that the Engine's firing 180-out.

I knew this was bullsh˟˟t, because I never messed with the Distributor.
But just for the hell of it, I pulled the cap, and flipped the Rotor 180-degrees.
When I tried to start, it refused to Fire. So obviously it wasnt 180-out.

Anyone know how to find the ACTUAL toyota-factory-made marks on the Harmonic Balancer?
I have 2 drill holes on the back side, and the guide-pin that helps you put the Balancer on the right way, but Nothing else. Am I missing something?

2. I installed a new Timing Belt, engine runs better, but still crappy. Might be off a tooth of the belt?
I'll pull the belt again, and move it 1 tooth counter-clockwise, see how it works, if no improvement, I'll go a tooth Clockwise.


Question for anyone that knows:

The Camshaft Pulleys - When I move them, they dont want to line up with the marks on the Timing Cover.
It feels like the cam is SPRING-LOADED. That's normal, right?

But how do I get them to sit still, on the marks, so I can put the belt on?
Do i just MUSCLE-IT into place?

Last edited by Syrus54; 03-12-2015 at 02:48 AM.
Old 03-12-2015, 03:01 AM
  #25  
Registered User
 
Shady Cadence's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Franconia Twp. MN
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
They feel spring loaded because the cam lobes are opening the valves as you turn it, yes that's normal. Start by putting the belt around the crank sprocket. I'll usually use something to be sure the belt stays on it, either wedge something small between the belt and the bottom of the housing, or some sort of clamp across the sprocket. Dont use anything too brutal, you just need the teeth to stay in the sprocket. Then put a tool on the cam sprocket, turn it into time, place the belt on it and use an office paper binder to hold it on there. (The little spring steel clamps with the two pivoting chrome handles) Then just continue following the belt path until you're on everything, clamp the belt on the other cam if you wish, makes getting the tensioner in easier. When everything is in and lines up, pull all clamping/fixment devices and spin your crank 2x, all your marks should line up again.
Old 03-19-2015, 01:05 PM
  #26  
Registered User
 
Lysdexic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vacuum Leak

All that EGR crap was cut out.
It just added more complication to something that needed to be Simplified.
Plus it took up too much room. I like an Open engine bay, that's easy to work on.
Vacuum hoses went with it, and everything was capped off.
The hole where your vacuum modulator once mounted, (for the EGR)... is a vacuum leak. See arrow on modified photo.

Try plugging it with the original 12mm head bolt?
Attached Thumbnails 3VZE Running Issues-vacuum-leak.jpg  

Last edited by Lysdexic; 03-20-2015 at 02:43 PM.
Old 03-19-2015, 07:42 PM
  #27  
Registered User
 
DuffXLCH3VZE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
if you swamped your air filter did you put a new air filter on and clean out your whole throttle body? holes n all
Old 03-20-2015, 09:43 AM
  #28  
Registered User
 
Gevo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,631
Received 109 Likes on 67 Posts
Originally Posted by Syrus54
OK.. Several Things:

1. Bought a Timing Light, hooked it up, turned it on. The mark on the Harmonic Balancer keeps showing that the Engine's firing 180-out.

I knew this was bullsh˟˟t, because I never messed with the Distributor.
But just for the hell of it, I pulled the cap, and flipped the Rotor 180-degrees.
When I tried to start, it refused to Fire. So obviously it wasnt 180-out.

Anyone know how to find the ACTUAL toyota-factory-made marks on the Harmonic Balancer?
I have 2 drill holes on the back side, and the guide-pin that helps you put the Balancer on the right way, but Nothing else. Am I missing something?

2. I installed a new Timing Belt, engine runs better, but still crappy. Might be off a tooth of the belt?
I'll pull the belt again, and move it 1 tooth counter-clockwise, see how it works, if no improvement, I'll go a tooth Clockwise.


Question for anyone that knows:

The Camshaft Pulleys - When I move them, they dont want to line up with the marks on the Timing Cover.
It feels like the cam is SPRING-LOADED. That's normal, right?

But how do I get them to sit still, on the marks, so I can put the belt on?
Do i just MUSCLE-IT into place?
If your engine was firing 180-degrees out of spec, you wouldn't be able to run it very well much less drive around.

Also, I may be missing something here... but the Rotor does not have an option to install it in more than one configuration. I don't think you can turn it 180 degrees.
Old 03-20-2015, 09:52 AM
  #29  
Registered User
 
bswarm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Some cam gears have a small index hole to put a pin in it to lock it in place when doing the belt. Just make sure you remove it after getting the belt on.
Old 03-20-2015, 07:17 PM
  #30  
Registered User
 
Gevo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,631
Received 109 Likes on 67 Posts
you know what occured to me, when you were checking your timing with the light.. are you Sure you put the induction clip on the wire for the 1st plug? Double check that all the wires are going from correct place on distributor to correct cylinder. Check l
timing again and report.
Old 03-20-2015, 07:21 PM
  #31  
Registered User
 
Gevo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,631
Received 109 Likes on 67 Posts
Also, did you ever adjust your tps properly? If it is to far forward (out of IDL circuit) the engine will run like crap and give you terrible.mileage, much like you explained.
Old 03-23-2015, 03:35 PM
  #32  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Syrus54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: The TRON Grid
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Lysdexic
The hole where your vacuum modulator once mounted, (for the EGR)... is a vacuum leak....
Actually, I dont think anything was ever bolted to that. But i'll cap it anyway, thanks.

Originally Posted by DuffXLCH3VZE
if you swamped your air filter did you put a new air filter on and clean out your whole throttle body? holes n all
Nope.

Originally Posted by Gevo
If your engine was firing 180-degrees out of spec, you wouldn't be able to run it very well much less drive around.
Agreed.

Originally Posted by Gevo
...are you Sure you put the induction clip on the wire for the 1st plug?
Yes. I also found out, during this process, that unlike a Chevy V8, the #1 of a Yota engine is completely backwards by comparrison.
(toyota #1 is Passenger side, closest to the Radiator --- Chevy is Driver side, closest to Radiator)

Originally Posted by Gevo
Also, did you ever adjust your tps properly?
While messing with the Timing light, I was able to turn it a few times, until i found a 'SWEET SPOT', where the engine seemed to run a little better.


.... Anyway, I put on a New Timing Belt, (about 20 times, because it kept jumping a tooth, and I had to start over), but I finally got it all lined up on the Marks, got the Timing belt on, got the Timing light to work right, and I have my engine firing around 5° before TDC.

It still takes a while to start now, and sometimes, the engine smells of gas (under the hood), but it's running a little better.

Still obvious issues, that I'll get fixed in the next couple months, when I take it to the Shop, and see what they say is the culprit.

Last edited by Syrus54; 03-23-2015 at 03:42 PM.
Old 04-13-2015, 12:21 AM
  #33  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Syrus54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: The TRON Grid
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
OK, the truck's in the Shop.

The guy said something about a Vacuum Leak, and that he had to order a fuel vacuum thing, or something... I'll have more/better info in the days to come.
Old 04-16-2015, 10:02 PM
  #34  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Syrus54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: The TRON Grid
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I went down to pick up the truck, guy said it was the Fuel Damper, with is supposed to make the Fuel PULSE, but it had a leak, so instead of Pulsing, it was Full-Spraying into the Engine, non-stop.

I went to pick it up, because he said it was ready. $180 estimate, cost me $510 out of nowhere. He didnt even put Any Gas in the tank, especially for that Price. Needless to say; that guy will not be getting Repeat Business from me.

THEN, I start the truck, and get ready to leave, but the Throttle drops really low. Below 800 rpm. I lightly keep tapping the gas pedal, and the throttle Drops at 1st, then shoots up. I tap, it drops, then goes up. I try to move the Truck, and it dies.

Obviously, i'm super pi$$ed at the guy...

He pulls it back into the shop, and I walk several miles back home. A couple days later, he said he retarded the Distributor (which is the OPPOSITE of what I wanted). I had it close to TDC for a reason...

But, he Claims once again, that it's Ready to go, and I'm gonna pick it up tomorrow.... HOPEFULLY.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So, it's still not running right, it's idling at 600rpm, but atleast the 4mpg crap has been fixed.
The guy did an absolute screw-job to me: Split my Radiator, Drained the Coolant from it and didnt replace it, drained the Battery.....
So now i'm even MORE pi$$ed.....

Anyway, I hope my loss of Money gives you guys a little more knowledge of things that can Break, and cause Idiling Problems with your 3VZEs.

Hope it Helps.

Last edited by Syrus54; 04-20-2015 at 12:19 AM.
Old 12-19-2015, 10:09 AM
  #35  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Syrus54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: The TRON Grid
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
-------------------------------------
I have yet Another Issue with my 3VZE:
-------------------------------------

I pulled the engine to do a new clutch, and I believe I have everything hooked back up, but it refuses to fire.

Can anyone tell me where these 3 wires (on the Drivers Side) go? one is Green with White Stripe, one is Green with Yellow Stripe, and the one with the Black Plug still on it is Yellow with Green Stripe. Thanks in advance for the help

Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bigjstang
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
20
08-25-2021 12:41 AM
icentropy
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
22
09-16-2020 02:47 PM
smiley52
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
8
07-11-2015 05:16 AM
MTLroadierunner
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
0
07-06-2015 12:17 PM
karbin
Newbie Tech Section
1
07-05-2015 11:37 PM



Quick Reply: 3VZE Running Issues



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:16 PM.