3vze rebuild HELP!!!!
#1
3vze rebuild HELP!!!!
Ok so i had head work done and am now put all back together. I got a Set of DT headers but i live in Montana so I am removing all the egr/pair system. I get it to fire with just headers on but it dumps fuel out the headers at an alarming rate. Any suggestions? I havnt put on the O2 sensor yet as im trying to put as little on until its ready, ive had to take plenty ˟˟˟˟ off to get something else on.
Last edited by Mondwa; 05-19-2012 at 12:04 PM.
#2
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Did you connect your fuel return line (#2 in pic) to the charcoal canister, and the charcoal canister vapor line to the fuel return tube?
Last edited by 93toyrunner2; 05-19-2012 at 12:30 PM.
#3
ok so the return line from the #2 spot goes to the canister and then the vacume line goes to the hard line that returns to the fuel? which line is it cause there is two that come up on the back firewall.
Last edited by Mondwa; 05-19-2012 at 12:42 PM.
#4
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Look in my signature for the link to the FSM (Factory Service Manual). Open the FSM and look at the EVAP system, plenty of pics there. As far as #2 goes, the hose comes off #2 and goes directly to a metal fuel line that leads directly back to the tank. The fuel return line is closer to the upper Plenum, and the canister return line is closer to the evap can.
#5
Look in my signature for the link to the FSM (Factory Service Manual). Open the FSM and look at the EVAP system, plenty of pics there. As far as #2 goes, the hose comes off #2 and goes directly to a metal fuel line that leads directly back to the tank. The fuel return line is closer to the upper Plenum, and the canister return line is closer to the evap can.
#6
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lol... I am working on the same issue with the hoses in the wrong place.. I got the right return line and evap line.. its the other lines... gonna look it up in the FSM just incase I can see it from there
my biggest issue is I got rid of the EGR system since mine was making my emissions worse and I dont have air care up here in Canada. Any ideas on bypassing those hoses that go to the EGR systems. I have already blocked off the ones coming from the throttle body.
btw.. 4runner runs great without the egr.. so much more responsive.
my biggest issue is I got rid of the EGR system since mine was making my emissions worse and I dont have air care up here in Canada. Any ideas on bypassing those hoses that go to the EGR systems. I have already blocked off the ones coming from the throttle body.
btw.. 4runner runs great without the egr.. so much more responsive.
#7
I removed all the egr system, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...cation-250923/ . as for all the lines that go from the TB and hard lines under intake. I removed the whole hard line system and routed new lines from the fuel pressure regulator to the red solenoid on the passangers side. AS for all the 1/4 vacume lines i just went to napa and got the pretty plastic plugs.
Ok now i have another prob. I got everything going great but now have a massive leak at the front main. I already tried to replace front main seal and put everything back together just find out it leaks like a _____. I know that i got the seal seated correct. I can not figure it out for the life of me. The only thing i can think of is the heads that i rebuilt have to much compression and are blowing compression into the crank case which inturn is blowing out the front main cause thats the weakest spot.
So after inspecticting it for the third time everything behind the seal looks great to me what u think
Lower side of crank, See the holes? from every pic i can find it looks normal for the oil pump
Top side
Here is what the engine looked like right before i stuck it in
Ok now i have another prob. I got everything going great but now have a massive leak at the front main. I already tried to replace front main seal and put everything back together just find out it leaks like a _____. I know that i got the seal seated correct. I can not figure it out for the life of me. The only thing i can think of is the heads that i rebuilt have to much compression and are blowing compression into the crank case which inturn is blowing out the front main cause thats the weakest spot.
So after inspecticting it for the third time everything behind the seal looks great to me what u think
Lower side of crank, See the holes? from every pic i can find it looks normal for the oil pump
Top side
Here is what the engine looked like right before i stuck it in
Last edited by Mondwa; 05-21-2012 at 12:56 PM.
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#9
hey i need help i blew my crank weight and it dropped and broke my front cap conecters and blew thro my oil pick up line and im wondering whats the best thing to do. im not really wanting to buy a new engine. any advice?
#10
As for mine i got it up and running, After much research and talking to multiple stealerships the seal wasnt going all the way in, removed it and greased it again and this time it slipped right into place. 25 miles so far and shes doing great
#12
That is what i thought but after looking at multiple pics of the oil pump those are the teeth that grab the crank and create pressure in the oil pump. Used some grease on the seal and it slid right in finally. No leaks 40 miles later
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