3vze rear main seal, oem or aftermarket?
07-05-2016, 01:20 AM
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3vze rear main seal, oem or aftermarket?
gday all,
im staring to see a nice little oil patch on my garage floor...its my rear main. i can see it dripping at the bottom of the bellhousing, its also coming out from the slave cylinder dust cover. cant see any trails from higher up.
whats everyones recommendations and experiences with aftermarket vs the oem seal? i called the local yota dealer today and was quoted $100
mines a 92 so i need 90311-92010 (formerly 90311-92006), pre 4/91 models use a slightly larger seal and that is 90311-92004...just a bit of extra info incase someone stumbles across this and needs to know
ive found some seals on ebay, both the oem seal at a better price, and aftermarket...I also found a genuine toyota seal that is listed as 90311-92010 but it doesnt list vzn130 4runners (or any 4runner for that matter) as compatible, but surely toyota wouldnt have the same part number for a different application???.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281374004...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141784367...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281725679...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
all feedback appreciated! if theres any other brands that people have found to be better and/or cheaper, please feel free to chime in. im still feeling that these ones are overpriced.
also wanting to know if someone can please give me a definitive answer on whether the sump gasket can be changed (replaced with silicone/liquid gasket to be more specific) WITHOUT removing the front diff? ive read conflicting information on whether it can or cant be done.
the last thing i want a second speculatory opinion on is whether i should change out the clutch at the same time, and if the heavier flywheels that can be had in marlin crawler kits are beneficial? not sure how many ks r on the current clutch but i do know that oil can ruin the friction plate, and i dare say the rear main has been weeping for a fair while now. again, any preferences to brands for the clutch kit? oem, exedy, clutch industries? also found one that I havnt heard of before, and that is the xtd
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XTD-STAGE...IAAOxy-gBR-Eca
looks pretty good and a reasonable price compared to exedy heavy duty
im staring to see a nice little oil patch on my garage floor...its my rear main. i can see it dripping at the bottom of the bellhousing, its also coming out from the slave cylinder dust cover. cant see any trails from higher up.
whats everyones recommendations and experiences with aftermarket vs the oem seal? i called the local yota dealer today and was quoted $100
mines a 92 so i need 90311-92010 (formerly 90311-92006), pre 4/91 models use a slightly larger seal and that is 90311-92004...just a bit of extra info incase someone stumbles across this and needs to know
ive found some seals on ebay, both the oem seal at a better price, and aftermarket...I also found a genuine toyota seal that is listed as 90311-92010 but it doesnt list vzn130 4runners (or any 4runner for that matter) as compatible, but surely toyota wouldnt have the same part number for a different application???.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281374004...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141784367...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281725679...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
all feedback appreciated! if theres any other brands that people have found to be better and/or cheaper, please feel free to chime in. im still feeling that these ones are overpriced.
also wanting to know if someone can please give me a definitive answer on whether the sump gasket can be changed (replaced with silicone/liquid gasket to be more specific) WITHOUT removing the front diff? ive read conflicting information on whether it can or cant be done.
the last thing i want a second speculatory opinion on is whether i should change out the clutch at the same time, and if the heavier flywheels that can be had in marlin crawler kits are beneficial? not sure how many ks r on the current clutch but i do know that oil can ruin the friction plate, and i dare say the rear main has been weeping for a fair while now. again, any preferences to brands for the clutch kit? oem, exedy, clutch industries? also found one that I havnt heard of before, and that is the xtd
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XTD-STAGE...IAAOxy-gBR-Eca
looks pretty good and a reasonable price compared to exedy heavy duty
Last edited by Turtl3; 07-05-2016 at 01:36 AM.
07-07-2016, 04:09 AM
#3
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Wow they are really high on the rear main seal, retail is approximately 47, with online prices ranging in the 35+/- range.
That is US not sure bout down under.
Cheers
Andy
That is US not sure bout down under.
Cheers
Andy
Last edited by Andy A; 07-07-2016 at 04:14 AM.
07-07-2016, 04:24 AM
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Yeah i couldnt believe it...i really had to bite my tounge when he told me around $100. I ended up buying the 'genuine toyota' one on ebay which has the part number listed on the packaging. Fingers crossed it IS correct.
Still curious to hear peoples thoughts on clutches, and clarification on the sump gasket
Still curious to hear peoples thoughts on clutches, and clarification on the sump gasket
07-07-2016, 07:51 AM
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Hmmm. Replacing the rear seal is not an easy job (the transmission has to come out). And oil leaking ANYWHERE on the engine will work its way to the bottom of the bell housing (gravity at work). I know you looked for trails, but I've seen valve cover gaskets leak in the back leaving only an imperceptible sheen on the way to the bell housing. So before you tackle the big job, I'd get some spray-on engine cleaner and get your engine show-room clean. Then run it and look for the tiniest bit of leakage. You might be (pleasantly) surprised.
If it IS the seal, http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/prod...rm=90311-92010 has it for $35 It's a for-real Toyota dealership in Florida, and I've had good results with them.
If it IS the seal, http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/prod...rm=90311-92010 has it for $35 It's a for-real Toyota dealership in Florida, and I've had good results with them.
Last edited by scope103; 07-07-2016 at 07:53 AM.
07-07-2016, 11:06 PM
#6
My rule of thumb of the transmission comes out a new clutch goes in
With the exceptions being if is within 168 hours or I really know the history and who might have tried to drive it
One idiot and 10 miles of country driving can kill a brand new clutch.
All my stuff has newer clutches but I kinda like the look of the Marlin Crawler clutch.
I would guess shipping is expensive
With the exceptions being if is within 168 hours or I really know the history and who might have tried to drive it
One idiot and 10 miles of country driving can kill a brand new clutch.
All my stuff has newer clutches but I kinda like the look of the Marlin Crawler clutch.
I would guess shipping is expensive
07-08-2016, 03:31 PM
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Yeah shipping is always the biggest killer, sometimes it is cheaper to buy locally, other times its cheaper to buy from overseas even if the shipping is $100.
The wife is starting to get annoyed at how much time and money i am spending on my 'bunky' lol. But if it needs a clutch, then it needs a clutch.
The leaks not coming from the valve covers, heads were redone 10,000ks ago and all gaskets were replaced.
Replacing the rear main doesnt phase me at all. Altho theres some heavy lifting involved, its a very straight forward job.
The wife is starting to get annoyed at how much time and money i am spending on my 'bunky' lol. But if it needs a clutch, then it needs a clutch.
The leaks not coming from the valve covers, heads were redone 10,000ks ago and all gaskets were replaced.
Replacing the rear main doesnt phase me at all. Altho theres some heavy lifting involved, its a very straight forward job.
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07-09-2016, 02:24 PM
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Hahahaha
I think if i said something like that, i would need to make room in the back of the 4runner for a mattress
...and from then on- i wouldnt even be able to afford a simple oil and filter change, because all my money would be going towards child support (alimony).
I think if i said something like that, i would need to make room in the back of the 4runner for a mattress
...and from then on- i wouldnt even be able to afford a simple oil and filter change, because all my money would be going towards child support (alimony).
Last edited by Turtl3; 07-09-2016 at 02:26 PM.
07-10-2016, 08:07 AM
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ive always gone the route of OEM for gaskets and the such. I just did clutch and rear main and I havent had any leaks or issues. I dont see the issue with going aftermarket, as long as the product is installed correctly. that being said its always a safe bet going with the manufacturer spec.
