3vze performance
#1
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3vze performance
wat can i do to get more power out of my 3.slow or who makes performance products for the 3.slow thanks
Last edited by killa b; 12-16-2006 at 09:16 PM.
#5
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hmm https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/3-slow-101920/ still there
#6
If ya wanna keep it real cheap(and simple) and can do it your self...
From what i've read (I'm about to venture into this my self)
Downey headers and over sized valves, and be done with it.Any thing else to me seems to be too much trouble with little gain...
K&N filter replacment seems to have helped me a little currently though
From what i've read (I'm about to venture into this my self)
Downey headers and over sized valves, and be done with it.Any thing else to me seems to be too much trouble with little gain...
K&N filter replacment seems to have helped me a little currently though
Last edited by 4runnermax; 12-16-2006 at 08:16 PM.
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#8
I've read a couple things about cams. Dont really know cost's though i'm going to look into that before i do the rebuild... Porting and polishing is a PITA and if its not done right is totaly worthless (from what I heard in school T-TEN) but then again you could do it right and get a little gain (My question though is would it be worthless over time as dirt surly will get in and ruin your smooth surface... hmm....
The main point of the downey headers is to get rid of the stock exhaust burning up the valves and head gasket, (the central weak point of the 3.0)
It just has the added bonous of more power
The main point of the downey headers is to get rid of the stock exhaust burning up the valves and head gasket, (the central weak point of the 3.0)
It just has the added bonous of more power
#9
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#1 way to get power out of the 3.0 is to
1) Drive downhill
2) Drive with a tailwind
3) Drive downhill while drafting a big rig.
4) Put a hole in the floorboard and use the Fred Flinstone technique.
1) Drive downhill
2) Drive with a tailwind
3) Drive downhill while drafting a big rig.
4) Put a hole in the floorboard and use the Fred Flinstone technique.
#12
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the other thread is gone for whatever reason...mods yall need to read before ya delete...
Ok the 3vze gets a bad rap imo. It is limited to only about 190-195hp whne normally aspirated with every bolt on in the book. When linked to an auto, 90% of the driving public is afriad to rev the engine, and the torque converter doesnt flash till about 2500rpm so of course its not goign to have a lot of guts down low... And lastly its linked to a truck that tips the scales at over 4400lbs most of the time.
So with every NA bolt on in the book the 3vze might equal or marginally beat out a bone stock 5vzfe. An engine many think itself is under powered.
As far as mods to get that extra 30-40hp are going to run you about 1500 to 2000 pending on what and where you get it.
1. Cams - Contact weasy on this board for AWOSOME cams. 400 bux gets you 2x the hp headers will AND 10% better fuel economy. Dyno proven.
2. Oversized Valves from engine builder - These + PNP + headers = 30hp! Add cams and you are at least 15hp higher still.
3. FIPK. On a stock truck will help marginally if in hot weather at sea level. (hot = 95*F+ with 90+% humidity)
4. Jacobs ignition. (The full setup NOT just a coil) This has been dyno proven for 10+ rwhp as well on the top end.
5. 2.25" exhaust, free flowing cat
6. regear
Ok the 3vze gets a bad rap imo. It is limited to only about 190-195hp whne normally aspirated with every bolt on in the book. When linked to an auto, 90% of the driving public is afriad to rev the engine, and the torque converter doesnt flash till about 2500rpm so of course its not goign to have a lot of guts down low... And lastly its linked to a truck that tips the scales at over 4400lbs most of the time.
So with every NA bolt on in the book the 3vze might equal or marginally beat out a bone stock 5vzfe. An engine many think itself is under powered.
As far as mods to get that extra 30-40hp are going to run you about 1500 to 2000 pending on what and where you get it.
1. Cams - Contact weasy on this board for AWOSOME cams. 400 bux gets you 2x the hp headers will AND 10% better fuel economy. Dyno proven.
2. Oversized Valves from engine builder - These + PNP + headers = 30hp! Add cams and you are at least 15hp higher still.
3. FIPK. On a stock truck will help marginally if in hot weather at sea level. (hot = 95*F+ with 90+% humidity)
4. Jacobs ignition. (The full setup NOT just a coil) This has been dyno proven for 10+ rwhp as well on the top end.
5. 2.25" exhaust, free flowing cat
6. regear
#13
My stock v-6 runs pritty hard i'm pritty content (I used to have a 4.6 V-8, I had no prob when I swaped to my 3."Slow" yota) The main diff i noticed was that I didnt get sucked to the back of my seat anymore when i take off.... But what can I say its not a sports car with a huge v-8... It seems to me that way to many people are whiney... You want a 4wd get a 4wd you want lots of power get a sports car not a 4wd
#15
Sry if i sounded offensive to you it was supposed to be focused at 91_4x4runner.
Thats so stupid
Thats so stupid
#16
Registered User
ha! mine with just a FIPK had no issues taking out my now psycho ex girlfriend's civic ex. Honda sucks, kinda like my ex! LoL
But getcha some cams and some header and a nice exhaust. Youll have no issues at all.
But getcha some cams and some header and a nice exhaust. Youll have no issues at all.
#18
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oh yeah another problem is that people put bigger tires on when it was undergeared with 225/75r15s to begin with, then wonder why they have no power and no gas mileage with 31s or 32s or 33s.... grrrr!!
#19
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i have 35 mud terrians and its geared right to and actually ive seen a honda climb a mountainside and its hillarious and its also really hard to reach 65 on a short on ramp