sam_KOR

Hi!
I just replaced intake manifold gasket(lower and upper) because of the horrendous vacuum leak. I replaced a broken thermo switch valve, knock sensor, start injector, all the fuel injectors and their gaskets while I was there. Thankfully, now the vacuum leak is gone and the car starts up with some effort with some gas paddling action.. which possibly related to no power issue..?

Now the problem is that the car revs up nicely and quickly when I just started her up but when the car has been running for a while, the revving up is slow.
Additionally, the car is very sluggish despite the fact that the vacuum leak is minimal. Refer to the videos below:

**Note that in both videos I'm paddling to the metal.
The video below is the revving when the car has been running for a while(2-3minutes)

Below is the revving when the car just started up

Below is the engine view when the car revs up slow and painfully..

Here is how the exhaust sounds at idle (just in case if the cat is clogged. I don't think so but some experienced forum member might be able to tell me that something is wrong with the car by listening to the exhaust)

What would cause these issues(hard to start and slow revs+no power)?
Please help me...

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Kind of a side notice, but looks like your oil pressure gauge is reading nothing, does it come up at all? Could be a major problem if the gauge is working/hooked up.

For the slow rev when warm I'm not real sure what could cause it. Maybe do a compression test cold and warm to see if it is an issue related to the engine vs electrical/sensors?

sam_KOR

Oh for the oil pressure, the plug was out and i didn't even realize that. Thank you!
Could it be the ignition timing being off? I lined up cam timing and crank timing to tdc when I replaced the intake manifold..
I guess when you di mechanical timing, ignition has to accompany?

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Timing can do some weird things some times, but I'm not too experienced in that area, I'm more knowledgeable about atvs and small engines.

Just thinking out loud, but how about your engine coolant sensor? If it is reading too cold, it would make it run extra rich, but I wouldn't think it would make it rev too much different from normal. People drive around with bad O2 sensors all the time dumping gas like crazy.

ZARTT

Slow engine response to the accelerator pedal with the 3VZE engine is exactly the symptom I ran into after reinstalling my distributor.
I had removed it to service my alternator.
If you think that you reinstalled the distributor incorrectly then do the following:
Removing spark plug #1 and ensuring that the engine was on the #1 compression stroke is the first step.
Be careful here, the engine could be sitting with #1 cylinder at the top of the exhaust stroke, everything will seem to line up except the rotor pointer will be pointing exactly opposite the #1 wire position.
Observe that the notch on the dampner pulley is pointing at the ZERO degree mark on the timing indicator on the front cover at this time.
Ensure that the rotor pointer is pointing in the direction of the #1 spark plug connection on the distributor cap also at this time. (approx. 11:00 -12:00 o'clock)
In my case, I had set the distributor back in to the engine 1 gear tooth retarded. It gave exactly the symptoms that you described.
Try moving the gear tooth 1 position CCW, and see if that is a quick fix.
If not, then go through the complete routine described above, and you should be gold.
Good luck
Art.

sam_KOR

Nope, coolant temp sensor is perfect. The sensor reads the temp perfectly and functions nicely on the instrument cluster Thanks though!

sam_KOR

Is this what you are referring to? In that case, yes my distributor thingy(I'm a newbie..) @ #1 cyl TDC is pointing to the right direction..
Oh my god I'm so stressing out about this..