miceal383

Okay, about seven months or so ago my head gasket blew on my 93 Pickup. Since then I have been acquiring arts for the job. I have MLS gaskets, arp studs, oil pump, water pump, knock sensor, timing belt, everything I could think of needing. I have a break this week but the goings been slower than I planned. I'm doen to removing the lower plenum and intake manifold. But I cant seem to find any bolt sequence for removal and installation of the intake manifold at least. Should I use rtv, new washers in the fuel line connections on the rails and upper plenum, I'm running out of time to get this done by the weekend and need a little help. Advice too I suppose. I got remanufactured heads, and they say to install the cam seals, is that part going to be in the standard gasket kit for upper end rebuilds or will I need to get those. Also do I need to remove the crank pulley to change the timing belt, and how should I go about that. I'm used to any small block chevy but this is new territory for me and having spent the money I want to get this all right. thanks.

robertd33

1. the intake is only 13ft-lb, so no sequence is necessary
2. NOOO! rtv does not mix with gas.
3. cam seals depends on the kit you bought. a good one should have included them.
4. you have to take off the pulley to take off the cover to take off the belt.

scope103

You MUST replace the crush washers whenever you open a fuel line. They are definitely one-time-use items. I've only been able to find them at the dealership, but even there they are cheaper than dirt. I would suggest you splurge and get two extras in each of the three sizes you'll use; otherwise you'll drop one (in the grass?) and start cursing.

As miceal383 notes, you have to remove the crank bolt to remove the harmonic balancer to remove the lower timing cover to get to the timing belt. But the crank bolt is in there with (at least) 181 ft-lbs, and the crank itself will turn when you put a wrench on it. So you will need a tool to keep the crank from turning against 200 ft-lbs or so of torque. I (of course) am partial to this one: http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...67timingbe.pdf , but there are plenty of excellent shop-built tools described on this site. (You will also hear the occasional reference to using the starter to remove the crank bolt. Pretty scary, but probably works to get it out. But then how will you get it back in?? You still need to tool; suck it up and do it the right way the first time.)

Doing all of this without the manual will be, uh, challenging. Let me get you started:
http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...67timingbe.pdf

Last, don't rush. Yes, the next time you do this job you'll be experienced, and you might be able to get it done in a weekend. Probably not the first time, though.

miceal383

Thanks for the information. I was beginning to wonder if there was no sequence but didnt want to miss it if there was. I guess there's no way to finish before the weekend without the crush washers, so I'll truck on till I get there. I have a rebuild kit for the injectors also. Thanks for the printable pages on the timing belt procedure. That's something I'm not looking forward to, but oh well. I hope I don't have to do this again. At least not for a long time.

robertd33

get it all
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_90-...l/contents.htm

stefanc

If you don't mind me asking, where did you find the rebuild kit for the injectors?

Also, @scope103 , what are the three sizes in reference to? Does this part have a specific name?

Thanks in advance!

scope103

I liked this injector kit: http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Toyota-4Runner-Kit.html
Unfortunately, there appear to be 2 sizes of pintle caps, and the ones in the set I got were too small.

One email to keith@injector-rehab.com lead immediately to a package with 6 of the "larger" pintle caps. My advice: get at least one injector out first and measure it, then contact the vendor to make sure you get the right size (I have seen other vendors selling sets with TWO pintle caps per kit, so that's one way to get around the issue).

The Fuel Pressure Damper has a larger pair of crush washers, the CSI has a smaller pair, and the rest of the connections have the middle size. Use this diagram to figure it out http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/show...rimLevel=18292 -- it has all the part numbers, and this Florida dealer had much better prices than my local brick-and-mortar dealer (but don't forget the cost of shipping).

If you're to the point of rebuilding injectors, you will probably learn that the electrical connectors have dried out so that the push-tab has broken. Nothing is holding the connector on the injector. You can buy connectors with "pigtails" that you laboriously solder to the existing wires (don't forget shrink-tubing), but the better way is get the connector kits that you crimp onto the existing wires and stuff into new connector bodies. Something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Denso-Female...-/301919392051

stefanc

Thank you for the wealth of information. I have yet to get a look at them. I recently bought my 4Runner ('95), so I am not sure of there condition. I'm getting a code 52 so I'll be replacing the knock sensor pig tail as the previous owner supposedly replaced the HG but probably failed to replace the wire.

So as the minimum I plan on replacing the O-Ring (23290E in the assembly drawing). Do you have any other recommendations for someone who is about to take the plenum and intake off for the first time?

Thank you for your help in advance!