Ebin

Where is the valve located on a 95. I can't find any such animal per the Haynes manual diagram. Also, if it were bad, what symptoms would it cause? Bad, meaning stuck open and stuck closed or maybe something else. Could this problem cause oil to be sucked in from the driver side valve cover into the TB, or cause oil to accumulate into the large plastic elbow in the air intake hose? Nothing's ever easy for me!

When I back off the fast idle screw it seems to run better. And the RPM's fluctuate when adjusting the screw, when according to the Haynes manual when the engine warms up, this screw won't affect the RPM's.

TNRabbit

got pics of what you're talking about?
R U talking about this?



or are you talking about the Idle Air Control Valve?

Ebin

Sorry for the delay TNRabbit (hope you can help a fellow Tennesseean -near Dandridge). Here are some pics that should shed some lite. The first pic is the actual fast idle screw I've been adjusting. The next two pics show the screw to adjust and what the Air Valve actually looks like (according to the Haynes Manual). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TNRabbit

I have no idea what the manual is referring to. That idle control on the '94 is the idle adjust, period. I have no idea what the second manual photo is. i don't think I have that on my engine. Are you sure that manual isn't for the 3.4 engine??

There are three adjustments for idle on the 3.0. One is the cold idle (shown in my first pic above, the second is the idle up valve for idleing the engine up a couple hundred rpms when the A/C compressor kicks in, and the third is the screw you are talking about which sets the warm idle for the engine.

kmcc78240

Quick Hijack

TNRabbit
When my AC compressor kicks in and I am idling The engine stumbles (drops about 200 RPM) is that something with the idle up valve?

Ebin

TNRabbitt, the idle screw in my first and second pic is labeled as the cold idle adjustment screw in my Haynes Manual. Is my Haynes Manual FUBAR? One more item to add. I had been hearing a somewhat loud ticking sound (from within vehicle) just behind the Tach. At first I blew it off as Tach going bad(because RPM's would jump around about 500-2000 RPMs). Then I thot it mite be fuel injectors. I replaced all fuel injectors. After I replaced distributor yesterday I could still hear ticking sound and vacuum leak, so I stuck my head up in there and it sounded like it was coming from the area on the back of the intake manifold where the the temp. sending unit and the BVSV are mounted. That piece that mounts on the intake manifold in the back, under the plenum, next to the back of driver side camshaft.

TNRabbit

kmcc78240: You need to adjust the idle up for your compressor kick in; very simple to do. It is a plastic screw that looks like a 3/4' bolt with a flat screwdriver slot in it....should be on the left side of the engine as you're looking at it from the front. Turn the A/C on then turn the idle up to @ 950-1000 rpms while the compressor is on. It will drop back down to normal when the compressor switches off.

Ebin: Tick is PROBABLY a fuel injector; very common. the vacuum leak could be many things; there are a ton of vacuum hoses. To confirm location, take an UNLIT propane torch & run it along all the vacuum lines until the engine idles up...that is your vacuum leak location.

Ebin

TNRabbit, thats the messed up part, the only vacuum hose back there is the one from the BVSV to the TB. Could this be a bad TB?

TNRabbit

Bad Throttle Body??? I guess you COULD have a leaking gasket between the Plenum & manifold or TB & Plenum...??

Ebin

No, no leak at gaskets. By bad TB I was thinking more along the lines of blockage inside one of the small passageways in the TB.

TNRabbit

I wouldn't think that would be very common, and I don't think it would cause your problem.

JEBSR5

Oil sucked in where you are describing is normal. A small amount will be pulled in, crappy design to me. Front screw you show in 1st pic is warm/cold idle adjustment.
The IAC is bottom middle/right of TB with coolant hose on it. It can affect idle somewhat. If you have a lot of gunk in your TB, it's possible to get some down the air hole to IAC. I took mine off and cleaned TB and flushed the air hole out in IAC inside TB and flushed coolant area also when off.

I could be wrong, but my theory is the IAC will let engine idle higher when cold and as the IAC heats up the idle drops. So I guess cold it's letting more air in and warm is letting less air. I may have that backwards, still trying to figure mine out. Your AC adjustment is on passenger fender well, I beleive.

That's the way it seems to work to me as mine idles around 1k rpm under 70 outside temp and idles at 800 rpm 80 above outside temp. This is regardless of how many miles I drive for 70 temps, as I drive 26 miles and it's still at 1k when I pull in. Later in the day when temp is 80 or better it drops to 800 rpm fairly quick after a few miles.

Go figure.

Ebin

Thanx JEBSR5

spainobain1234

OKay but I have a ratteling noise coming from behind my engine against the firewall and it is only when I start it up. It goes for 5 minutes until the 4runner is warm. I felt the thickest hose located behind the engine underneath the intake manifold and above the lower engine block and the thick tube was vibrating a large amount of presssure extremely fast. It does not sound good it sounds like an exhaust leak from a vacuum hose. Also, the thermo vacuum valve (TVV) has two disconnected hoses that won't plug into it because the previous owner cracked the TVV plug ins off. My 4runner has this on and off problem where it loses power above 25mph like it will not accelerate sometimes and then when I floor it, it constantly remains the same speed and will not go any faster ... PLEASE HELP

bluAM2

Ebin, I realize this is about 4 1/2 years late, but did you fix that air valve problem? I'm having similar questions and am having to play with the TB Idle screw as well. Hearing a lot of air flow by and I feel like I'm losing some power from it.

JohnVH

Id like to lower my cold idle speed, when it warms up it idles nice and low, but takes a long time to come down from 1500

bluAM2

bump bump bump

bluAM2

bumpity bump bump

5runner

bump

bluAM2

Still no takers huh? Thinking about removing mine altogether